- Thread starter Tractor Dave
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Tractor Dave
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I think work might have some scrap hydraulics about, have to have a route about! Although i might have to use new stuff as its for my uni dissertation, not my "home project" but i have been approached by a couple of people to build log splitters for them!
drythropple
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- 23
surely, if you are using your tractor hydraulics, there is no need for a pressure relief valve as the tractor system will already have an integral valve
metalspanner
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things you should not forget is that under no circumstances should the operator
A, be able to operate the mechanism single handed (ie one hand on the log other on the control valve) because according to h&s you will cut your hand off, because we are idiots.
B, in the event of a hydraulic system failure (burst hose, exploding control valve block etc) should the operator be exposed to hydraulic fluid under pressure, this I am in favor of because I have seen fluid injected into the skin, and it s not pretty and is dangerous to boot.
this means all hoses etc must be shielded.
I would personally have a prv fitted with the spool block to give an element of safety in case the knife should strike a knot or tight grained, it may be a pain to get off, but at least the machine will not self destruct itself due to overzealous use.
One Idea I have had for a logsplitter is to make the blade bypass the anvil (in other words allow a vee for the blade to go down into) this would virtually eliminate a jammed log, the alternative to this has always been to put a bit of wood under, or get busy with a hammer and knock it off.
Hopefully this will be usefull.
A, be able to operate the mechanism single handed (ie one hand on the log other on the control valve) because according to h&s you will cut your hand off, because we are idiots.
B, in the event of a hydraulic system failure (burst hose, exploding control valve block etc) should the operator be exposed to hydraulic fluid under pressure, this I am in favor of because I have seen fluid injected into the skin, and it s not pretty and is dangerous to boot.
this means all hoses etc must be shielded.
I would personally have a prv fitted with the spool block to give an element of safety in case the knife should strike a knot or tight grained, it may be a pain to get off, but at least the machine will not self destruct itself due to overzealous use.
One Idea I have had for a logsplitter is to make the blade bypass the anvil (in other words allow a vee for the blade to go down into) this would virtually eliminate a jammed log, the alternative to this has always been to put a bit of wood under, or get busy with a hammer and knock it off.
Hopefully this will be usefull.
To remove stuck logs I pull the ram back up & "fit" a previously split lob between the stuck log & the ram housing.
It would be simple to fit a perm "arm" to do the same job or have the ram head pull back inside a housing.
Using a lower V will work but will also allow people to split across the grain which will stain things.
It would be simple to fit a perm "arm" to do the same job or have the ram head pull back inside a housing.
Using a lower V will work but will also allow people to split across the grain which will stain things.
Tractor Dave
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Well i forgot all about this thread..... but here is what i came up with...
Works better than I expected, and its not exactly light
Works better than I expected, and its not exactly light
pidgeon chit welder
sticking metal since 1962
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- 961
Well i forgot all about this thread..... but here is what i came up with...
View attachment 17742
Works better than I expected, and its not exactly light
dave , I've only just seen your splitter.
Thoughts for future ones perhaps.
If a log is not cut square ended it is likely to fly out for it will sit angled on the foot plate.
Consider the advantages of having the splitter horizontal and have a metal " Vee" to lay logs into as it is quicker to drop a big log in the splitter than mess around trying to get it to stand up right .there was also a facility to hang a weighted pair of chains over the log being split so that if there was a branch off / fork in the log it would not easily jump off the bed .
I have helped cut up several apple orchards including the stumps after dragging them out with a 30 tonne Caterpilair winch & seasoning for 2 years , we used a bob cat to drop the whole stump onto a sliding carriage and put it across a 48 inch three belt driven saw blade on the back of the tractor to get them down to manageable lumps ready to split as needed.
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I'd have thought the jamming would occur whilst not in contact like you say as the log will level the blade up....i think!
Also, does anyone know what hydraulic pressure a classic tractor (1964 era) work at???
Dave
My 1954 Fordson Major pressure relief valve is supposed to blow off at 2200 psi max (it never does as the pump is worn !!) My 1974 Ford 4000 is I believe set for 3000 psi
1969 Vernon
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- 70
log splitter
Very nice the second one looks better than the first one And the first one was very nice Really like the 3 point hitch and no motor to keep up. Alread have a tractor. Great job Vernon
Very nice the second one looks better than the first one And the first one was very nice Really like the 3 point hitch and no motor to keep up. Alread have a tractor. Great job Vernon
