Shox Dr
Chief Engineer to Carlos Fandango
- Messages
- 17,995
- Location
- East Yorkshire
Might as well bobtail it while you've got the rear quarters off?
That or get rid of the lot and stick a SIII body on it
- Thread starter Gandalf
- Start date
That or get rid of the lot and stick a SIII body on it
Nice write up on LR4X4 Katluke, one that I have missed for some reason.
Fortunately, or maybe unfortunately for me the boot floor is fine, so can't use your method of keeping the body up and dropping the chassis when I do replace the rear cross member later in the year.
The only other way would be to remove both rear Q/panels and then have a wooden beam through the gaps and supported on both sides.
Fortunately, or maybe unfortunately for me
the boot floor is fine, so can't use your method of keeping the body up and dropping the chassis when I do replace the rear cross member later in the year.The only other way would be to remove both rear Q/panels and then have a wooden beam through the gaps and supported on both sides.
Its a design problem with the rear crossmember on the Discos.If you look at it from the side you can see that instead of the body mounts on the chassis being directly below the crossmember to take the weight better they are actually offset quite a bit further back towards the rear.Here is a photo of what Im on about.
If I was to do another rear crossmember,I would use box section rather than the flimsy 1.2mm crossmember and also sort some way out of moving the chassis mounts to directly below the crossmember. When you replace your crossmember I would just unbolt it then jack the body up until the chassis falls away from the crossmember leaving you enough room to remove the old one and then fit the new.I would think it will be a bit more awkward with you floor still being in but at least you havnt got to replace that aswell hth.
If I was to do another rear crossmember,I would use box section rather than the flimsy 1.2mm crossmember and also sort some way out of moving the chassis mounts to directly below the crossmember. When you replace your crossmember I would just unbolt it then jack the body up until the chassis falls away from the crossmember leaving you enough room to remove the old one and then fit the new.I would think it will be a bit more awkward with you floor still being in but at least you havnt got to replace that aswell hth.
Welded the inner wing together:
Welding is looking a bit better
Put the bits in place to see how it looks and fits
Had to make up a panel to weld in for the headlight, as the supplied one is for a 300TDi, don't seem to get stuff for the 200TDi
Will see how it all goes tomorrow.
Welding is looking a bit better
Put the bits in place to see how it looks and fits
Had to make up a panel to weld in for the headlight, as the supplied one is for a 300TDi, don't seem to get stuff for the 200TDi
Will see how it all goes tomorrow.
Springerdinger
memoirs of the mediocre diy mechanic
- Messages
- 435
- Location
- UK nr Southam
Hi Gandalf - Looking more car less rust now
Nice work
Chris
Nice work
Chris
- Messages
- 22,503
- Location
- Birmingham
Should have taken the opportunity to upgrade to the 300 headlamps?
Went back to work last week and didn't have much time available to post some more photos.
So will continue now:
Inner wing welded in:
Was very pleased to find that my adaptation of the headlight mount worked and I didn't even have to re-align the headlight once in
Also gave the underneath of the inner wing a coating of 3m body schutz.
Don't know why I bought that originally, as it is a spray on product and I don't have a compressor. So just painted it on
Spent the rest of that weekend putting the front fender back on and connecting the ancillary bits to the inner wing and then temp fitting the rear quarter panel, so that I could get to work for the 4 days before the Easter weekend.
Didn't get around to doing the rear body mount, so drove without one
Friday of the Easter weekend I started working again.
Got the rear q/panel off and gave the metal a good coating of waxoyl and replaced the mud flap hanger, that had rusted off.
One of the best things I have ever bought was a Dremmel tool a couple of weeks ago. Without it, I would have struggled to get some bolts out at the top of what was left of the hanger and the stay, which is bolted to the boot floor. All so rusted, that the only way was to grind them off and that is where the Dremmel came into it's own
Put the q/panel on with Carbond and now hopefully well sealed against water ingress.
I then turned my attention to the hole in the drivers footwell.
Pulled the carpet out and then the sound deadening and this is what confronted me:
Not as bad as I thought it was going to be, mainly surface rust which cleaned off pretty well to good metal.
Here is the problem area:
Got out the trusty Dremmel (how I love that tool):
Made new friend called Patch and he fitted in quite well:
Welded Patch in and gave the floor a coat of Hydrate 80 and then a coat of POR 15.
It was getting late and I forgot to take some photos
Also patched in some 2mm plate in the rear cross member for the body mount to be welded to:
Some of my best welds there so far and a lot of chicken s**t
Welded the body mount in, painted and waxoyled it, but forgot to take photos.
Still need to patch up the rear cross member itself, but as it was raining most of the day yesterday, that will have to wait.
I then pulled the carpet and sound deadening from the boot and the boot floor will also have to be replaced, as there is a hole and I can see where the rust is waiting to break through the POR15 I put on 2 years ago.
That can be done when I do the rear cross member.
Don't know what to expect when I pull the carpet and sound deadening from the passenger footwell and rear passenger footwell.
Hopefully it will only be surface rust.
Still need to remove the front fender and give the inner wing another coat of something and waxoyl.
