- Thread starter malcolm
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Muggins the Mug
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i use weldability superweld at £7 for 5kg......yeeeaaaahhhh
Hi bawjaws,
Where do you source them from?
Regards,
Ian.
It's the Monday before Christmas and the family have started to arrive so I decamped to the barn ASAP this morning. 
Thought I'd make a start on my new bench so chopped up a few bits of metal and then decided to do something different and dust off the old oil-cooled and see what was what. As it turns out it took me a while to figure out what exactly was what as the majority of the markings have disappeared. A swift application of a little brake cleaner soon revealed that it's a Cytringan and that it'll run on 240, 400 and 415 volts. That, unfortunately, is all I could work out. 
I should probably point out that I have done this before but I was probably about eight at the time...
Nevertheless I had a go at running some beads on some 6mm plate with some 6013s that are probably the best part of a century old (they're my dad's). Having unstuck the rod from the metal for the nth time I gave up and decided to see what the inverter could do.
Quite a lot was the answer! It's almost impossible to stick the rod to the sheet and once you're going you'd have to be trying hard to stop it. The only thing I miss is the complete silence of the oil-cooled. I gave it a go on AC and DC to see for myself what the difference was. Running on plate flat on the bench (1G?) I couldn't discern much difference. It's noisier on AC and the bead appears to be flatter but other than that it's the same. Not so when it comes to a joint though. I attempted a butt and a fillet and DC was definitely preferable for both. After half a dozen or so more rods I succeeded in producing a peeler which came as something of a surprise!
It took me a little while to calm down and steady my hand enough to carry on but I then, miracle of miracles, proceeded to produce several more! At this point I decided to document my achievements so ran for the camera!
Unfortunately I suspect that doing a nice weld on a flat bit of plate on the bench is rather easier than doing some proper welding but as a start I'm quite chuffed. What I have definitely discovered is that the electrickery of the inverter certainly makes the welder's life a bit easier.
Thought I'd make a start on my new bench so chopped up a few bits of metal and then decided to do something different and dust off the old oil-cooled and see what was what. As it turns out it took me a while to figure out what exactly was what as the majority of the markings have disappeared. A swift application of a little brake cleaner soon revealed that it's a Cytringan and that it'll run on 240, 400 and 415 volts. That, unfortunately, is all I could work out. I should probably point out that I have done this before but I was probably about eight at the time...Nevertheless I had a go at running some beads on some 6mm plate with some 6013s that are probably the best part of a century old (they're my dad's
). Having unstuck the rod from the metal for the nth time I gave up and decided to see what the inverter could do. Quite a lot was the answer! It's almost impossible to stick the rod to the sheet and once you're going you'd have to be trying hard to stop it. The only thing I miss is the complete silence of the oil-cooled. I gave it a go on AC and DC to see for myself what the difference was. Running on plate flat on the bench (1G?) I couldn't discern much difference. It's noisier on AC and the bead appears to be flatter but other than that it's the same. Not so when it comes to a joint though. I attempted a butt and a fillet and DC was definitely preferable for both. After half a dozen or so more rods I succeeded in producing a peeler which came as something of a surprise!
It took me a little while to calm down and steady my hand enough to carry on but I then, miracle of miracles, proceeded to produce several more! At this point I decided to document my achievements so ran for the camera!Unfortunately I suspect that doing a nice weld on a flat bit of plate on the bench is rather easier than doing some proper welding but as a start I'm quite chuffed. What I have definitely discovered is that the electrickery of the inverter certainly makes the welder's life a bit easier.
Haha! But not yet every one a coconut, eh Matt! Si, a catepillar infestation is considerably preferable to the guano I first achieved with the oil-cooled! Seeing good results, albeit in the easiest situation, has certainly inspired me to have another go. I find it like TIG in that it's strangely adictive which I don't find with MIG. Maybe I've done too much MIG...
Seeing good results, albeit in the easiest situation, has certainly inspired me to have another go. I find it like TIG in that it's strangely adictive which I don't find with MIG. Maybe I've done too much MIG...
Last edited:
irondarren
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here is a few pics from some of these rods i obtained, some nice ones in there, and a few nasty ones lol. what might be interesting for a few learners is the amperage settings on the messer super reds, which should be about the same for most 6013's. notice the nice white unbranded box. A few there that im not sure what they are, the lastek 121's and the more weld ones.
