KTM Superduke 1290 weld repair help

[witherrss]

Hi, I was wondering if someone could help with potentially doing a weld repair on my KTM Superduke 1290R, the oil filter cover bolt snapped within the engine and I tried to retrieve the bolt and as a result some of the engine casing became damaged where the bolt is normally held.

The oil filter bolts are T5 M8 x 16 and the manufacturers recommended torque setting is 6NM, one only of the threads is damaged, since then the hole has been drilled and the remaining snapped bolt has been removed. I have since tapped the hole (that was made bigger) with an M8 tap, installed a M8 helicoil and gone up to an M6 bolt which so far appears to hold the oil filter cover solidly in place.

I have also built up the surrounding area with JB weld high heat putty, filling in all the broken engine casing:
Link to epoxy here

I am hoping the JB weld is going to hold up for at least the foreseeable, if it does not I believe it will need TIG welding which brings me here, would anyone here be prepared to perform a repair on this so it can be drilled, tapped and Heli coiled (may even throw a timesert at it).

The JB weld was applied about 2 hours ago (07/09/24) will be waiting until tomorrow before starting the Bike up and running the bike for a while, has anyone here used JB weld for small low torque repairs like this? if so has it held up for you.

I am prepared to pay well for someone to have a go at welding this (ideally with the engine in the Bike if possible) I have included pictures below.

Location: Northwest UK, Pendle, Lancashire, I can bring the bike to you which I assume I will need to do, willing to travel to the bottom of the country if I have to lol.

Before the bolt was removed:

Before the bolt was removed close up:

After the bolt was removed:

My repair with larger bolt, helicoil before JB weld applied, see large gap behind filter cover:

JB weld epoxy applied:

 

[Kram]

Perhaps one for @doubleboost , Id suggest anyone doing a decent repair would want the engine out for it.

The problem is after welding, it would need to be dressed flat and then precisely drilled and tapped, which are not so easy when in a bad position. Its also likely to be very oily with lots absorbed into the casting.

Do you have a photo, after your repair, before the JB weld but without the cover installed?

I'd say its possibly at the temperature limits I'd want to trust an epoxy repair but the fact it has bolts, it will never be more than a minor drip leak and possibly best left as it is for now.

 

[witherrss]

Perhaps one for @doubleboost , Id suggest anyone doing a decent repair would want the engine out for it.

The problem is after welding, it would need to be dressed flat and then precisely drilled and tapped, which are not so easy when in a bad position. Its also likely to be very oily with lots absorbed into the casting.

Do you have a photo, after your repair, before the JB weld but without the cover installed?

I'd say its possibly at the temperature limits I'd want to trust an epoxy repair but the fact it has bolts, it will never be more than a minor drip leak and possibly best left as it is for now.

Thanks, in regards to the photo I don't have the specific photo you have asked for no, I can however snap a photo tomorrow with the cover removed as I need to reinstall the oil filter anyway.

 

[doubleboost]

Easy repair with the engine out and preferably stripped.
These casings are normally decent material .

 

[Kram]

More photos may help somone judge what extent of repair is needed.

An idea.. but still a bit of a bodge. If a steel cover plate was turned up to fit and protect the sealing face, it would likely allow the damaged outside edge to be built up with less need to dress the sealing face flat.

 

[witherrss]

Easy repair with the engine out and preferably stripped.
These casings are normally decent material .

Is it significantly harder with the engine in the Bike? (I know practically zero about welding)

The engine drop I could possibly work with, the engine strip down I am absolutely trying to avoid and would be a desperate last resort as it's a massive job.

I will get plenty of pictures and measurements of the repair tomorrow.

 

[Munkul]

That housing looks like it may be bolted to the engine, meaning it could come off without a full strip down potentially... Lay the bike on its side, you might not need to even take the engine out.
I could potentially do it for you, up near Carlisle, but I'm sure there are others nearer. It's not a dead cert that it's weldable, but its a high % chance.
If the housing comes off, it could be clocked and skimmed on a mill or lathe, would be better than hand filing, but hand filing will work as well.

 

[witherrss]

That housing looks like it may be bolted to the engine, meaning it could come off without a full strip down potentially... Lay the bike on its side, you might not need to even take the engine out.
I could potentially do it for you, up near Carlisle, but I'm sure there are others nearer. It's not a dead cert that it's weldable, but its a high % chance.

As far as I am aware (will double check) the sump on the Superduke 1290R are none removable so it's an entire strip down and crank case off in which case a new crank case could be fitted, massive and expensive job unfortunately.

I appreciate your offer, lets see if there are any closer that are prepared to give it a go, and in the mean time lets see how this JB weld holds up.

 

[doubleboost]

Once you go near that with a die grinder and a TIG touch it will need machining , or very careful hand dressing back in to shape .
You can not just drip a bit of filler rod on to the outside .
Getting the oil out is always a pain .
But it is repairable .
If the plastic metal is holding up I would leave well alone .
It could be drilled deeper and a stud installed with lock tight to make a permanent repair .

 

[Keithmac]

Just bare in mind that filter housing is under full oil pressure.

 

[witherrss]

Once you go near that with a die grinder and a TIG touch it will need machining , or very careful hand dressing back in to shape .
You can not just drip a bit of filler rod on to the outside .
Getting the oil out is always a pain .
But it is repairable .
If the plastic metal is holding up I would leave well alone .
It could be drilled deeper and a stud installed with lock tight to make a permanent repair .

Thanks can you send me a link to some of the studs you are referring to please.

 

[doubleboost]

Just a bit of 8 mill high tensile would do

 

[Robert Weaver]

The stud probably won't be off the shelf.

 

[premmington]

KTM = "keep taking money"

 

[waddycall]

Did your new bolt tighten up ok? I’m guessing the seal is an o ring mounted to the cover? If so I’d leave it as others have said (unless it has issues).

 

[frank horton]

I'd never trust JB weld etc for something so expensive to replace if it lets go.....
mind, u'd be on ur

sliding up the road before the engine blows........so thats OK then.......!!!!!!!!!
get it done properly please.....
for those kinda reg jobs like oil filters etc.....I ALWAYS replace the bolts with studs.....mostly, st/st studs even custom made with Acorn nuts for the look....

 

[oldbikedavey]

Enough room for a species of threaded insert ?

 

[Hood]

Mig might actually be better, it can tolerate much dirtier material as it is fully positive polarity so cleans very well.

 

[RichardM]

Would I be correct in saying all the sealing face is ok?
If so I'm not sure I would bother to weld it up.
Bit confused about what bolt you currently have in, if it's 6mm.
Replace the 6mm bolt with a cap head 12.9 rating which will give higher tensile strength. Put a nice thick washer under the head (stepped even better to locate the outer casing) to spread the load to previous size. Run it around and check for leaks.

 

[oldbikedavey]

If the thing has been helicoiled, then a stepped stud might tidy things up a bit better.
' She'll be right, mate ! '