Making tee joints in pipe

[stokessd]

Thanks guys, I found some of the earlier threads on here simply by using Gurgle to look up tube-miter. It lead me straight back to here! Got some good tips now. The application would be useful, except that I use a Mac. I wouldn't give a PC house room. I shall see if I can get a Mac App to do this. Some really neat looking joints on here. All I need to do now is weld them neatly myself. Ahh another flaw in the plan, eh?

Thanks everyone

FF

Hello everybody, I'm not a mig or welding guy, I'm a wussified bicycle brazing guy. but I did write a tube miter template generating program for the mac that may make your life easier. It's free and also included the source code if you feel adventurous and want to bend it to your specific needs.

The program is here: http://quadesl.com/cocoa/TubeMiter.dmg
or here: http://www.versiontracker.com/dyn/moreinfo/macosx/10972981

I'll be glad to continue to improve it if you folks provide me feedback on what works and doesn't work and how you'd like to see it work.

Sheldon
stokes@quadesl.com

 

[Furry Freak]

Sheldon, downloaded the dmg and installed, app wouldn't open. Any thoughts? Running Tiger not Leopard on an Intel Mac

FF

Got decent result with other net based app so far. Would be nice to have a feature that gave cutting guide for mating onto flat section. I know that's a plain angle, but you can't always get the piece into the saw!

 

[stokessd]

Sheldon, downloaded the dmg and installed, app wouldn't open. Any thoughts? Running Tiger not Leopard on an Intel Mac

FF

Got decent result with other net based app so far. Would be nice to have a feature that gave cutting guide for mating onto flat section. I know that's a plain angle, but you can't always get the piece into the saw!

I'm not sure why it doesn't open in tiger. Actually I think that the defaults framework I'm using to save the printerscaling may make it leopard or higher.

The code currently doesn't handle tubes to flat plates, but you could spoof it by making the intersecting tube very large I suppose.

if you would like to try it, email me (stokes@quadesl.com) I'll try to build the application for tiger. I need to understand what I need to change to make that work, which will be a learning experience for me.


Sheldon

 

[clevinski]

I had occasion to have to make a couple of fishmouths today and used the instructions from Blackjack's video. I made a couple practice ones first to get the feel, and then the actual ones weren't hard at all, though it took me a lot longer than it took him. One handy thing that I did, though... I had trouble marking a consistent distance from the end of the tubing (which was only about .625 inch / 16 mm OD) so that I knew where to cut. It finally occurred to me to use a plumbing pipe cutter to just score the tubing and make a line. (See photo attached of typical tool.) It worked great, and made it easier for me to make the cuts correctly.

The sad outcome is that I'm so out of practice welding that the result is too poor for me to even post here. I know... practice, practice, practice!

 

[pidgeon chit welder]

just incase the PC is dead or you are not near one.

You need a drawing board , a tee square and 90 degree set square & a pair of compasses .

Draw a circle the OD of the tube mark the circumference in at every 5 minutes of a clock .

Draw a long thin base line longer than the circunference in the horizontal below the base of the clock to one side of it draw a line and mark off the distances of the 5 mins intervals extend these lines perpendicular and then starting at 12 0Clock mark the the minutes marks off horizontal to the perpendicular lines. Yes
Where the points cross draw in the curve this will give you a paper template called a development , cut the curve and stick it on the tube mark with marker ( white elmusion & pencil?)and grind cut/file to the pencil marks . For the template through the roof same sort of thing but add a full scale cylinder drawing to the right of the crossing points and put the roof angle on the cylinder then put the minutes on the cylinder to give you the points to work from .
Again cut the template and stick it to some of the tube . cut as before place the now angled tube verticle to the roof and draw the ovoid .. pilot drill and jigsaw through etc. if it is a double skinn roof a long pilot dril through both skins is helpful .
You'll need to make a mark on the template to correctly orientate the template for cutting the second skin from above say in a true 90 degrees to the roof apex the roof apex.

