Making a Link Pipe Help

[geoffsurf]

I really need some help working out how to make a feed pipe from the pump to the tank on my compressor. The compressor is a single phase Taskmaster 150/160 litre tank with 3hp motor. The current feed pipe is very short and, because I am end of the line for electricity, the pump opens the NRV too soon before the motor is up to speed and the force of the air in the tank stalls the motor tripping the electricity switches. I have had the problem since I bought the compressor second hand and it makes it a nightmare because I have to drain the tank completely of air before I can get it to restart without stalling.

I have had the motor tested and the only way forward seems to be to create a longer link pipe so that the motor gets up to full speed before it opens the NRV. The current pipe appears to be aluminium 14mm OD with approx 1.5mm wall. The two female nuts that go on each end of the link pipe are approximately 19-20mm diameter. The pipe has flared ends to seal against the NRV valve and elbow fitting on the pump.

Is it possible to make a link pipe out of standard plumbing copper pipe. How do I flare the ends and with what tool. I can't seem to find any information on how to do this? Otherwise what are my options? I am struggling to find information on the internet and there is nowhere local I can find that can help.

Thanks

 

[gaz1]

3/4" copper fittings to 22mm
the old copper pipe was 1/2" to 15mm socket as for flaring copper pipe its easy once you heat the end up and have a sort of flaring tool for it

http://www.balkanplumbing.com/learn-how-to-flare-copper-water-tubing/

 

[rtbcomp]

An alternative method might be to connect a reservoir of some sort to the in the delivery pipe using a tee connector, you may even be able to tap into the unloading pipe with push-fit connectors.

If you use copper pipe then put a couple of coils in it, this will act as an aftercooler.

 

[Matrixx]

Larger cable feeding your compressor motor?

 

[rtbcomp]

^^ I'd go with the plumbing solution. I have a SIP compressor which gives exactly the same problem and it's less than a metre from the incoming mains to the building.

 

[gaz1]

An alternative method might be to connect a reservoir of some sort to the in the delivery pipe using a tee connector, you may even be able to tap into the unloading pipe with push-fit connectors.

If you use copper pipe then put a couple of coils in it, this will act as an aftercooler.

also a reference of an expansion tank but you may have to test to time it right

 

[geoffsurf]

gaz1 - Sorry can you explain this a little more. I'm not sure what you mean about the sizing. I spoke to a compressor spares company abouThe website link is helpful thanks.

rtbcomp - Do you mean effectively having a small compressor tank between the two ends of the link pipe. This was suggested to me by a local motor factors but I still would need to make up the pipe as above. I think that a long link pipe would probably manage to do it.

Matrixx - The cable to the compressor is 16amp cable but the electricity supply is still an issue I think.

Also I am borrowing a Laser Tools 10 piece flaring kit from a friend. Would this work for the flaring at all? When I went to a local hydraulics company to see if they could help they told me that the fitting is BSP thread but the flare conical is some sort of different standard?

https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/2943

 

[knighty]

are you sure the unloader valve is working ok?

do you get a 'woosh' noise as the compressor shuts down and it lets out the air pressure between the compressor and the valve?

 

[geoffsurf]

Yes the unloader valve/pipe is working fine. I can hear the air dump and then the valve remains open until start up again so it is not possible for pressure to build up in the link pipe again. I also took the end of the link pipe out of the receiver and left the other attached to the pump and put my thumb over the receiver end of the link pipe and tried starting the compressor a few times to see how quickly pressure builds in the link pipe. The pressure hits my thumb almost instantly so there is no time for the motor to get up to speed before opening the NRV.

 

[Rig Pig]

What about a timer and solenoid valve on a tee to keep the motor unloaded for longer?

 

[geoffsurf]

 

[gaz1]

old copper pipe is different to the new copper pipe

3/4 is the 22mm size
1/2" is the 15mm size

you can still buy fittings for these sizes

 

[geoffsurf]

old copper pipe is different to the new copper pipe

3/4 is the 22mm size
1/2" is the 15mm size

you can still buy fittings for these sizes

I was going to use the old flare nuts from the tube in the photo above as they fit fine and then just replace the pipe with a longer bit of copper pipe. So would the 15mm new copper pipe presumably be okay for this. Also any idea about the Laser flaring tool and the type of flare?

 

[rtbcomp]

...

rtbcomp - Do you mean effectively having a small compressor tank between the two ends of the link pipe. This was suggested to me by a local motor factors but I still would need to make up the pipe as above. I think that a long link pipe would probably manage to do it.

...

Yes.

 

[knighty]

you can buy coils of 15mm copper pipe, it's a bit softer than the normal straight lengths

that might be your best bet... it's already coiled for you and it's easier to bend to the shape you want.... plus it should take the vibration beter than harder pipe?

 

[geoffsurf]

you can buy coils of 15mm copper pipe, it's a bit softer than the normal straight lengths

that might be your best bet... it's already coiled for you and it's easier to bend to the shape you want.... plus it should take the vibration beter than harder pipe?

Do you know where I can buy this type of copper pipe in coils. Is it something that plumbers would stock or is it for a different use?

I am still not sure whether the flaring tool I am currently borrowing will be okay. The sizes are in imperial and I'm not sure if the flare angle is the correct one. Just would like to work it out before hand so that I don't get the pipe and then have to start looking for the tool afterwards.

 

[geoffsurf]

What about a timer and solenoid valve on a tee to keep the motor unloaded for longer?

I would rather keep it as simple and cheap as possible at the moment, as I would imagine that is quite complicated to set up.

 

[Rig Pig]

It's not that complex, worth a thought if the piping mods don't work.

 

[dobbslc]

Have you drained the tank recently?

 

[hunter27]

When I went to a local hydraulics company to see if they could help they told me that the fitting is BSP thread but the flare conical is some sort of different standard?

https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/2943

If the threads are actually BSP at both ends I would be tempted to use a couple of BSP to copper adaptors and join them up with copper pipe, then you can do what you want with it, increase it's size, extend it as long as you want and add an expansion tank in the line if required.
https://www.bes.co.uk/straight-coup...MI5tvxkdWW3AIV7bvtCh38NwR7EAQYBCABEgLDNfD_BwE

https://www.screwfix.com/p/male-cou...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CNL_9Z7WltwCFeYC0wodlKoHAw