Colin Barron
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- 224
i used Buck and Hickman north shields, for bearings and belts, they can get 'gates belts' at a decent price.
- Thread starter Gazz292
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Gazz292
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i went for the 'standard' clearance bearings, of the open type the same as the originals (tho i guess at the least the small one has been replaced in this motor's 50 year life)
Ohhh. i knew there was something else i wanted... a pair of belts, as the ones i have.... one is slightly longer than the other.. could see it flapping about when running, tho i guess this little pump really doesn't need 2 belts.
Ohhh. i knew there was something else i wanted... a pair of belts, as the ones i have.... one is slightly longer than the other.. could see it flapping about when running, tho i guess this little pump really doesn't need 2 belts.
Gazz292
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well that was fun.
My first time changing bearings in an induction motor, i got 2 x FAG branded bearings from bearing boys, they stated 'German-made FAG brand' which is assumed was where they'd have been made.
i noticed the 6205 bearing had thinner sides to the outer and inner race, and i've just noticed where it was made... portugal... same as the one that failed, which i didn't want.
The 6203 looked the same as the one i took off (i will have to dig in the bin for the box tomorrow to see if this was a portugal made one too)
So i fitted the bearings, re-assembled the motor, and ran it up,
It ran quiet-ish for about 20 seconds then started making a noise as if something was catching, a regular ticking noise.
i took the motor apart and re-assembled it loads of times
I pushed more fresh grease into the bearing races, but not packing loads in the cups that the bearings sit in, as i know over greasing bearings can cause issues.
Each time i'd get about 20 seconds of quiet-ish running, then this noise ... similar to when you put a card in your bike spokes as a kid.
The bearings were seated properly, the 6205 end bell has a rubber washer in the cup the bearing sits in, making it impossible to overload it i think.
i put the rotor in the lathe and is was running true, nothing was showing as rubbing, no muck caught in the stator slots etc.
I finally figured out the noise was from a bearing by placing the end bells on the bearings each in turn whilst holding the bare rotor, and when i spun the drive side end bell i figured it was the 6205 bearing making the noise.
So i pulled it off the shaft and put the original back on (the 'made in Switzerland' one) re-assembled the motor and it's running quietly.
My first time changing bearings in an induction motor, i got 2 x FAG branded bearings from bearing boys, they stated 'German-made FAG brand' which is assumed was where they'd have been made.
i noticed the 6205 bearing had thinner sides to the outer and inner race, and i've just noticed where it was made... portugal... same as the one that failed, which i didn't want.
The 6203 looked the same as the one i took off (i will have to dig in the bin for the box tomorrow to see if this was a portugal made one too)
So i fitted the bearings, re-assembled the motor, and ran it up,
It ran quiet-ish for about 20 seconds then started making a noise as if something was catching, a regular ticking noise.
i took the motor apart and re-assembled it loads of times
I pushed more fresh grease into the bearing races, but not packing loads in the cups that the bearings sit in, as i know over greasing bearings can cause issues.
Each time i'd get about 20 seconds of quiet-ish running, then this noise ... similar to when you put a card in your bike spokes as a kid.
The bearings were seated properly, the 6205 end bell has a rubber washer in the cup the bearing sits in, making it impossible to overload it i think.
i put the rotor in the lathe and is was running true, nothing was showing as rubbing, no muck caught in the stator slots etc.
I finally figured out the noise was from a bearing by placing the end bells on the bearings each in turn whilst holding the bare rotor, and when i spun the drive side end bell i figured it was the 6205 bearing making the noise.
So i pulled it off the shaft and put the original back on (the 'made in Switzerland' one) re-assembled the motor and it's running quietly.
Colin Barron
Member
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- 224
If it has a fan refit new bearing, checking it is seated correctly and run it without the fan.
Gazz292
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- 218
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- Scarborough
Wasn't the fan making contact, the fan is just a plastic jobbie that goes on the end of the shaft externally, i never even got to putting the fan cover / air deflector piece on due to the noise.
The motor made the noise bare.. no fan and no pulley fitted.
I even tried re-assembling the motor and leaving the bearing cup screws / nuts slightly loose, the idea to tighten them as the motor rotated, but it made the noise with them loose or tight, with the rubber washer left out etc.
Only thing that quietened it was putting the old bearing in,
I got the noise when i held the bare rotor in my hand with the new bearing fully seated on the shaft, i placed the end bell on the bearing and when i spun the end bell 'tik-tik-tik-tik'
Pulled the new bearing off, put the old on on and did the same, and no noise at all.
The difference in the 2 bearings :
The motor made the noise bare.. no fan and no pulley fitted.
I even tried re-assembling the motor and leaving the bearing cup screws / nuts slightly loose, the idea to tighten them as the motor rotated, but it made the noise with them loose or tight, with the rubber washer left out etc.
Only thing that quietened it was putting the old bearing in,
I got the noise when i held the bare rotor in my hand with the new bearing fully seated on the shaft, i placed the end bell on the bearing and when i spun the end bell 'tik-tik-tik-tik'
Pulled the new bearing off, put the old on on and did the same, and no noise at all.
