gaz1
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not practical for a hill climb with a forklift and a hill that needs really low gear in a wagon going up hill
- Thread starter frank horton
- Start date
This particular application is whatever "square" fits into a 7x21 grid (2x7 lots of 3.5m squares). Each square therefore will always have unobstructed access with an open side to the boundary.
If you suggest each pour does not set to the height of the shuttering, then don't use the shuttering (which was my original premise - you wanted to use k form shuttering though) I was suggesting you could use the first batch of set concrete (the black squares) as if it were shuttering and just pour up to the finished surface. That also accounts for your slump/surface tension issue because you are using the actual surface and not the shuttering.
Human error is always going to exist wherever you have to compromise on the size of the pour remembering it is access to large volumes of concrete mix which is the fundamental problem here. It is a large surface so it inherently has a larger surface to "clean off" not sure how changing the shape helps if you're concerned about area.
There are no bridges or ramps (as above) and I don't understand what you mean by a snake pattern unless you mean a long straight section (3.5x7m all in one go. Even if you did that, it will still require crack control joints which is extra work1Q1 compared to alternating slabs.
Incidentally, I am very aware my comments look like I am arguing when actually I am probably not understanding. I am not seeing the pros/cons correctly which is why I am attempting to understand why my initial thoughts are wrong. This is what I saw based on the first post:
The square checkerboard on the left compared to the OP suggesting he was going to do several single 7m lines (snakes??) on the right.
The one on the left will work well in principal it's just in reality it will just make a lot more work and triple the chances of it going wrong and being uneven floor
The best way would be strips side to side.
Therefore each poor only has a single joint to tally up with. Next best would be the one on the right as it has a maximum of 2 joints to line up with at any time.
And it doesn't matter whether you are using existing slabs or k forms or shuttering it is very difficult to get the to perfectly line up height wise and requires a lot off experience and time. Therefore by adding more joints you are increasing difficulty
Also the k forms will help as they give the option of peeling out the top of them after setting and filling with mastic to try and hide imperfections in the joint.
Finally the op says the roofs is on so therefore I would presume either sides are too or at the minimum there is probably some kind of wind brace in places that will get in the way.
I think it's just experience that would say that's an awkward way to poor it. And will increase the chances of mucking up, even for an experienced gang.
get yourself a power float, I've done some really nice floors with them and I'm no expert
you lay the slab, wait till it's firm enough to walk on without sinking then power float it, the longer you do it the better the finish you get, you float it, wait an hour, float it again etc. etc.
what's the weather like where you are? very hot? dry?
I'd go stripes like your second picture, do one each day - if the last slab you did is still a little wet you'll be able to float it into the next one and it'll make a much better job, otherwise you'll have a ridge/high spot between each slab
7m is pretty wide but if you can put some battens down the sides that you're happy to leave in, then you can just tamp off those and make each slab as big as you like/feel you can do in one day
needs some joins so it doesn't crack anyway
I've done 6m wide like that and it worked well
I bought a vibration motor on ebay, screwed it into a 6m bit of timber and dragged that across the top to tamp it down.... worked really really well - that was with me and one young lad on the other end, a couple of extra lads and it would be easy
personally I'd split it into about 5 slabs, but you can always start and see how it does, make them a bit smaller if it's taking too long / too much work
if it's hot where you are it'll go off quicker, I'd buy some retarder and mix that in - tip it into your water butt instead of trying to tip it into each mix, that'll make floating it much easier
I did some here in the winder (inside a unit) and I could still power float it the next day
you lay the slab, wait till it's firm enough to walk on without sinking then power float it, the longer you do it the better the finish you get, you float it, wait an hour, float it again etc. etc.
what's the weather like where you are? very hot? dry?
I'd go stripes like your second picture, do one each day - if the last slab you did is still a little wet you'll be able to float it into the next one and it'll make a much better job, otherwise you'll have a ridge/high spot between each slab
7m is pretty wide but if you can put some battens down the sides that you're happy to leave in, then you can just tamp off those and make each slab as big as you like/feel you can do in one day
needs some joins so it doesn't crack anyway
I've done 6m wide like that and it worked well
I bought a vibration motor on ebay, screwed it into a 6m bit of timber and dragged that across the top to tamp it down.... worked really really well - that was with me and one young lad on the other end, a couple of extra lads and it would be easy
personally I'd split it into about 5 slabs, but you can always start and see how it does, make them a bit smaller if it's taking too long / too much work
if it's hot where you are it'll go off quicker, I'd buy some retarder and mix that in - tip it into your water butt instead of trying to tip it into each mix, that'll make floating it much easier
I did some here in the winder (inside a unit) and I could still power float it the next day
500e
Always buy fire insurance a flood is a hard start
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No wayCheaper to buy a helicopter.