Well I unfurled the Oxford last night. Been trying to get to grips with verticle up. And had a play about as well.
Verticle up, I went over the lower part with what was supposed to be a box weave I think its called
Going up with a whip motion seems ok, do you 'push' the weld pool or drag it? I found dragging it IE rod lower then weld pool created big dolops of weld.
It all went wrong with the weave as I lost patience.
On the flat now. All with Pheonix 3.2s Top 100 amps second 110 3rd 140 amps lower 135 amps.
More slugs then catapillars
Verticle up, I went over the lower part with what was supposed to be a box weave I think its called
Going up with a whip motion seems ok, do you 'push' the weld pool or drag it? I found dragging it IE rod lower then weld pool created big dolops of weld.
It all went wrong with the weave as I lost patience.
On the flat now. All with Pheonix 3.2s Top 100 amps second 110 3rd 140 amps lower 135 amps.
More slugs then catapillars
Pretty good effort with the vert up aero, actually you do not push the weld, you are basically allowing it to fuse pieces together, stick with xmas tree method for depositing. chase it up the joint (Gravity), tight arc length and, remember to pause slightly at each edge of the weld, approx 10 degree lead angle. If it looks like you are going to burn through, then whip the rod to side of joint to help prevent this.
Around 115 amps based on 3.2 6mm plate for the down hand runs, but I dare say make of rod may require a slight adjustment one way or the other.
Cheers............
Around 115 amps based on 3.2 6mm plate for the down hand runs, but I dare say make of rod may require a slight adjustment one way or the other.
Cheers............
I run as tight as I can to 'arc out' going up, just seems more natural, but bloody tricky on an AC buzz box. Increasing the arc length produces 'lumps' of weld.
I take my work round to a local coded welder when I get stuck (and when he needs a laugh). I find it instructive to hear where I'm going wrong.
I take my work round to a local coded welder when I get stuck (and when he needs a laugh). I find it instructive to hear where I'm going wrong.
wallopadonkey
Expert Grinder !
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been following this with glee i just posted my first pics in a separate thread just got a cpl questions
i am using oerlikon overcord z 3.2mm all positional rods although just gonna be using them on the bench
on the pad you were talking about are you basicly covering the pad over and over again with weld until it is an inch thick or something and would a 3in square piece of 5 mm be ok for this?
i am using oerlikon overcord z 3.2mm all positional rods although just gonna be using them on the bench
on the pad you were talking about are you basicly covering the pad over and over again with weld until it is an inch thick or something and would a 3in square piece of 5 mm be ok for this?
welding is my gift
pre-moderated
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the only thing i would suggest is thin metak because if you canstick weld thin metal the thick stuff will come easy i learned on 0.8 it wasnt easy but im a really good stick welder from it but when it comes to holding the lance just do whatevers more comfortable and easy for you when you put your rod in the holder bend the rod either curve it or straight down from the lance thats what your supposed to do especially curving it because this loosens up the flux of the rod and you do get a bit of a better weld
well thats what i think and the man who taught me and hes been doing it for 48 years
well thats what i think and the man who taught me and hes been doing it for 48 yearsI'm curious to rod diameter and spec you used while MMA welding .8 material, carbon I assume?
I'm also very curious as why manipulating the rod by bending/curving benefits weld quality by loosening flux, welder does not want flux loose (even if this was possible) care to explain in more detail please?
Cheers..........
I'm also very curious as why manipulating the rod by bending/curving benefits weld quality by loosening flux, welder does not want flux loose (even if this was possible) care to explain in more detail please?
Cheers..........
gavuk
artful-bodger
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Only people i've send bend the rod ,have been more interested in minimising rod/hand movement than loosening the flux.i'm sure others on here would be interested in seeing some pics of the 0.8mm,after all the talk on here about mig against arc on thin material,by the way i do bend the rod ,but not the flux...Gav
Agrees with Gav, bending rod is done to suit the welder for whatever task is being undertaken and, to make life easier for him/her. Flux loosening, why have it there to loosen and, maybe fall off during runs!
.8, yeah me too, even with backing using a 1.6 rod would test a really good MMA welder!
.8, yeah me too, even with backing using a 1.6 rod would test a really good MMA welder!
