This is my 4th time practicing. It's 18 gauge sheet metal. mig 140amp 110v Flux core .030 wire. How am I doing? Do I have enough penetration? All the videos I see have the welds looking the same on the back side I can't seem to get it like that. Is the white stuff on the back from the flux or the metal not being cleaned enough?
- Thread starter wolfy1091
- Start date
I'm making tacks. 18 gauge is 1.2mm according to google. I'm practing to repair my car's quarter panels. I'm starting on 18 gauge then I'm gonna drop down to 20 gauge when I get good enough. I'ts a 140 amp welder I'm using 16 volts and around 170 for wire speed. I tried lowering the voltage but it didn't seem to through fully. when I rised the voltage to 16.5 the weld concave in ,in the center
It's really hard (for me anyway - I'm an occasional hobby welder) with thin stuff like 0.8mm car panels & 1mm plate to get good penetration without blowing through, even when doing the "tack & move" method.
Your pics suggest a decently strong weld to me, & without heat distortion - I'd say you're doing alright!
(Yes its a bit easier on 1.2mm, but it's a solid start IMO
)
Your pics suggest a decently strong weld to me, & without heat distortion - I'd say you're doing alright!
(Yes its a bit easier on 1.2mm, but it's a solid start IMO
)
8ob
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You are doing ok Wolfy, using flux core on thin material isnt easy. Try doing runs rather that stop/start spots, if you play with the setting you should be able to do runs.
This is very thin unprepped metal. If you push forward and draw back on the run it's less inclined to blow through, note where the puddle is.
Shedendman
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Fluxcore
if there slag then you drag
if there slag then you drag
Mark 2
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No doubt in my mind.
I ending up buy the tank of gas today was $168 after tax filled 40cf tank. While I was fixing some surface rust from cracked that the bodyshop I brought it to 10 years ago did. I was scrapping body off and found a lot more surface rust and a small hole that was fulled in with bondo. I'm cleaning what rust i can see and gonna epoxy primer it. I bought bondo glass to fill the hole for now supposed to be good for upto a 1/2". I think the hole is a quarter inch. I'm gonna start practicing with gas. I found eastwood had magnatic copper backings . I'm gonna pick that up soon. What gas flow rate do you guys recommend I'm gonna be working outside?
addjunkie
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Working outside with gas can be difficult, as any wind blows your gas shield away allowing air to contaminate the weld. Youll need to set up some kind of wind break to shield the work area as best you can.
Arc Welding: Getting gas flow right can make or break your weld
Unsure where to start when it comes to shielding gas flow rates for arc welding? Discover what you must do for a safe and better weld
www.boconline.co.uk
Don't have a choice but to work outsideWorking outside with gas can be difficult, as any wind blows your gas shield away allowing air to contaminate the weld. Youll need to set up some kind of wind break to shield the work area as best you can.
Arc Welding: Getting gas flow right can make or break your weld
Unsure where to start when it comes to shielding gas flow rates for arc welding? Discover what you must do for a safe and better weld
Erie Fred
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Well then as indicated above, tarp the thing.
I found magnet wind shields but they are $180 each. Do you using few these flag holders with a welding screen would work?
addjunkie
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Last time I did it, I used masking tape and some fire blanket type stuff. All your trying to do is stop the air turbulence around the work area.
Scaffold tents, Gazebos, portable garages, or any old sheet will do.
Scaffold tents, Gazebos, portable garages, or any old sheet will do.
Erie Fred
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Harbor Freight sells round magnets (with a hole in the middle) for $3.00, Home depot sells large clips for $1.00
Bolt a clip on a magnet (thru the hole) make up 5-8 of them, use a simple "blue tarp".
I found the magnets. Could you post a link to the clips your talking about?
Erie Fred
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