That's where they all are.
It's a double pulley. I don't do inches so Larger diameter is 212mm or 8 and 2 and a half 8ths of an inch?? Smaller diameter is 185mm or 7 and 2/8 of an inch. Bore is 3/4 inch.
- Thread starter jimbo84
- Start date
It's a double pulley. I don't do inches so Larger diameter is 212mm or 8 and 2 and a half 8ths of an inch?? Smaller diameter is 185mm or 7 and 2/8 of an inch. Bore is 3/4 inch.
Largest I have with a 3/4" bore is a heavy cast steel/iron pulley 185mm o/d. The i/d appears slightly oversized so needs reboring, making it not a lot of good to you. Apart from that I have several other 7" aluminium picador pulleys, probably 5/8" bore.
Two single groove pulleys, bored and keyed, slide on shaft to align, bolt together, with spacers between webs if needed?
The 185 OD pulley works out 180 PCD for an A-type belt (1/2" across top of the pulley vee?) and is standard.
The 212 OD isn't standard in my old Fenner book - a PCD of 212 is, but that is an OD of 218. Nearest size under is 200 PCD, 206 OD.
For my own use, and having taken the Yorkshire mode of deep pockets, short arms to heart (ie tight), I might be tempted to try a machined disc that sits tight over the hub, hub cleaned up as needed, one on each side, bolted together through the web, either the existing holes, or new ones. Relying on the new discs to keep the hub intact, and aligned to the web, working on the theory the drive will still be transmitted as the cracked bits are still physically engaged with each other.
The 185 OD pulley works out 180 PCD for an A-type belt (1/2" across top of the pulley vee?) and is standard.
The 212 OD isn't standard in my old Fenner book - a PCD of 212 is, but that is an OD of 218. Nearest size under is 200 PCD, 206 OD.
For my own use, and having taken the Yorkshire mode of deep pockets, short arms to heart (ie tight), I might be tempted to try a machined disc that sits tight over the hub, hub cleaned up as needed, one on each side, bolted together through the web, either the existing holes, or new ones. Relying on the new discs to keep the hub intact, and aligned to the web, working on the theory the drive will still be transmitted as the cracked bits are still physically engaged with each other.
Thanks for having a look, shame there wasn't anything that would match up.
Thanks for the info. I've gone for A size belt. Measured the belt at 11mm but it's old so guessing it's worn down a bit. Measuring the widest part of the v on the pulley gives 1/2 inch.
The solution I've gone for is a single pulley sized for the slower speeds. Costs/amount of use this seemed the best solution and the slower speeds will help with the motor struggling a bit with the higher speeds.
The original shaft seems flared/mushroomed ever so slightly at each end which is why I think the pulleys have split originally. I've gone for a taper lock bush in the hope it'll give me enough breathing room to get it on the shaft, time will tell.
The original shaft seems flared/mushroomed ever so slightly at each end which is why I think the pulleys have split originally. I've gone for a taper lock bush in the hope it'll give me enough breathing room to get it on the shaft, time will tell.
Do you want a 3 phase motor? You could then run it at above 50hz if you need extra speed?
That's something I'll look at in the future. At the moment the costs of the inverter/motor I probably can't justify.
Cheap vfds are available. And I have several used 3 phase motors.
Taken a while, a house move and family time has put this at the bottom of the list. Managed to get some time today and the lathe is back up and running again.
The existing belt is a little short, it goes on but is so tight the motor can't start. I've reversed the pulley so it's on the small side to give the belt a bit more slack and it's running.
The grub screw holes were somehow obstructed at the ends so the grub screws wouldn't go in and only having metric taps they got tapped out to M6 but lacking M6 grub screws some long M6 screws went in.
Happy to have it running again and I'll source a longer belt and some grub screws.
The existing belt is a little short, it goes on but is so tight the motor can't start. I've reversed the pulley so it's on the small side to give the belt a bit more slack and it's running.
The grub screw holes were somehow obstructed at the ends so the grub screws wouldn't go in and only having metric taps they got tapped out to M6 but lacking M6 grub screws some long M6 screws went in.
Happy to have it running again and I'll source a longer belt and some grub screws.
