KTM Superduke 1290 weld repair help

[pedrobedro]

very oily with lots absorbed into the casting.

Aluminium doesn't absorb oil or it would soak through and drip out. Could you drill further down the current hole, tap it and put a longer stud or bolt in ?

 

[dobbslc]

Looks like the oil filter housing is all one part with the crankcase half
I found a decent picture of one on Ebay.

 

[bricol]

Aluminium doesn't absorb oil or it would soak through and drip out. Could you drill further down the current hole, tap it and put a longer stud or bolt in ?

Easiest, quickest, cheapest and perfectly secure repair.

Just make sure to drill perfectly perpendicular to the surface - something a lot of people seem unable to do.

 

[bricol]

Hi, I was wondering if someone could help with potentially doing a weld repair on my KTM Superduke 1290R, the oil filter cover bolt snapped within the engine and I tried to retrieve the bolt and as a result some of the engine casing became damaged where the bolt is normally held.

The oil filter bolts are T5 M8 x 16 and the manufacturers recommended torque setting is 6NM, one only of the threads is damaged, since then the hole has been drilled and the remaining snapped bolt has been removed. I have since tapped the hole (that was made bigger) with an M8 tap, installed a M8 helicoil and gone up to an M6 bolt which so far appears to hold the oil filter cover solidly in place.

I have also built up the surrounding area with JB weld high heat putty, filling in all the broken engine casing:
Link to epoxy here

I am hoping the JB weld is going to hold up for at least the foreseeable, if it does not I believe it will need TIG welding which brings me here, would anyone here be prepared to perform a repair on this so it can be drilled, tapped and Heli coiled (may even throw a timesert at it).

The JB weld was applied about 2 hours ago (07/09/24) will be waiting until tomorrow before starting the Bike up and running the bike for a while, has anyone here used JB weld for small low torque repairs like this? if so has it held up for you.

I am prepared to pay well for someone to have a go at welding this (ideally with the engine in the Bike if possible) I have included pictures below.

Location: Northwest UK, Pendle, Lancashire, I can bring the bike to you which I assume I will need to do, willing to travel to the bottom of the country if I have to lol.

Before the bolt was removed:




Before the bolt was removed close up:



After the bolt was removed:

View attachment 464308

My repair with larger bolt, helicoil before JB weld applied, see large gap behind filter cover:



JB weld epoxy applied:




View attachment 464317

Looking at the pictures, knowing nothing about the bike, it looks like a seal is achieved with an o-ring on the cover into the groove on the crankcase? In which case, the missing bit of metal from where drilling the bolt out made a right mess, does nothing much if you've drilled deep enough and retapped deep enough for the bolt to hold. The JB Weld is purely cosmetic - I'd be filling it down so it looked less of a mess.

The 4.8 grade screw you have used is made of cheese though - probably strong enough to hold that cover, but even so, I'd replace with grade 8.8.

 

[atomant48]

How did the bolt snap ? That torque figure is pretty low. Was it corroded ?

 

[zzr1200]

How did the bolt snap ? That torque figure is pretty low. Was it corroded ?

Someone lost the original bolt, and the replacement bottom out, possibly?

One other thought on a possible bodge repair, drill the hole deeper and use a length of 6mm studding but bond it in place with some concrete anchor/stud resin the only problem would be the heat cycling, that I could see???

Anyone tried this method before?

 

[Hotstuff]

If it was mine, while on a run I’d always have a feeling of impending doom at the back of my mind, hoping that the JB weld repair holds.

For me I’d whip out that engine and get it over to Mr Double boost.

With autumn approaching, it might be a good excuse to carry out other repairs, refurbishment or modifications you’ve wanted to do while the engine’s out.

Good luck and do keep us posted.

 

[pawsnizzy]

No way I'd go anywhere near that bike unless it was repaired properly i.e engine out, welded and machined properly! What's your life worth?

 

[pedrobedro]

No way I'd go anywhere near that bike unless it was repaired properly i.e engine out, welded and machined properly! What's your life worth?

Let's not get carried away, bike's have been leaking oil for years and not killed anybody.

 

[pawsnizzy]

Let's not get carried away, bike's have been leaking oil for years and not killed anybody.

In that case, KTM should have designed it like that, I'm sure the workshop manual recommends JB Weld for repairing crankcases too

 

[Munkul]

Aluminium doesn't absorb oil or it would soak through and drip out.

Quite a few castings have are semi porous. They hold a lot of oil when you start welding them, trust me.

 

[bricol]

Assuming the photos tell the full story, and the sealing face is as shown, then the JB weld is doing nothing but cosmetically filling in a gap on the outside - as I read it, the hole was tapped out to M8, then an M8 hex head screw used to hold the cover - then the JB Weld applied. If the new screw is into new metal as the hole is now deeper, all is good other than the JB Weld looking untidy.

 

[bricol]

some concrete anchor/stud resin the only problem would be the heat cycling, that I could see???

Anyone tried this method before?

Only into the stuff its supposed to be used in - concrete or brick!

There are quite a few proper metal to metal compounds rather more suited to the job.

But if it's drilled and tapped deeper, then no need to bond it in - the fastener is only under tension, no side loading. And unless the cover is replaced, now drilled to clear M8, then an M6 screw head/nut/washer is going to feel a bit lost over the larger hole.

 

[witherrss]

Did your new bolt tighten up ok? I’m guessing the seal is an o ring mounted to the cover? If so I’d leave it as others have said (unless it has issues).

Yes it did tighten up OK it seems.

 

[doubleboost]

I can make you a stepped stud 8 / 6 mm no problem just need lengths .

 

[Morrisman]

In that case, KTM should have designed it like that, I'm sure the workshop manual recommends JB Weld for repairing crankcases too

Workshop manual will tell you replace the engine case. Nothing less. And to get a specialist to do it.

 

[zzr1200]

Only into the stuff its supposed to be used in - concrete or brick!

So it doesn't stick to metal then?........

It was only thinking out of the box, so to speak.....

 

[brightspark]

The stud probably won't be off the shelf.

easy enough to make one using a half threaded bolt cut down and thread the cut end to whatever length needed

 

[Dilkris]

Just bare in mind that filter housing is under full oil pressure.

Is it though?
Or is the filter on the pre oil pump or oil return circuit?

 

[Morrisman]

Is it though?
Or is the filter on the pre oil pump or oil return circuit?

I’d not imagine two 6mm screws would be all they’d have on the cover if it were indeed full oil pressure.

But there again, what is the oil pressure?

I remember my old Kawasaki fours, oil pressure was barely 2psi. Roller bearing cranks didn’t need much pressure. No idea if KTM is the same.

If it were me repairing it I’d make a drilling jig, like the cover, but with a deep bar welded where the broken case hole is, with a hole perpendicular to the face, so a drill would be in perfect alignment and in the correct place. And go deep. Then I’d tap it, and Loctite a stud in there. Then fill around it with a suitable epoxy type JB weld or whatever.