It also helps if you indicate on the template which side should face the floor as well .

More than once I ended up with a 12 inch stainless lined flue in a double skinned plastic covered wriggly tinned roof with the inside hole ok but the top skin hole was 180 degrees out which was a pain to cut & file true, then fill & flash up in slashing down rain.

If you have lots of pipes to do consider making the template in wrap around flexi plastic sheet or a section of split/ cut plastic pipe made from the original paper development, for the repeated drawing around the edge wont wear like it does with a paper template. You can also add various alignment marks as & when needed . Simply slide the plastic over the pipe and mark it out

This development method can also be used to make a hole in a tube wall but you will need the internal diameter of the adjoining tube for your " clock " dimensions.

For any tin smiths, metal smiths sheet metal workers and aircraft body repairers etc.....if I have made a mistook treat me gently, it is 44 years since I did that sort of stuff at a desk and 29 since I did it in anger..

 

[Paul.]

You need a drawing board , a tee square and 90 degree set square & a pair of compasses .

Draw a circle the OD of the tube mark the circumference in at every 5 minutes of a clock .

Draw a long thin base line longer than the circunference in the horizontal below the base of the clock to one side of it draw a line and mark off the distances of the 5 mins intervals extend these lines perpendicular and then starting at 12 0Clock mark the the minutes marks off horizontal to the perpendicular lines. Yes
Where the points cross draw in the curve this will give you a paper template called a development , cut the curve and stick it on the tube mark with marker ( white elmusion & pencil?)and grind cut/file to the pencil marks . For the template through the roof same sort of thing but add a full scale cylinder drawing to the right of the crossing points and put the roof angle on the cylinder then put the minutes on the cylinder to give you the points to work from .
Again cut the template and stick it to some of the tube . cut as before place the now angled tube verticle to the roof and draw the ovoid .. pilot drill and jigsaw through etc. if it is a double skinn roof a long pilot dril through both skins is helpful .
You'll need to make a mark on the template to correctly orientate the template for cutting the second skin from above say in a true 90 degrees to the roof apex the roof apex.

It also helps if you indicate on the template which side should face the floor as well .

More than once I ended up with a 12 inch stainless lined flue in a double skinned plastic covered wriggly tinned roof with the inside hole ok but the top skin hole was 180 degrees out which was a pain to cut & file true, then fill & flash up in slashing down rain.

If you have lots of pipes to do consider making the template in wrap around flexi plastic sheet or a section of split/ cut plastic pipe made from the original paper development, for the repeated drawing around the edge wont wear like it does with a paper template. You can also add various alignment marks as & when needed . Simply slide the plastic over the pipe and mark it out

This development method can also be used to make a hole in a tube wall but you will need the internal diameter of the adjoining tube for your " clock " dimensions.

For any tin smiths, metal smiths sheet metal workers and aircraft body repairers etc.....if I have made a mistook treat me gently, it is 44 years since I did that sort of stuff at a desk and 29 since I did it in anger..

A picture may help, this is a 45 deg, pipe joint, red lines are the projections

 

[Blackjack]

You need a drawing board , a tee square and 90 degree set square & a pair of compasses .

Draw a circle the OD of the tube mark the circumference in at every 5 minutes of a clock .

Draw a long thin base line longer than the circunference in the horizontal below the base of the clock to one side of it draw a line and mark off the distances of the 5 mins intervals extend these lines perpendicular and then starting at 12 0Clock mark the the minutes marks off horizontal to the perpendicular lines. Yes
Where the points cross draw in the curve this will give you a paper template called a development , cut the curve and stick it on the tube mark with marker ( white elmusion & pencil?)and grind cut/file to the pencil marks . For the template through the roof same sort of thing but add a full scale cylinder drawing to the right of the crossing points and put the roof angle on the cylinder then put the minutes on the cylinder to give you the points to work from .
Again cut the template and stick it to some of the tube . cut as before place the now angled tube verticle to the roof and draw the ovoid .. pilot drill and jigsaw through etc. if it is a double skinn roof a long pilot dril through both skins is helpful .
You'll need to make a mark on the template to correctly orientate the template for cutting the second skin from above say in a true 90 degrees to the roof apex the roof apex.

