- Thread starter PaulC7
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mike 109444
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Or http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/?sra=oss&r=t&searchTerm=tip35c&x=0&y=0
Just be aware that most places like RS have a min order level or cost.
If you have an RS near you might be worth popping in.
Just be aware that most places like RS have a min order level or cost.
If you have an RS near you might be worth popping in.
mike 109444
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Note if you do replace it there maybe a rubber looking strip behind the transistor and a white ptfe bush in the screw hole. Make sure you fit these to the ne device.
PaulC7
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The electrical place i go to is Maplins... in and out in 2 mins with bits i need no fuss and cheap.
Just a few hours now till it opens... shall be first through the door.
Will get a new D1 and 2 resistors... R3 R4... dont seem to get any readings from them so will replace just in case.
Just a few hours now till it opens... shall be first through the door.
Will get a new D1 and 2 resistors... R3 R4... dont seem to get any readings from them so will replace just in case.
mike 109444
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Maplins are pants now for transistors ect. Did look on there site which is also pants but could only find a TIP31C. It might have done but would be reluctant to recomend with out cross referencing for pins and power rating. Easer just to get like for like.
Look at all these new skills you are picking up.
Look at all these new skills you are picking up.
PaulC7
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I wouldnt call them new skills just yet... ive only learnt what a few things are, how and why they are needed is just confusing me... i wouldnt call myself a simple guy but i am when it comes to electrics.
Want to learn the new skill of welding as i have a box trailer that needs the hitching arm mending as it was crashed into... no one to weld it for me and i cant transport it anywhere... but the skill will come in handy for an possible work on cars later on.
Also got a few ideas for garden furniture but i need to weld first.
Want to learn the new skill of welding as i have a box trailer that needs the hitching arm mending as it was crashed into... no one to weld it for me and i cant transport it anywhere... but the skill will come in handy for an possible work on cars later on.
Also got a few ideas for garden furniture but i need to weld first.
PaulC7
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Still no joy. 
It is still not getting power to the wire feed.
Have replaced...
4 resistors
1 diode
1 small relay
1 transistor
When the trigger is pulled it is still clicking.
Im convinced it is ony something small thats up with it... any other ideas?
It is still not getting power to the wire feed.
Have replaced...
4 resistors
1 diode
1 small relay
1 transistor
When the trigger is pulled it is still clicking.
Im convinced it is ony something small thats up with it... any other ideas?
mike 109444
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IF the "click" you are hearing is from the large relay then you may have to remove it's cover and clean the contact with a fine bit of sand paper and a wipe with WD40. Reason is it may be switching over but if contact faces are sooted up then circuit won't be being made. (you may have to desolder from pcb to take it apart. If you search on ebay for jqx you should see other similar relays but with clear covers that show you whats inside.
mike 109444
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Another thought is that the overheat device is stuck "open" Would need more pics of inside of machine to point you asto the device. IT maybe mounted to the main transformer or to the diode pack (allie plates with connections on it) Will have one wire going into it and one out,
PaulC7
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Already had the large relay open and cleaned looked pretty clean but sanded contacts points as mentioned earlier.
In my diagram the item marked connection has one wire in and one out which is mounted on the main transformer... the numbers on it are 400V 88A.
In my diagram the item marked connection has one wire in and one out which is mounted on the main transformer... the numbers on it are 400V 88A.
mike 109444
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If the device mounted to the transformer looks like one of theese http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=th...rFPYDHgWg&sqi=2&ved=0CDwQsAQ&biw=1173&bih=600
Then think of it as just a short between the two connections (when not operated by over temp) when operated it goes open circuit and stops MOST of the welder from working (fan should still operate to cool machine down!!)
WITH POWER OFF pull one lead off the device and meter across the device with meter set on Ohms. you should see a dead short, meter reading 00.00 or very near this if ok. IF you get an open circuit then device most prob duff. As a TEMPORARY test if it is showing as duff you can link the wires togeather (make sure wires are safe before trying) If it now works you need a new one. Ori will have numbers and other stuff on it which you may be able to google.
Then think of it as just a short between the two connections (when not operated by over temp) when operated it goes open circuit and stops MOST of the welder from working (fan should still operate to cool machine down!!)
WITH POWER OFF pull one lead off the device and meter across the device with meter set on Ohms. you should see a dead short, meter reading 00.00 or very near this if ok. IF you get an open circuit then device most prob duff. As a TEMPORARY test if it is showing as duff you can link the wires togeather (make sure wires are safe before trying) If it now works you need a new one. Ori will have numbers and other stuff on it which you may be able to google.
PaulC7
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The connection is like this... and with cover removed the contacts are touching so closed circuit? and should be fine... tried the wire across method and still nothing happens.
Would it be worth changing the 2 capacitors... my thinking is they provide a burst of power when needed... i:e when pulling the trigger... so they may have something to do with it not working.
