Lift TIG Issues

[GEH2025]

I started with a flux core welder, worked OK but got tired of the splatter.
I purchased a VEVOR MIG Welder, 3 in 1 270 Amp Inverter Welding Machine. Can only TIG steel. The tungsten keeps sticking to the metal, I barley strike the metal and tungsten sticks to the metal, using 15CFH argon. My first time doing TIG and I thought there was a delay before the arc starts after you scratch the metal and lift. I'm constantly regringing the tungsten tip. I'm a hobbist with not a lot of experiance with welding but getting better. I don't know if it's me or the welder with ths TIG issue? The metal is preped and cleaned.

 

[Shedendman]

Its says on here

https://www.vevor.com/multi-function-welder-c_10062/vevor-mig-welder-welding-machine-270a-mig-mma-tig-3-in-1-welder-combo-110v-220v-p_010752182768

Its an AC not DC welder,i'm no expert in tig but i'm pretty sure you need DC
I will/might be corrected of course

 

[Morrisman]

AC is for aluminium, to aid the cleaning process. So I’ve been told.
I can’t imagine that would stop it working on steel, but check you have you polarities right on the earth/handset.

 

[GEH2025]

This is a IGBT inverter welder. From what I remember, it can't TIG aluminum because it's not AC or DC, don't remember which AC or DC supports aluminum.

 

[carbon]

From the data plate on the rear of the machine in the images in the link @Shedendman provided it looks like is DC only. Are you changing the polarity to dcen for tig?

 

[GEH2025]

This is a IGBT inverter welder, I have no markings on the back stating DC only. The TIG is attached to the negative port, ground to positive. I see no references referring to AC or DC, it doesn't weld aluminum. So far I'm not a fan of lift TIG. I'll have to keep at it and try different ways to start the arc.

 

[E T]

I bet it's scratch start TIG and not lift TIG as that link says.
With scratch start TIG the tungsten is always live. With lift TIG the electronics ups the voltage and amps after you lift the tungsten of the material after making initial contact.

 

[GEH2025]

I bet it's scratch start TIG and not lift TIG as that link says.
With scratch start TIG the tungsten is always live. With lift TIG the electronics ups the voltage and amps after you lift the tungsten of the material after making initial contact.

I think you may be right, it's supposed to be lift TIG but acts like the scratch.

 

[E T]

That's the Chinese for you. The cheap stuff often doesn't do what it says on the tin.
I bet it won't get to the advertised 270A max as well.

 

[Munkul]

That's the Chinese for you. The cheap stuff often doesn't do what it says on the tin.
I bet it won't get to the advertised 270A max as well.

I wholeheartedly agree, there's no way it will do 270 amps as advertised, it's physically impossible.
Its a cheap chinese welder that's advertised on exaggeration (being kind here). You get what you pay for.

Guessing it runs the amps it can run, fairly ok though, undoubtedly it'll stick weld better than a buzzbox So its not a terrible machine. It just is what it is.

 

[hotponyshoes]

Work out if it is scratch start or lift starts
Both methods work fine once you know what you are using but they won't if your using the wrong method for the process

 

[GEH2025]

The MIG part works great I'll probably never use the stick, might just to try it out. I new it was knock off but I use it for hobbies not real work so I can't justify the cost of a real unit. Restoring an off road buggy, engine upgrade just for enjoyment. You all have a Happy Holiday.

 

[Robert Weaver]

I started with a cheap Clarke tig inverter, with scratch start. Use a short length of copper plate next to the weld joint and started on copper first. Never had a problem with sticking.

 

[chrismac]

So out of interest, when you commit set the point of the tungsten on the metal and roll onto the ceramic does it either bend the tungsten, break a lump of the end or just get all nasty, if so its obviously not lift arc, you need to commit to lift arc. Stopping is never nice unless you can keep close to the machine and screw the amps down, the benefit of a auto mask, possible on bench work.

Scratch is never going to be very nice. here you need to be quick and try not to stick the tungsten on the job. stopping same as above.

 

[hotponyshoes]

I've got an ewm mig welder that has a tig option. Think it's lift tig but not sure?

Appreciate that's not a cheap mig but it works very well as a tig when you use it correctly. Try to use it wrong (ie, scratch start on a lift start machine and it's a nightmare.

I reckon if you work out what yours actually is you'll get along ok.

A dedicated HF start tig makes life a lot more pleasant though

 

[premmington]

I bet it's scratch start TIG and not lift TIG as that link says.
With scratch start TIG the tungsten is always live. With lift TIG the electronics ups the voltage and amps after you lift the tungsten of the material after making initial contact.

1. Lift Tig - put tungsten on work piece lift it for arc ignition

2. Scratch start - wave filler wire at work piece and tungsten and create the arc ignition

3. HF start - press button on torch and noise starts and ignition happens.


I have two TIG sets that will do lift and I like it...

 

[chrismac]

1. Lift Tig - put tungsten on work piece lift it for arc ignition

2. Scratch start - wave filler wire at work piece and tungsten and create the arc ignition

3. HF start - press button on torch and noise starts and ignition happens.


I have two TIG sets that will do lift and I like it...

Would you agree, number 2 Scratch start , you need to do more than just wave the filler and tungsten ,you need the tungsten to make contact at what ever the amps is pre-set to, the lightest of touches if your lucky the point will stay on your tungsten for a few starts, then its off to the grinder for a sharpen.

Lift arc is excellent as you say, Miller 304 CC/CV machines is all we had for X-ray standard butt welds with tungsten inclusions not an issue, a torch slider so the amps were low when the arc was started helped.