The difference in the 2 bearings :
Gazz292
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- 218
- Location
- Scarborough
Dug the box for the 6203 bearing out the bin :
So much for "German-made FAG brand" but i guess it's worded in such a way as that's just pointing out FAG is a German made brand, but you will get one made in portugual and one made in korea and nowt you can do about it.
So much for "German-made FAG brand" but i guess it's worded in such a way as that's just pointing out FAG is a German made brand, but you will get one made in portugual and one made in korea and nowt you can do about it.
Colin Barron
Member
- Messages
- 224
Maybe try an SKF or NSK bearing, buy an open type.
Gazz292
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- 218
- Location
- Scarborough
after waiting the 15+ hours for the 'Sterling brake and air line sealant' to 'cure', i ran the compressor upto full pressure today,
The danfoss PS-15 pressure switch is so nice compared to the £10 ebay cheapies i'm used to, set the turn off pressure to 135 psi, then set the differential so it cuts back in at about 115 psi.
The safety valve is set for 150 psi, it's an adjustable type with a set screw to prevent it being wound down tighter 'accidently'
But i noticed it leaks ever so slightly, i lost 10 psi over about 2 hours (my current air lines and the direct drive compressor will hold pressure for well over a week)
Wonder if the valves seat is replaceable, or if i should just buy a new valve,
looking for one a little better quality than the £7 ones on ebay / amazon with the red plastic cap and keyring pull, but maybe not quite as high quality as the TÜV certified ones at over £50.
:
Also been designing a control box for this compressor, push button on and off control via a contactor (as i have now)
but with some lights to show when the compressor and dog house fans are running (fan runs on for a few minutes after the compressor stops),
a manual condensate / blow down valve button, which lights up when the timer operates it, and i have a 'recycling timer' module in my box of bits, so will use that to operate the valves solenoid so it's adjustable from inside the workshop.
Then there is the DOL starter that came with the compressor, that will be used as it is now, the pressure switch turns the contactor in it on and off, and that provides overload protection for the motor, i wonder if there is a way to have the bulb in the off switch light up if this trips out.
The danfoss PS-15 pressure switch is so nice compared to the £10 ebay cheapies i'm used to, set the turn off pressure to 135 psi, then set the differential so it cuts back in at about 115 psi.
The safety valve is set for 150 psi, it's an adjustable type with a set screw to prevent it being wound down tighter 'accidently'
But i noticed it leaks ever so slightly, i lost 10 psi over about 2 hours (my current air lines and the direct drive compressor will hold pressure for well over a week)
Wonder if the valves seat is replaceable, or if i should just buy a new valve,
looking for one a little better quality than the £7 ones on ebay / amazon with the red plastic cap and keyring pull, but maybe not quite as high quality as the TÜV certified ones at over £50.
:
Also been designing a control box for this compressor, push button on and off control via a contactor (as i have now)
but with some lights to show when the compressor and dog house fans are running (fan runs on for a few minutes after the compressor stops),
a manual condensate / blow down valve button, which lights up when the timer operates it, and i have a 'recycling timer' module in my box of bits, so will use that to operate the valves solenoid so it's adjustable from inside the workshop.
Then there is the DOL starter that came with the compressor, that will be used as it is now, the pressure switch turns the contactor in it on and off, and that provides overload protection for the motor, i wonder if there is a way to have the bulb in the off switch light up if this trips out.
brightspark
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- yarm stockton on tees
how muchwell... maybe a little bit
Colin Barron
Member
- Messages
- 224
Have you washed the air filter and changed the oil? Are the reed valves still available, they were 30 years ago?
Gazz292
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- 218
- Location
- Scarborough
cleaned the horse hair air filter discs out the day i got it, as the outer one was caked up with what i presume was body filler dust.
Not changed the oil yet, when i do i want to run it for a bit to get it nice and warm, i think i need a non detergent 30 weight mineral oil (i used iso 32 hydraulic oil in my other compressors)
I haven't taken the heads / valve plates off (yet) i want to so i can see what the bores are like and check the valves are ok, clean any carbon out etc.
But then i'd need to make new gaskets, this pump is a small one, a T-65 (serial No:273035) so not sure if i can get a pump service set of gaskets and valves for this pump as easily as you can for the 242 models.
i did clean the inside of the tank out with a pressure washer (bought a cheap right angle lance and got all the loose rust out)
I was going to re-paint it and polish the copper pipes up, but decided not to now as it will be hidden away in a dog house behind my workshop, and for that i need to pour a larger concrete slab, remove a tree stump and so on.
Not changed the oil yet, when i do i want to run it for a bit to get it nice and warm, i think i need a non detergent 30 weight mineral oil (i used iso 32 hydraulic oil in my other compressors)
I haven't taken the heads / valve plates off (yet) i want to so i can see what the bores are like and check the valves are ok, clean any carbon out etc.
But then i'd need to make new gaskets, this pump is a small one, a T-65 (serial No:273035) so not sure if i can get a pump service set of gaskets and valves for this pump as easily as you can for the 242 models.
i did clean the inside of the tank out with a pressure washer (bought a cheap right angle lance and got all the loose rust out)
I was going to re-paint it and polish the copper pipes up, but decided not to now as it will be hidden away in a dog house behind my workshop, and for that i need to pour a larger concrete slab, remove a tree stump and so on.
