Blobber
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- lincolnshire
Its almost like they have put the wrong contact in it when it was made?
- Thread starter aesmith
- Start date
Have you dealt with them recently? The Woods web site says I need to go to a different page https://uk.psh.eu/ which doesn't really seem to work.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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- France, Brittany.
I think I have dead ones, might be able to find some bits.
If it's the same as the four pot 1.5 litre.
Looks the same.
If it's the same as the four pot 1.5 litre.
Looks the same.
Jack_K
Member
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Low voltage will cause the solenoid to not function properly as well as have too low power to turn the engine over.
Set the meter in a fixed range and also make it so the engine won't start. If it turns over, you want to try for 10-15 seconds to see what the voltage does.
Thanks, yes you're correct the meter was set to auto range. But again I'm not convinced voltage when cranking can be the direct cause. When it turns it does so briskly and starts straightaway. When it fails it doesn't turn at all or even try, obviously that's with the same cables and battery.
I can't test now because the starter's working, but I think what I need to test is voltage at the solenoid when it's not working. What sort of voltage does it need?
I can't test now because the starter's working, but I think what I need to test is voltage at the solenoid when it's not working. What sort of voltage does it need?
addjunkie
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- Northumberland. Reet oot in the sticks
Have you considered the starter motor and solenoid could be fine, but you have an intermittent fault in the circuit that operates the solenoid. Earth fault, bad or loose connection etc.
I haven't ruled it out but not yet tested. I have a test lead made up that I can use to jump straight from battery +ve to the solenoid terminal. Obviously I can only test that when the fault occurs. I also bear in mind that neither of the other two starters ever showed this fault, only this one.
Smallfry
HE's Spartacus.
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Sensibly priced and mini diggers are not words that can be used in the same sentence.
The sort of starters are great, but do have solenoid problems. Original would have been a Nippon Denso unit. Contact kits are available.
Are you sure the battery is up to snuff ? After using the glowplugs, it can really take it out of the little battery used on these things.
My 1990s Yanmar is still an instant starter, no matter how long it has been left. Its the batteries that are my problem.
The sort of starters are great, but do have solenoid problems. Original would have been a Nippon Denso unit. Contact kits are available.
Are you sure the battery is up to snuff ? After using the glowplugs, it can really take it out of the little battery used on these things.
My 1990s Yanmar is still an instant starter, no matter how long it has been left. Its the batteries that are my problem.
addjunkie
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- Northumberland. Reet oot in the sticks
Im inclined to agree with this my little tatty case is fine, but leave it a week in winter and it just chuggs over. Battery is really a bit small, but no space for a bigger one. Add the booster of choice and goes almost instantly. Get battery tested and its fine.
Id be more inclined to put juice in the small terminals and see if the solenoid engages, rather than a heavy lead bypassing everything as it wont highlight where the fault is, though will start your digger.
On that subject and just looking a a random supplier, if I look for compatible starters it comes up with a pile of options from £88 to £648 (Hella). Mostly bands I've never heard of but including some that I have .. Delco, Prestolite, Lucas, Bosch, Denso. Not necessarily in that order, and the known-to-me brands aren't necessarily the most expensive either.
Jack_K
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9.6v is the standard defined minimum voltage. 0.5v drop from each side of the battery to the same side of the starter is the standard maximum drop. Meaning battery + to starter + should be less than 0.5v under load and battery - to starter - should be less than 0.5v under load
An intermittent connection or switch could cause it. Even though it starts, it's still a good idea to check the voltage. The voltage drop may still show up but still allow it to start most of the time.
The starter with the issues may have a solenoid that requires a bit more power. When I've found solenoid issues on pre-engaged starters it's usually very intermittent.
Sorry I was meaning the voltage at the solenoid when it's trying to start.
(It would also be nice to know that cranking voltage is within normal limits, but to me that's secondary because during the fault it doesn't even try, and when it's working it turns over perfectly well.)
It's really the voltage(s) during the fault that I want, to see whether there's just not enough to expect the solenoid to work reliably, or whether there's plenty but the solenoid's just not using it.
My local auto electrical uses Cargo starters probably Chinese but they stand by the warranty.