Screwdriver
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No way
How much would it cost per mile to construct a ski lift?
500e
Always buy fire insurance a flood is a hard start
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Think ski lift was design suggestion not full blown build.
A good Used MD500e is around £600k up according to spec a new one last time we asked started at £1.25M that was some years ago
Hourly cost Inc pilot with long line experience £6/800 pH could be higher now
A good Used MD500e is around £600k up according to spec a new one last time we asked started at £1.25M that was some years ago
Hourly cost Inc pilot with long line experience £6/800 pH could be higher now
Pete.
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What is all this talk about helicopters, ski lifts and conveyors? The first two are unfeasibly impractical not to mention expensive and half a mile of conveyor is going to take more effort than knocking the gear up by hand, not to mention the logistics of powering all the sections. Anyone ever used a portable conveyor? They are a royal PITA. Then how are you going to get all the sun-baked concrete mess off them before it all cures? Bad enough cleaning out a mixer let a alone 1 mile of belt and several hundred rollers.
Let's have some sensible suggestions please.
Let's have some sensible suggestions please.
500e
Always buy fire insurance a flood is a hard start
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Other Daniel
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Move house ?
octo0072000
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sounds like a free holiday accommodation for a few lads and get it done
8ob
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Blobber
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I would offer but dont have a passport and at 57 I definately couldnt mix that anyhow!
Screwdriver
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Yeah, I was highlighting the absurdity of suggesting a ski lift by suggesting a helicopter would be cheaper and easier despite also being absurd.
gaz1
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only suggestions anyway but he could use the conveyer from the dual mixers instead of wheel barrowering it
ive found some old pics of the 18 guage angle iron track system
now ive seen this in use up to when i was 13 we even went near it but stayed away when it was working was loverly and warm walking past those kilns in winter as they was near the roadside passed the whole yard on way to school
this pic is the working gear side housed in the top shed note the chain does not touch the ground it just loops between between them pulling tight when in use
the digger filled the right hopper the second man collected said kart wheeled it over and fitted the spare kart to go back onto the chain at equal distance or near whilst the other man filled the kart was done by eye not by weight
it was the same at the top end with a spare kart as that loaded into a tipper wheel and spun the kart upside down to eject the clay
the monkey steps behind suited its name was only fenced in on oneside we used to climb over it or go under it via the hill side
Surely the only real option is to amass your materials over a fair period of time by Landrover or whatever you can get up there, and build some sort of a batching plant - just a big mixer and chutes - and when everything is eventually in place hire a gang in (or bribe mates with free wine and women)
I'm your age and I wouldn't for a minute consider laying a slab that size myself - there isn't enough ibuprofen in the world to fix that back ache !
I'm your age and I wouldn't for a minute consider laying a slab that size myself - there isn't enough ibuprofen in the world to fix that back ache !
gaz1
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the user could do with a homemade tractor
as you could get more out of as ive looked at them and couldnt get round the pto shaft
heres the plans for homemade tractors, one note these things can use cultivator engines or 2 stroke engines
title
www.countryplans.com
diesel engines are hard to find
gaz1
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living out in the sticks it would be the first things i built just to make life so much easier
tractor and digger
cant aford them then build them
as the tractor has a pump you can then use this
or build another which id probably build as more usage out of it
the point of living out in the sticks is get ready for when you need them as when your older its pay for it
theres plenty of users on here with alot of land and some do have them but i cant see why you dont have this handy thing built
all parts homemade all fully usable
i posted it in 2019
tractor and digger
cant aford them then build them
as the tractor has a pump you can then use this
or build another which id probably build as more usage out of it
the point of living out in the sticks is get ready for when you need them as when your older its pay for it
theres plenty of users on here with alot of land and some do have them but i cant see why you dont have this handy thing built
all parts homemade all fully usable
i posted it in 2019
Towable Backhoe/ Digger
Hi Im after doing a bit of landscaping/ extension building / general to old to throw a shovel ! Im thinking about a sub 750 kg backhoe . I know a mini micro digger is easier / better on hire .... but over time I think can get my cash back easier even with a foreigner here there ! and saves me...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
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