sako243
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- 3,514
- Location
- My mansion in Wales
I'd fifth (or sixth whatever we're on) that if those DTCs and clicking relays are the only issues you have then a new battery is on the cards.
I've owned modern Range Rovers for the last 10 years or so and anytime there's a load of lost communication errors it has always been the battery. Putting them on chargers / reconditioners has only prolonged the inevitable by maybe one or two weeks in my experience. The only way to really test it is to dump a big load across it and measure the voltage profile when doing so. All it needs is for the supply to drop momentarily and brown out some ECUs (their internal power supplies dip briefly to the point of restarting) and you get lost comms errors. Unfortunately that's all that the ECU can actually log with any certainty - for it to diagnose it further automatically would introduce a whole level of complexity to it that's unnecessary.
When you try to start it for the first time after being on charge give it the best chance if you don't want to fork out for a new battery and connect jump packs, extra good batteries etc. I've honestly not had much luck with that method and find simply replacing the battery most cost effective. That battery might still be usable for less sensitive items (in my instance a diesel compact tractor or auxiliary batteries on the 110).
I've owned modern Range Rovers for the last 10 years or so and anytime there's a load of lost communication errors it has always been the battery. Putting them on chargers / reconditioners has only prolonged the inevitable by maybe one or two weeks in my experience. The only way to really test it is to dump a big load across it and measure the voltage profile when doing so. All it needs is for the supply to drop momentarily and brown out some ECUs (their internal power supplies dip briefly to the point of restarting) and you get lost comms errors. Unfortunately that's all that the ECU can actually log with any certainty - for it to diagnose it further automatically would introduce a whole level of complexity to it that's unnecessary.
When you try to start it for the first time after being on charge give it the best chance if you don't want to fork out for a new battery and connect jump packs, extra good batteries etc. I've honestly not had much luck with that method and find simply replacing the battery most cost effective. That battery might still be usable for less sensitive items (in my instance a diesel compact tractor or auxiliary batteries on the 110).