What suggestions for the inside of the wheel arches and other areas exposed to the elements, as the body shutz should be sprayed on and not painted?
Need something that is put on by paint brush.
Next on the list will be box section for the cills, with hi lift points, before MOT time in June.
So will continue now:
Inner wing welded in:
Was very pleased to find that my adaptation of the headlight mount worked and I didn't even have to re-align the headlight once in
Also gave the underneath of the inner wing a coating of 3m body schutz.
Don't know why I bought that originally, as it is a spray on product and I don't have a compressor. So just painted it on
Spent the rest of that weekend putting the front fender back on and connecting the ancillary bits to the inner wing and then temp fitting the rear quarter panel, so that I could get to work for the 4 days before the Easter weekend.
Didn't get around to doing the rear body mount, so drove without one
Friday of the Easter weekend I started working again.
Got the rear q/panel off and gave the metal a good coating of waxoyl and replaced the mud flap hanger, that had rusted off.
One of the best things I have ever bought was a Dremmel tool a couple of weeks ago. Without it, I would have struggled to get some bolts out at the top of what was left of the hanger and the stay, which is bolted to the boot floor. All so rusted, that the only way was to grind them off and that is where the Dremmel came into it's own
Put the q/panel on with Carbond and now hopefully well sealed against water ingress.
I then turned my attention to the hole in the drivers footwell.
Pulled the carpet out and then the sound deadening and this is what confronted me:
Not as bad as I thought it was going to be, mainly surface rust which cleaned off pretty well to good metal.
Here is the problem area:
Got out the trusty Dremmel (how I love that tool
):
Made new friend called Patch and he fitted in quite well
:
Welded Patch in and gave the floor a coat of Hydrate 80 and then a coat of POR 15.
It was getting late and I forgot to take some photos
Also patched in some 2mm plate in the rear cross member for the body mount to be welded to:
Some of my best welds there so far and a lot of chicken s**t
Welded the body mount in, painted and waxoyled it, but forgot to take photos.
Still need to patch up the rear cross member itself, but as it was raining most of the day yesterday, that will have to wait.
I then pulled the carpet and sound deadening from the boot and the boot floor will also have to be replaced, as there is a hole and I can see where the rust is waiting to break through the POR15 I put on 2 years ago.
That can be done when I do the rear cross member.
Don't know what to expect when I pull the carpet and sound deadening from the passenger footwell and rear passenger footwell.
Hopefully it will only be surface rust.
Still need to remove the front fender and give the inner wing another coat of something and waxoyl.
What suggestions for the inside of the wheel arches and other areas exposed to the elements, as the body shutz should be sprayed on and not painted?
Need something that is put on by paint brush.
Next on the list will be box section for the cills, with hi lift points, before MOT time in June.
- Messages
- 22,503
- Location
- Birmingham
Coming along nicely 
glad I sold my Disco, not rust problems, just the cost of fuel, a gallon a day to commute 
glad I sold my Disco, not rust problems, just the cost of fuel, a gallon a day to commute Got around to finishing the patching of the rear cross member yesterday:
Gave it some seam sealer, Etchweld primer and then a coat of black paint (from a rattle can).
Bought a compressor from Aldi yesterday (don't know if that was a mistake or not). Got it home and found it did not have an air hose. Checked the box in the store, but it did not say if it had one in or not.
Off to the only store here tomorrow to get one, plus some other bits.
Had a close look at the rear bumper and it was a mess of flaking paint and rust.
Cleaned it down to bare metal, treated it with Hydrate 80, then primed it with Etchweld and then black paint:
Just for a laugh, here is a photo of my very untidy garage. How I find things in there is beyond me sometimes
Dumping ground for things my wife does not want in her shed.
I will get around to getting it more organised soon.
Gave it some seam sealer, Etchweld primer and then a coat of black paint (from a rattle can).
Bought a compressor from Aldi yesterday (don't know if that was a mistake or not). Got it home and found it did not have an air hose. Checked the box in the store, but it did not say if it had one in or not.
Off to the only store here tomorrow to get one, plus some other bits.
Had a close look at the rear bumper and it was a mess of flaking paint and rust.
Cleaned it down to bare metal, treated it with Hydrate 80, then primed it with Etchweld and then black paint:
Just for a laugh, here is a photo of my very untidy garage. How I find things in there is beyond me sometimes
Dumping ground for things my wife does not want in her shed.
I will get around to getting it more organised soon.
Im sure my garage would be like that if i had one 
someone has covered my bumper in black duct tape ,it would probably disintigrate if i pulled it off
just got to patch one rear wheel arch ,stick the battery back ,on drive it around a bit to clean the rust off the discs.
hopefully get an mot saturday
i know the swivel hubs are leaking a bit and one needs a cv joint but hopefully it will clean up enough before mot... can allways drain out any remaing oil
cheers Mike
someone has covered my bumper in black duct tape ,it would probably disintigrate if i pulled it off
just got to patch one rear wheel arch ,stick the battery back ,on drive it around a bit to clean the rust off the discs
.hopefully get an mot saturday
i know the swivel hubs are leaking a bit and one needs a cv joint but hopefully it will clean up enough before mot
... can allways drain out any remaing oil cheers Mike
