As per my other post, is it? Ive still got a copper radiator. Is the red compatible?
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As per my other post, is it? Ive still got a copper radiator. Is the red compatible?
My understanding was that red will cause issues with other components in old systems, so same understanding as you.
MetalMonkey
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You can actually test coolant and brake fluid with a multimeter to read how many volts are being produced by the reaction of the materials in the system - essentially it acts like a battery.
Copper in a system will react badly with aluminium.
Copper in a system will react badly with aluminium.
graffian
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As far as I know it was all green and all mixed last time I had anything to do with the stuff.
I wanted to top up the antifreeze in my bike, probably only lost a few CCs when removing carbs.
It had green antifreeze in it, so I went to buy some, geezer tred to blind me with initilisations.
I took from his waffle, the colour doesn't have to mean anything, the chemistry for iron and aluminium coolants is different
and the seals on car and motorbike pumps can be different. He waffled like a politician when I asked about ali/iron engines
or aluminium rads on iron engines.
I wanted to top up the antifreeze in my bike, probably only lost a few CCs when removing carbs.
It had green antifreeze in it, so I went to buy some, geezer tred to blind me with initilisations.
I took from his waffle, the colour doesn't have to mean anything, the chemistry for iron and aluminium coolants is different
and the seals on car and motorbike pumps can be different. He waffled like a politician when I asked about ali/iron engines
or aluminium rads on iron engines.
Smallfry
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The colour is not universal to all suppliers apparently. From what I have read, OAT (red) "does not protect copper and brass", but is that the same as not compatible ?
I have been using it in most of our stuff including tractors with copper radiators for several years, with no problems that I know of. Most copper rads fail due to impact damage, or the finning rotting away, which is not in contact with the coolant in any case.
I have used Prestone yellow stuff, which according to them is long life and universally compatible in our mini digger (Iron engine, copper rad). No problems with that either when I put it in a Freelander.
Does the Stag have ali heads ? All the things I have here that do, OAT is the recommended stuff but of course they all have ali rads. I have got a few Rover V8 engines here that have corroded waterways, they were all run on blue. The only one that hasn't got corrosion was run with OAT (red)
Also got a 1990 Lexus V8 engine All ali) that was run on oat, and the waterways look like brand new.
If it were mine, I would run it on OAT, or maybe find out a bit more about the Prestone yellow. Whichever you buy, get the ready mixed stuff, it is not much more expensive, and is NOT made with tap water.
I have been using it in most of our stuff including tractors with copper radiators for several years, with no problems that I know of. Most copper rads fail due to impact damage, or the finning rotting away, which is not in contact with the coolant in any case.
I have used Prestone yellow stuff, which according to them is long life and universally compatible in our mini digger (Iron engine, copper rad). No problems with that either when I put it in a Freelander.
Does the Stag have ali heads ? All the things I have here that do, OAT is the recommended stuff but of course they all have ali rads. I have got a few Rover V8 engines here that have corroded waterways, they were all run on blue. The only one that hasn't got corrosion was run with OAT (red)
Also got a 1990 Lexus V8 engine All ali) that was run on oat, and the waterways look like brand new.
If it were mine, I would run it on OAT, or maybe find out a bit more about the Prestone yellow. Whichever you buy, get the ready mixed stuff, it is not much more expensive, and is NOT made with tap water.
The stag does indeed have ali heads. And a copper rad by design. And heater cores and associated plumbing.
The internet would have you believe putting OAT into system with copper is a disaster. Hard to know the actual truth
It is of course true that alloy heads of the era used to corrode badly, but it was also an era when coolant was seen as a bit of an optional extra, which was always going to cause issues.
What to do????????????????????????????????????
addjunkie
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Thats in effect distilled water rather than deionized.
Distilled water has been boiled to create purified water free of contaminants and impurities like chlorine and dissolved solids. Deionized (DI) water, like distilled water, is also very pure. Where they differ is that deionized water is water that has had all the dissolved mineral particles removed from it
The main difference between distilled water, dehumidifier condensate, and deionised water, is their method of preparation. The actual composition of the three types of water is broadly similar, in percentage terms (i.e. greatly reduced), compared to typical tap water. The highest purity water is usually considered to be the product of cascading the processes i.e. passing distilled water through a fresh ion exchange resin column, with an additional step of passing through a charcoal filter, to reduce the concentration of non-ionic organic contaminants. Water of the highest purity would typically be used for the most exacting analytical chemistry techniques. It's doesn't really matter which water type is used in cooling systems. The coolant additive will be the most important part, coupled with the design of the system, particularly how dissimilar metal components are kept electrically separate from each other.
Seadog
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Minerals do not evaporate. At least not at the temperature required to evaporate water. Ergo, distilled water has no mineral content.
I've always worked on the theory that as soon as I shove de-ionised water into a car engine, it agressively gains ions and is no longer de-ionised - so my antifreeze simply gets mixed with tap water. Over three decades of doing so, nothing has corroded away yet - and I've own four of my vehicles for 20 yrs, all them older than that.
Greeves246
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Back in the 60s we used distilled or cooled boiled water ( hard water area) as all batteries had screw tops for topping up but last job all bike batteries were sealed. Used to sell little tablets that were dropped into each cell that were supposed to remove sulphate from the plates way back. How many new cars have batteries that are not sealed?
Smallfry
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Water is very hard here, and tap water ruins kettles and washing machines quite quickly through limescale, so surely this would form in the engine cooling system ? If I look in the bottom of the windscreen washer reservoir it is there too.
Even get limescale buildup in the toilet pan, which is obviously not heated, so how does that happen ?
Why is boiler condensate acidic ? Surely it should be pure, like dehumidifier condensate ?
I guess filling your cooling system only uses ONE fill of water, and there will only be a small amount of whatever in it, if you are constantly topping up, like in the old days, would be a problem. I still only use ready mixed though.
The acidity in gas boiler condensate comes from dissolved CO2 (carbonic acid), on top of which the products of combusion include SO2, from the odorants, which are sulphur-containing molecules in most cases, giving sulphurous acid. There are also sulphur-based impurities in kerosene, so the same happens with oil burning boilers.
During distillation, the boiling water throws up a fine mist of droplets, which still contain the dissolved minerals, and this mist drifts, carried along by the steam, and ends up in the condensate. The best quality distilled water comes from stills which have baffles before the condenser, to try and trap this mist, but even those don't achieve 100% efficiency in mist removal. Double distillation also reduces the impurity levels in the resulting water.
Greeves246
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So triple distilled Jameson Irish Whiskey is really pure? Not that I would top up batteries with it.
