Lanoguard, waxoyl etc.

[steveo3002]

I'm shortly to be faced with temporarily storing a lathe and a few other machine tools outside when we get a new garage built, they'll be under tarpaulin but I really don't want any rust on machined surfaces.
Asking around, Owatrol was recommended to me, their products are well reviewed and there's quite a range on their website.
Not cheap though but claimed to go a long way.

View attachment 328826

Owatrol Oil | Rust Inhibiter Paint | Owatrol Direct

A powerful rust inhibitor which penetrates through rusted surfaces to isolate sound metal below & a paint conditioner for oil-based paints improving flow.

www.owatroldirect.co.uk

ive tried this ...got a feeling its almost just linseed oil , no doubt some secret additive

 

[GRW]

Years ago, I was in some shed somewhere with work, on a Farm - & in the corner was an unloved but completely, dirty-looking, Matchless single. Shed was a damp outbuilding and the bike had sat there I as told for probably 30-years plus (awaiting resto that probably never happened).

The farmer said that all he'd done to stop it rotting, was to periodically get some red diesel out of the tractor refuelling tank, and slosh it over the bike.

 

[ronan]

I've got some 'mystery stuff' from when the machine shop closed over 20 years ago.

Designed for bed protection. Shell, 'blood red' in colour, I just can't recall the name.
I still use it now to protect chrome on bikes.

Ensis fluid ?

 

[jerrytug]

Nobody has mentioned the 'rust converter' type products like Fertan, which is not too expensive if you buy in gallons.
It depends on whether you can get good access under the vehicle..and if you want to drill holes and squirt into sill cavities etc. which I am ignorant of.
But I would brush of the worst rust, paint on a couple of coats of Fertan (which is happy being used on damp steel), then thickly apply lanolin, purchased in the cheapest bulk tubs available.
I use lanolin on my yacht self steering gear (Aries) and it lasts a couple years of being battered by salty seawater, a much harsher environment than under a lorry etc; also it is not sticky like oils and greases. (will post a photo).
Lanoguard, or whatvever, type products were invented in New Zealand (60,000,000 sheep I believe...) by a bright spark in marketing, who had a eureka moment and worked out a way to sell lanolin with a brand name and a 1000% mark-up. In my opinion do not sue me..

 

[jerrytug]

ive tried this ...got a feeling its almost just linseed oil , no doubt some secret additive

Linseed oil oxidises to a dark brown, hard coating which would be a nightmare to remove from the precision ways of machine tools. Unless your product has additives to prevent oxidising.

 

[prepman]

Wax oil needs to be warm. It used to say that on the tin.
But as said it will not cure rust.

In the past I have used it with good results, like wise I have used old engine oil.

I had. Old 205. It was treated with wax oil and after 20 years it was still good.

Even the brake pipes over the fuel tank were still good.

But like most products, it is only as good as they say if you follow the instructions.

Quotes, cut and paste from other sources do not prove anything.

GM used to offer Wax oil as an additional rust prevention, the car stank for about 6 weeks.

I do it during hot dry weather (if we get it). Otherwise you are urinating into the wind.

 

[ronan]

When i was serving my time, we had the need to store a lot of fully machined shafts in a drafty, wet lean to. The buyer went off and bought boxes of aerosols in which was a pink coloured substance, that reminded me of the soap you find inside brillo-pads, it even smelled the same. But it worked, the stuff was sprayed on and when it dried after a few hours, nothing rusted, even though the air and moisture was at the machined shafts.

Anyone know what the rust preventer was ?

 

[GRW]

I've seen people use chainsaw bar oil...
You know how sticky and hard to get rid of that stuff is.
Warm it up and spray it on.

(After cleaning with Kero) Chainsaw chain oil was all I used to use to lube my motorcycle chain (I got told once that expensive Scottoil is just rebounded CS-oil - and I ran CS oil through a Scottoiler for many, many thousands of miles without issue).
It's good "anti-fling" properties probably do work pretty well in keeping it bonded to metalwork, so I can see it could be effective as a water/salt barrier.

 

[Onthespotwelding]

Waxoyl for my vehicles, used it for years and no problems, as already said it needs to bed kept warm whilst applying.

Throw in a bit of white spirit to water it down, easier to spray it on.