Would it be worth changing the 2 capacitors... my thinking is they provide a burst of power when needed... i:e when pulling the trigger... so they may have something to do with it not working.
mike 109444
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From what you discribe of the cut out device it sounds ok.
Were you able to remove the cover from the large relay?
Might be worth replacing the caps as they are cheep enough, just make sure you fit replacement correct way round as like a battery they are polarised. There will be a white line down one side indicating the "-" negitave side and pcb may e marked with the positive side. You can use ones of a higher voltage rating if you can't get same but you try and get same value of microfarads usually shown on side as say "100uF 50v" so you could use a "100uF 63v" but avoid say a "100uF 25v".
Look to replace the small bridge rectifier (round black device with 4 legs just to the left of the large relay in your pic. Note again this needs to be fitted correct way round as there is a + and - on two of the pins.
Before above have you metered the wire speed controll (the volume type device at the bottom edge of you pic? Set meter to Ohms and first meter between the two outer pins. This should show the total amount of resistance of the control. Then meter between one of the outer and the centre pin. You should see less than the first check and it should/may change as you turn the control. Now try the other outer pin with again the centre pin and again you should see a change when you operate the control
Just a thought have you checked the fuse on the pcb!
Were you able to remove the cover from the large relay?
Might be worth replacing the caps as they are cheep enough, just make sure you fit replacement correct way round as like a battery they are polarised. There will be a white line down one side indicating the "-" negitave side and pcb may e marked with the positive side. You can use ones of a higher voltage rating if you can't get same but you try and get same value of microfarads usually shown on side as say "100uF 50v" so you could use a "100uF 63v" but avoid say a "100uF 25v".
Look to replace the small bridge rectifier (round black device with 4 legs just to the left of the large relay in your pic. Note again this needs to be fitted correct way round as there is a + and - on two of the pins.
Before above have you metered the wire speed controll (the volume type device at the bottom edge of you pic? Set meter to Ohms and first meter between the two outer pins. This should show the total amount of resistance of the control. Then meter between one of the outer and the centre pin. You should see less than the first check and it should/may change as you turn the control. Now try the other outer pin with again the centre pin and again you should see a change when you operate the control
Just a thought have you checked the fuse on the pcb!
PaulC7
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Yes ive metered the wire speed control... across the outer points there is a good reading... left outer and inner is 0 but increases when turned up and right outer and inner is 0 but increases when turned down
Yes i was able to remove the cover on large relay... which contact points do i replace, the two soldered to the board or the contact plate... shall replace if i can get hold of some.
Shall replace the bridge recitfier... tomorrow.
Checked both fuses on the pcb more than once and there fine.
Yes i was able to remove the cover on large relay... which contact points do i replace, the two soldered to the board or the contact plate... shall replace if i can get hold of some.
Shall replace the bridge recitfier... tomorrow.
Checked both fuses on the pcb more than once and there fine.
mike 109444
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Eh? doubt youwill be able to replace any part of the large relay as it's normally an assembly. You have already cleaned contacts so not much more to be done with it short of replacing. Getting hold of identical replacement not easy so set aside doing that unless you can be sure it is duff.
When you metered the fuses (I can only see one) did you lift one end out the holder as it is possible to have other components esp caps giving a false reading while fuse is still in circuit.
With the big relay cover removed and then machine operated, do you see the relay operate? You may see a spark across the contacts as it switches, this is not unusual.
PaulC7
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When i checked the fuses they were fully removed... second fuse is on the right of large relay but relay is blocking your view in the pic.
Think we may be getting somewhere here now... fitted new bridge rectifier and nothing new happened...
but then checked relay when machine operated and no it is not making contact.
Going to look for a replacement as there not much else left to change, if it still dont work then shall give it up.
Think we may be getting somewhere here now... fitted new bridge rectifier and nothing new happened...
but then checked relay when machine operated and no it is not making contact.
Going to look for a replacement as there not much else left to change, if it still dont work then shall give it up.
mike 109444
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When you say "not making contact" does it try? ie do the contacts move over in an attempt to make contact? If it does "try" but fails to fully move over could be relay has weakened over time and need replacing. If not then meter (meter set on Ohms and machine powered off!) across the coil of the relay on the underside (track side of pcb) see pic where the two "X" are. As this is the coil inside the relay it should show on your meter as a dead short or just a few Ohms (<10) You may see the meter value rise as there is a capacitor attached across the coil and this will charge up from your meter and may give a reading. If you don't see the dead short then the coil in the relay is duff (open circuit). If youdo get a reading but are unsure if it is the coil then you will need to remove the relay and meter out of circuit.
Note having looked at the spec sheet for the relay it looks like the manufacture of the welder/pcb has removed some of the unused pins of the relay before fitting to pcb, so if yougo shopping on ebay for one then don't be supprised if it has more pins!
Note having looked at the spec sheet for the relay it looks like the manufacture of the welder/pcb has removed some of the unused pins of the relay before fitting to pcb, so if yougo shopping on ebay for one then don't be supprised if it has more pins!
