No i meant what i said 2/3/4 fix the main one to the wall put a levelling leg on the end of no 2 level it up put a levering leg on no 3 1/3 is level drop no 4 in.
- Thread starter nitram
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No i meant what i said 2/3/4 fix the main one to the wall put a levelling leg on the end of no 2 level it up put a levering leg on no 3 1/3 is level drop no 4 in.
Why the different cuts on 2 and 4 and the ends of 3 not the same as the piece bolted to the wall ? You have one resting on top which makes sense as it will hold itself in place and one hung underneath so it needs support which doesn't make sense to me. Cut 3 same as the wall plate and level it up then drop the sides on it to weld them
The structure is raised up about 1ft i can fix the main one to the wall then fix 2 with a levelling leg on the end where 3 goes levelling leg on the end of no 3 no 4 drops in place, i am working with 4 and 3 mtr lengths of heavy 100x100 box section doing it this way it supports itself as mentioned i am working alone.
No not necessary the plastic windows would still go up in flames before the box section.
cocker
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I misunderstood , thought you was using 2,3,4 to square it up .
Westfield-builder
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Isn't that 3,4,5 for forming a
square/right angle ?
square/right angle ?
Yes it is i will measure inside corner to opposite outer corner to square it up.
Hi i did a little work on this project this afternoon drilled the holes for the section that bolts to the wall and cut a couple of half laps out,
The drilling was a bit of a pain i didn't have a roto brooch cutter the correct size for the smaller hole so i had to keep swapping to the normal chuck anyhow a few pictures for anyone who is interested, i am pleased with the half butt nice easy welds for a joiner by trade.
The drilling was a bit of a pain i didn't have a roto brooch cutter the correct size for the smaller hole so i had to keep swapping to the normal chuck anyhow a few pictures for anyone who is interested, i am pleased with the half butt nice easy welds for a joiner by trade.
angellonewolf
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would it not be better to leave this bit in so it rests on the metal at the bottem as well
that way you can weld the top edge and the bottem edge ?
that way you can weld the top edge and the bottem edge ?
Westfield-builder
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And the same on the other piece of steel, just to the left and slightly above the red marks. This would also box in the end of both box sections.
Sorry, adding squiggles is beyond me.
Sorry, adding squiggles is beyond me.
angellonewolf
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like that ?
Westfield-builder
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That's it, exactly. Good man 
No one bit fits to the wall so pointless the side will have cladding over it, if i did leave the side in it will cockle nothing wrong with what i am doing thanks for your input if i need help i will ask.
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Windy Miller
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Didn’t you start this thread by asking for help?
Yes i did what part of it is misleading ??
Then my question was answered :-)
Windy Miller
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Ok. Crack on then
Thank you, as mentioned my only concern was a strength issue on the half lap joints, then i decided to document the project documenting the project wasn't a cry for help but as mentioned thanks for your input if i need help i will shout up.
Hi would this be suitable for protecting welds from rust please https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-red-oxide-metal-primer-undercoat-750ml/947fg
Also do you think just welding the top and inside would be sufficient bearing in mind the structure is more/less self standing thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Dcal
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Without knowing the load it's taking it's hard to say.
Also how good is your welding and what kit are you using.
If you went with @Welderpaul advice you would be putting twice as much weld on it so you have twice the chance of getting it right, same goes with miters where you have two and a bit times as much weld.
If you are not confident of your welding go with @angellonewolf advice and fill the open ends which will really help.
Don't take this the wrong way but the reason I'm asking saying about the load is I don't know the situation and even if I did I'm not an Structural Engineer.
However the load will depend on the size, wind load , snow loads, what the roof is made of, how it ties into the house, how and where the box is supported, if the floor is supported on the box as well, what's the floor is made of etc.
If the floor is supported on the box and you have a party and have 20 blokes pogoing along to the latest hits, the load can be quite surprising.
This might seem quite flippant but it's just some of the things a structural engineer would need to consider.
What I'm saying is if you are not sure put plenty on, if you are not sure of your welding come back with details of the kit you have and you will get advice on your best options.
Also how good is your welding and what kit are you using.
If you went with @Welderpaul advice you would be putting twice as much weld on it so you have twice the chance of getting it right, same goes with miters where you have two and a bit times as much weld.
If you are not confident of your welding go with @angellonewolf advice and fill the open ends which will really help.
Don't take this the wrong way but the reason I'm asking saying about the load is I don't know the situation and even if I did I'm not an Structural Engineer.
However the load will depend on the size, wind load , snow loads, what the roof is made of, how it ties into the house, how and where the box is supported, if the floor is supported on the box as well, what's the floor is made of etc.
If the floor is supported on the box and you have a party and have 20 blokes pogoing along to the latest hits, the load can be quite surprising.
This might seem quite flippant but it's just some of the things a structural engineer would need to consider.
What I'm saying is if you are not sure put plenty on, if you are not sure of your welding come back with details of the kit you have and you will get advice on your best options.
Thank you i dont know the load but what i do know the company that supplies such a base for the same size conservatory use 70x70 mm box section they 45 mitre no weld and bolt it together i am using 90x90 (sorry thought it was 100) so i would imagine i am well on top of the job,
How ive half lapped the joints it would take a load without any weld the weld is just to keep it in place so i think i will be fine just welding it as i mentioned,
Back to the paint will the paint ive listed be fine for rust no part of the structure will be exposed thanks again.
How ive half lapped the joints it would take a load without any weld the weld is just to keep it in place so i think i will be fine just welding it as i mentioned,
Back to the paint will the paint ive listed be fine for rust no part of the structure will be exposed thanks again.
