Land Rover Defender 110 Rebuild

[KimB]

Okay collin. I'll try, I was going to put something on the bottom part of the bulk head to keep it all inline
Kim

 

[penfold]

I like how your carpy project 110 has a better bulkhead and seat box than my daily driver...

 

[KimB]

I like how your carpy project 110 has a better bulkhead and seat box than my daily driver...

Carpy ?
The seat box is rotten also :/ battery tray fell through and someone bodged it. Also drivers side mounts eroded away, bought a tdci one for £40 just need to collect it.

 

[lotus_esprit_s1]

Five years ago Land Rover would sell you a brand new TD5 bulkhead in primer for £160 from main dealer. I bought three! But you probably don't want to hear that!

 

[KimB]

Five years ago Land Rover would sell you a brand new TD5 bulkhead in primer for £160 from main dealer. I bought three! But you probably don't want to hear that!

No lol. Well I paid £106 for three panels. New galvanised one is like 800 without painting

 

[Bigjoe]

OOoh looks a good project Kim, i like the lou moniker too

 

[dboy]

Will keep an eye on this build, plan to do a 90 this year on a galv chassis along with galv bulkhead and steel doors but that will need to wait till my disco is done.

 

[KimB]

Will keep an eye on this build, plan to do a 90 this year on a galv chassis along with galv bulkhead and steel doors but that will need to wait till my disco is done.

Where can you get steel doors from ? Mine needs the doors sorting, I'm not sure what to do about them at the moment.
Kim

 

[Robotstar5]

Where can you get steel doors from ? Mine needs the doors sorting, I'm not sure what to do about them at the moment.
Kim

I've never seen steel skinned doors on a Landy, if yours are beyond saving have a look at the breakers for some decent used ones.

 

[KimB]

I've never seen steel skinned doors on a Landy, if yours are beyond saving have a look at the breakers for some decent used ones.

I will do, the steel frame on the passenger side is really bad. So bad that when the door swung open it bent the door skin out. I need to take them apart at one point, I may try salvage the skin but I did read that when un-pealing the skin it can just snap the edges of it.

 

[Robotstar5]

You can repair the steel frames if you have the time/skills to do it, but for the cost/availability of the later doors it's probably not worth it?.

 

[lotus_esprit_s1]

Where can you get steel doors from ? Mine needs the doors sorting, I'm not sure what to do about them at the moment.
Kim

Defenders had steel rear door from 2001, steel front doors from 2004. They are far better than the previous type, they are built like a proper door with a one piece galvanised pressed frame and galvanised steel skin, much stronger, shut like a proper door and have no water traps. I have three defenders, all on galvanised chassis, and have them on all of them!

Downside is they cost around £300 each second hand, but personally I wouldn't use any other door.

 

[lotus_esprit_s1]

This one was brand new but sprayed orange for some reason! Note the rounded top corners.

They also take a revised bottom edge door seal that actually works!

 

[Robotstar5]

Defenders had steel rear door from 2001, steel front doors from 2004.

I didn't know that, every day a school day

 

[KimB]

Defenders had steel rear door from 2001, steel front doors from 2004. They are far better than the previous type, they are built like a proper door with a one piece galvanised pressed frame and galvanised steel skin, much stronger, shut like a proper door and have no water traps. I have three defenders, all on galvanised chassis, and have them on all of them!

Downside is they cost around £300 each second hand, but personally I wouldn't use any other door.

Holy cow that's expensive! I'll see how it goes. Hopefully I can salvage them properly but if not I'll have to get some new ones

 

[Cobbler]

Holy cow that's expensive! I'll see how it goes. Hopefully I can salvage them properly but if not I'll have to get some new ones

Look on YRM's web site, they do a preformed section 11/2 metres long to repair the bottom & sides of the doors in zintec. They are £18.50 each. I've just done both front & rear door on my sons 110 with 1 length. Both galv & alloy door skins are available.

Fitting the repair sections was not difficult, if you put repairing Land Rover doors in on the web there are instruction on how to do it

 

[Kent]

I will do, the steel frame on the passenger side is really bad. So bad that when the door swung open it bent the door skin out. I need to take them apart at one point, I may try salvage the skin but I did read that when un-pealing the skin it can just snap the edges of it.

Anneal it to prevent this happening. Oil the surface and heat the oil off with the likes of a blowlamp, same when you beating out any dings and such Ali work hardens fast

 

[octo0072000]

some links to 110 parts book for you KimB
also remember you need all the hicap mountings for the tub to fit the chassis not the same as a pick up

http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/02/land-rover-defender-110-parts-book/

 

[lotus_esprit_s1]

They can of course be repaired, but the reason they rot so badly in the first place is due to the preformed spot welded channel, so by repairing them you are really just delaying the problem for a year or two.

The water runs down between the door glass and the outer weather seals (as happens on any car be it landrover or Lexus), and collects at the bottom of the door, and being drawn in between the spot welded joints on the lower channel and starting the rusting process. There are two drain holes at each end of the channel doors but they are easily blocked and anyway the water has to collect on the channel before running out of the drain hole.
The back door fares better as the rear window is (theoritically) water tight as it doesn't move. The old series doors which again use the same channel design don't rot anywhere near as badly as the separate doortops deflect the water out the bottom before it can run down the lower door and collect at the bottom.

The new doors are actually designed by someone who seems to understand car door design and have no water traps due to their one piece design, and any water ingress is instantly drained through three large drain holes.

 

[KimB]

Look on YRM's web site, they do a preformed section 11/2 metres long to repair the bottom & sides of the doors in zintec. They are £18.50 each. I've just done both front & rear door on my sons 110 with 1 length. Both galv & alloy door skins are available.

Fitting the repair sections was not difficult, if you put repairing Land Rover doors in on the web there are instruction on how to do it

That's where I got the footwells from. I'll do one thing at a time to make sure its done right

Anneal it to prevent this happening. Oil the surface and heat the oil off with the likes of a blowlamp, same when you beating out any dings and such Ali work hardens fast

Thanks for that tip I'll make sure to do it.

some links to 110 parts book for you KimB
also remember you need all the hicap mountings for the tub to fit the chassis not the same as a pick up

http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/02/land-rover-defender-110-parts-book/

Already got all of them I'll get them galvanised.

They can of course be repaired, but the reason they rot so badly in the first place is due to the preformed spot welded channel, so by repairing them you are really just delaying the problem for a year or two.

The water runs down between the door glass and the outer weather seals (as happens on any car be it landrover or Lexus), and collects at the bottom of the door, and being drawn in between the spot welded joints on the lower channel and starting the rusting process. There are two drain holes at each end of the channel doors but they are easily blocked and anyway the water has to collect on the channel before running out of the drain hole.
The back door fares better as the rear window is (theoritically) water tight as it doesn't move. The old series doors which again use the same channel design don't rot anywhere near as badly as the separate doortops deflect the water out the bottom before it can run down the lower door and collect at the bottom.

The new doors are actually designed by someone who seems to understand car door design and have no water traps due to their one piece design, and any water ingress is instantly drained through three large drain holes.

I may have to try salvage them at the moment, no big deal to sort out later on however

Thanks for all the advice guys
Kim