It also helps if you indicate on the template which side should face the floor as well .

More than once I ended up with a 12 inch stainless lined flue in a double skinned plastic covered wriggly tinned roof with the inside hole ok but the top skin hole was 180 degrees out which was a pain to cut & file true, then fill & flash up in slashing down rain.

If you have lots of pipes to do consider making the template in wrap around flexi plastic sheet or a section of split/ cut plastic pipe made from the original paper development, for the repeated drawing around the edge wont wear like it does with a paper template. You can also add various alignment marks as & when needed . Simply slide the plastic over the pipe and mark it out

This development method can also be used to make a hole in a tube wall but you will need the internal diameter of the adjoining tube for your " clock " dimensions.

For any tin smiths, metal smiths sheet metal workers and aircraft body repairers etc.....if I have made a mistook treat me gently, it is 44 years since I did that sort of stuff at a desk and 29 since I did it in anger..

I was dredging my memory trying to remember how you developed a conic section a while back.

 

[Robotstar5]

I was dredging my memory trying to remember how you developed a conic section a while back.

and I was trying to forget the brainache doing those sort of things in technical drawing at school! (do they still teach it?)

 

[eil]

I used to have a little black pipefiter and pipewelders handbook or something like that also a blue metric one that was full of usefull info for things like that lent them to a fella who was going to make a trike or something of that sort never seen the books after. shame really they were very handy.

 

[pidgeon chit welder]

and I was trying to forget the brainache doing those sort of things in technical drawing at school! (do they still teach it?)

Nah, just prove you can switch the PC on and you get a BA.

When I asked ( a friends son in law ) a fully qualified surveyor of some 8 yrs to set out the bases for our farm buildings that were to be on a 1in 80 draining slope for the floors . I came back after an hour or so to find him scratching his jewels ... his batteries were flat on his theodolite and there was no fixed manhole for him to work from.

So with a 2 mtr spirit level some pegs 50 mtr steel tape ,architects lines , paper & pencil I showed him how Pythagoras would have done it whilst my lass and his wife went for some batteries.

Once the batteries were installed he checked using levelled paving slabs on sand that I had set up for him and was amazed that everything was OK ..he had never learnt how to do square roots mathematically using pencil & paper.

 

[pidgeon chit welder]

I was dredging my memory trying to remember how you developed a conic section a while back.

Very similar but I'm sure I'll be awake trying to recall it ..seem to think that the opened cylinder of the cone has to have the top & bottom reference lines and that you span off from two circles ... Now seeing as Paul is good with CAD perhaps we can con him into shoving up a piccy for us mental geriatrics to drool over

 

[Paul.]

Very similar but I'm sure I'll be awake trying to recall it ..seem to think that the opened cylinder of the cone has to have the top & bottom reference lines and that you span off from two circles ... Now seeing as Paul is good with CAD perhaps we can con him into shoving up a piccy for us mental geriatrics to drool over

Don't lay awake its bad for you!

Draw out the cone, extend the sides untill they intersect to find point "D"
Strike an arc AG with the rad the length of DA.
Strike arc A to F using E as centre
divide arc AF into 6, (More divisions = more accuracy)
use dividers to find AB
Strike AB 12 times round Arc to find point G
join G to D to complete frustum of cone
If its a truncated cone strike arc using length DC

This is a workshop method,and needs nothing more than a rule and dividers or compasses, the dimension of AB is a chord length and not a section of the true circumference of the base, the more divisions you use the more accurate the development, I usually use maths to calculate the angle.

As an aside, a BA is an art degree, my wallet is still recovering from my eldest son achieving a 1st class, BA (Hons), in graphic communication,

 

[Blackjack]

I usually use maths to calculate the angle.

That's what I ended up doing. Used some maths.