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indy4x
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Ah, Trooper, same front suspension as the Frontera in my avatar pic
That had just under a 4" lift on the front, Calmini top arms from the USA, top ball joint moved under the top arm plus a 10mm spacer and a diff drop to get the driveshafts back to a sensible angle
Generally as you lift them you get more negative camber, I didn't worry too much about the castor, just get the camber back to a sensible setting
If you have lifted the rear (I'm assuming its on coils) then your axle will have also moved off centre
rcx132
Philip
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Yes that's what I thought, the rear panhard will have moved the rear axle sideways, so I was surprised that Kwikfit told me that the thrust angle is perfect. I was thinking of making an adjustable panhard to compensate but looking at it today, the panhard is very long and near horizontal so I doubt the axle has moved more than half a centimetre.
AVI_8
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That was my thought until I found out it was a modified and raised 4x4 which has added complications, it will need the geometry set up correctly before going for a final alignment.
rcx132
Philip
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Sorry yes you're right, theres shim already there, I can remove some.
AVI_8
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Oh well that’ll definitely help, 4 inch lift is a lot for a car which still goes on the road but removing the shims will reduce the camber for sure.
Im not familiar with your vehicle type and I don’t know the components on the lower mounts. But have a look to see if you can get an aftermarket adjustable lower mount which could increase your camber angle to bring it back to where it should be if removing the shims on the upper mount is not enough.
Having suspension which is raised is great for off roading, not so great if you spend a lot of time on the road.
indy4x
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AVI_8
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Ok well I’m not really familiar with your setup, I’m more into cars.
But you’ve already established that there’s no problem with your castor.
So removing the shims will reduce your camber, once you’ve removed the shims get the camber checked.
And if it’s still negative try to see if there’s any aftermarket kit you can get to reduce it further, when the shims have gone from the top mounts, the only way you’re going to increase the camber from there is a (possible) aftermarket kit to increase the camber from the lower mounts
But you’ve already established that there’s no problem with your castor.
So removing the shims will reduce your camber, once you’ve removed the shims get the camber checked.
And if it’s still negative try to see if there’s any aftermarket kit you can get to reduce it further, when the shims have gone from the top mounts, the only way you’re going to increase the camber from there is a (possible) aftermarket kit to increase the camber from the lower mounts
123hotchef
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Very similar to the Older L200 and shoguns I.play with.
AVI_8
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BeJesus, that’s a lot of shims, I’m guessing that the big ones are for the camber and the small ones for the castor, you’re basically going to have to get the correct geometry through trial and error.
Get yourself to a professional alignment centre if you don’t have the gauges, a centre which has a Hunter alignment system would be my preferred option. Or something similar.
AVI_8
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Unfortunately correct alignment is not cheap once you add extreme geometry changes which is what you have with + 4 inches.
As I mentioned it can be a lot of man hours to get it correct, its trial and error getting it correct, not necessary for off roading but if you drive a lot on the road, you’ll need correct alignment or tyre wear will be excessive.
But the good thing is that with basic tools you can get it to a ballpark by using trial and error to get it as near as you can before going to get it finally aligned by the people with the accurate gauge who cost money.
An accurate angle gauge will give you your camber to a ballpark for starters if you know what you’re doing.
As I mentioned it can be a lot of man hours to get it correct, its trial and error getting it correct, not necessary for off roading but if you drive a lot on the road, you’ll need correct alignment or tyre wear will be excessive.
But the good thing is that with basic tools you can get it to a ballpark by using trial and error to get it as near as you can before going to get it finally aligned by the people with the accurate gauge who cost money.
An accurate angle gauge will give you your camber to a ballpark for starters if you know what you’re doing.
frank horton
V twins are great but 4"s rule.........
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Was it all worth it. .?
we lived on a farm for 16 years with very rough tracks and my standard trooper didn’t flinch…
my only let down was the tyres, hard to get a good compromise for road and mud…
it"s all different if ur car is a toy…
we lived on a farm for 16 years with very rough tracks and my standard trooper didn’t flinch…
my only let down was the tyres, hard to get a good compromise for road and mud…
it"s all different if ur car is a toy…
Trevorleach
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They used to do that with the volvo trucks 20 years ago to cure tyre wear issues on the nsf.
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