A mate of mine paints grease all under his classic car (points grease from the railways)

 

[steveo3002]

Waxoyl for my vehicles, used it for years and no problems, as already said it needs to bed kept warm whilst applying.

Throw in a bit of white spirit to water it down, easier to spray it on.

whats this on a rusty car /clean car ? any treatment on previous rust spots?

 

[keithski122]

My dad used old engine oil of his vehicles................I stopped working on them after that.

 

[bricol]

I used Noxodol cavity wax on my Defender, though it was all freshly galvanized. Gets ok reviews: https://www.auson.se/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/rusttest_noxudol_700_classic_monthly_uk.pdf

The Noxudol underbody coating: https://www.auson.se/en/products/rust-protection/underbody-coating/noxudol-300/

Used it on my Lancia and Dodge a few years ago . . . time will tell . . .

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Anyone know what the rust preventer was ?

ACF-50 is pink when sprayed at first, but I've no idea how long it's been on the market?

 

[Onthespotwelding]

whats this on a rusty car /clean car ? any treatment on previous rust spots?

I only drive older cars/ vans and classics

A good jet wash underneath to remove mud ect. I remove what rust i can, then apply waxoyl everywhere I can get it.

I do this every 2 years to all my vehicles.

 

[indy4x]

A member of my extended family bought a new Mini and had it waxoyled before taking delivery, this was probably about 1980

In 93 it failed its MOT on rusty sills. I replaced the sills for him as I didn't want the local garage doing some MOT type repairs

Cut the old sills off and where the Waxoyl had coated the inside of the sills was still pristine, the bits it missed were rotten

This isn't necessarily a comment on how good Waxoly is more that a wax coating clearly protected the metalwork it had covered

Conversely, while I was at Portsmouth Poly in the 80"s, the material science depth had subjected a Mini that was Waxolyed to extensive corrosion resistance testing, it hadn't fared very well

 

[eddie49]

An earlier thread on the same topic:

Waxoyl type stuff

ok so want to coat the wheel arch areas , inside sills , underbody etc on my 2002 Audi TT and Allso engine Bay Area my Dacia sandero 2005 with very thin engine bay paint .:rolleyes: (It was cheap to buy so no complaints really :whistle:) So waxoyl and tetroseal (carplan stuff) is £25...

www.mig-welding.co.uk

Nobody has mentioned the 'rust converter' type products like Fertan, which is not too expensive if you buy in gallons.

But I would brush of the worst rust, paint on a couple of coats of Fertan (which is happy being used on damp steel), then thickly apply lanolin, purchased in the cheapest bulk tubs available.

Lanoguard, or whatever, type products were invented in New Zealand (60,000,000 sheep I believe...) by a bright spark in marketing, who had a eureka moment and worked out a way to sell lanolin with a brand name and a 1000% mark-up. In my opinion do not sue me..

I am getting good results from "FLAG RC1", a black rust converter paint, sold by Promain UK Limited. Apply two coats, followed by a top coat, e.g. oil-based enamel.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Some of the Ex Army guys may know.

The Army did a low pressure kit, in two parts to preserve the vechicals for long term stowage.
You applied (normaly under Jankers) the rust killer. Allowed it to dry. They this smelly wax like substance was applied.

Can any one recall it's name?

As I am sure it will turn up in a MOD sale.

It ******** up you green zip up overalls.

 

[charlysays]

Use bilt hamber. Expose all the rust as much as possible, might require peeling back underseal etc, get all loose muck and rust flakes off... Make sure it's fairly dry, best done in summer. Apply a primer coat of dynax s50 thinned a bit with white spirit then layer it up with neat s50. Clean down with a hose and reapply yearly.
I bet it'll keep the car going a lot longer than you think.
Thoroughly applied anti corrosive waxes which are topped up every now and then can slow the corrosion so a snails pace. I've seen it extend life by 10 yrs or more.

Obviously when you eventually have to weld it it's nasty to work on. At that point id consider a thorough steam cleaning, repair and rewax.

 

[steveo3002]

i think anyone treating with something but cleaning it up and retreating yearly is onto a winner

its when folk cake underseal onto an already frilly car then assume its done and no more work needed ever that you get the tales of xyz is rubbish

ive got into the habit of a wheels off jet wash in the summer months then go around and treat it before winter kicks in

 

[johnyev]

Acf50

Great, even miraculous is aluminium & on other alloys but expensive for steel.