Inverter Welder

[a111r]

Anyone recommend a welder for car bodywork that doesn't break the bank?

A small blue Clarke transformer MIG goes down to 25 Amps, so they work 'well' on car bodies.

They're also pretty reliable, as DIY machines go. Used ones are usually easily refreshed, even when they look like scrap (and are therefore very cheap).
I often buy such examples for £20 to £30.

 

[eddie49]

Nice machine BUT blow holes in my test piece door even with the amps lowered right down, very disappointed whoever manages to weld metel around 1mm thick with these must have some serious skills.

I use the stop/start technique on 1mm and less....doing weld runs won't work usually.

Yes, but I think you mean with a MIG, whereas the OP has a 120A MMA ( Arc ) set.

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Yes, but I think you mean with a MIG, whereas the OP has a 120A MMA ( Arc ) set.

Arc welding 1mm steel, surely not?...that would take quite some skill indeed.

 

[a111r]

Arc welding 1mm steel, surely not?...that would take quite some skill indeed.

People used to do it, very likely quite badly, when there was no viable DIY car welding alternative in the 60's/70s.
Commonly found was disguised pop rivetted tin can patches, newspaper, body filler and fibreglass.

 

[E T]

Arc welding 1mm steel, surely not?...that would take quite some skill indeed.

Or an MMA inverter with pulse like EWM Pico puls or Fronius Transpocket.
Pic below is of a few test runs with the Fronius Transpocket 180.
1mm sheet
1.6mm 6013 rod
40A at 2Hz pulse DCEN
Arcforce @5%
The one hole you see is from when I was still dailing in and had the arcforce to high.

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Or an MMA inverter with pulse like EWM Pico puls or Fronius Transpocket.

Good to know its achievable with a good machine and the right rods....but thats a big budget MMA. I almost bought the Transpocket 150 but it didn't have the same features as the 180 and I just couldn't stretch to the 180 (hobby use)

 

[E T]

Same welds. Penetration at the back.

 

[E T]

Good to know its achievable with a good machine and the right rods....but thats a big budget MMA. I almost bought the Transpocket 150 but it didn't have the features on the 180 and I just couldn't stretch to the 180 (hobby use)

That pulse function makes a big difference. Before I had to stick to very short welds to avoid blowing holes.
Now with pulse and adjustable arcforce I can run 1 whole electrode without blowing holes.
Mind You, this was on solid sheet. I haven't tried a butt weld on 1mm yet. That would make it a bit more challenging.

 

[Leo182]

I think what i'm reading into this is it cant be done unless you are a. skilled and b. you buy a serious machine!

 

[a111r]

Have a look at all the cheap inverter MIGs - Uptime, Sherman, latest generic brand..

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

That pulse function makes a big difference. Before I had to stick to very short welds to avoid blowing holes.

In the end I bough the Paton VDI 250P which is a power supply that can be used for DC TIG, MMA and MIG....has pulse adjustments but haven't had a chance to play with the welder yet.

For thin steel you ideally need a MIG...if the budget is tight have a look at the ROHR and Blackline...a few people on here have those. But factor in gas/regulator. I have the Kemppi evo 200...awesome welder ....awesome price!

 

[Munkul]

Sorry Leo mate, you should have asked before you bought.... for what you're trying to do and the budget you have, you would have been directed towards a MIG welder with gas. It's the only sensible way, really.

 

[Hood]

Aye, like everything there is a tool for the job and a normal stick welder is not the one for 1mm steel. As has been mentioned a pulse stick can do it but the cost of that is beyond the cost of a suitable mig.
I have a pulse stick but not really had a chance to mess with it much so far, I did however try it out with some 1.6mm stainless rods and the difference was night and day. With the standard stick welder the rod would burn ferociously and get red hot and if not careful would fall to bits. With the pulse the rod doesn't glow at all and burns off at a nice pace making it easy to use.

 

[Leo182]

Sorry Leo mate, you should have asked before you bought.... for what you're trying to do and the budget you have, you would have been directed towards a MIG welder with gas. It's the only sensible way, really.

I agree, I did dive in before I uncovered this place! I basically took an amazon review for every word!!

It's a nice machine so will keep it, on the look out for a car body one now!

 

[Leo182]

In the end I bough the Paton VDI 250P which is a power supply that can be used for DC TIG, MMA and MIG....has pulse adjustments but haven't had a chance to play with the welder yet.

For thin steel you ideally need a MIG...if the budget is tight have a look at the ROHR and Blackline...a few people on here have those. But factor in gas/regulator. I have the Kemppi evo 200...awesome welder ....awesome price!

I just checked that out but bit out of my budget!!!

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

I just checked that out but bit out of my budget!!!

Yea they're very expensive...the Kemppi is synergetic which means its preprogrammed. So all I do is tell the machine I'm welding steel (say 1mm) and it sets itself up....very handy for a beginner....just point and shoot basically.

The Blackline/ROHR are a lot cheaper and seem to get good feedback on here.

Definitely keep the stick welder....they are very handy for welding 3mm+ steel for sure.

 

[Normmoore]

I'm guessing this might be for regions where there is no earth connection in the plug?

If there is an earth in the plug just use a continuity tester to double check that the case is connected to the plug ....thats what I would do.

It’s just a extra safety thing