- Thread starter Rick
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rswinburne
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Norris has nothing on us norwegians :P ****ty old audi is what he called jonus's car, but he had to eat his word :P
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pd5_XgHpSQE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pd5_XgHpSQE
Haha, i don't think another manifold in/around the house would go down well
Yes, big filler just for around the flanges, maybe a little dab here and there, maybe if there is a small gap.
I used a 1.6mm then switched to a 2.4mm, no real reason, i was just on 1.6mm for a real tight job but switched back when i had to sharpen, as i usually use 2.4mm red bands for everything.
Collector looks ok, i'm guessing you did it on a dry job saw?
Simon's car is horrendous off the line, but it was built more to be a good all round car not drag car. It might be better this year.
I've seen that vid before. What times does that Audi do?
Porschemaniac
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The more that I look at the photos of this, the more incredible it looks.
I agree; it's a shame to bolt it to an engine - really, it should be in the Tate Modern or MOMA.
Stunning work.
Ian.
I agree; it's a shame to bolt it to an engine - really, it should be in the Tate Modern or MOMA.
Stunning work.
Ian.
Well its a dry band saw, but this collector is from pvc pipe !
I have my jig ready (from a previous log style manifold, talked about in older posts) but i am trying to find how pipe bends and collector will go in place without wasting precious stainless...
Small budget yes.
So, you didnt mention, What were your amperage needs on average ? Did you go on the low or on the high side ?
I have my jig ready (from a previous log style manifold, talked about in older posts) but i am trying to find how pipe bends and collector will go in place without wasting precious stainless...
Small budget yes.
So, you didnt mention, What were your amperage needs on average ? Did you go on the low or on the high side ?
Oh yes, sorry.
The machine i set to 130 amps for the pipe and 160 where it joins the flange.
But, I don't spend much time on full pedal, so it would be very hard to say without having somebody watch the machine readout. i don't know, maybe 70-80 amps average i guess.
Ah right, looks alright then, looked a bit "burred" but it will clean up.
Remember the blade will defect more with stainless. Expect each cut to take 30 mins!
I sell precut collectors, and might be able to get you a better price on your straight and elbows as i buy in bulk. (if this is seen as trading mods delete)
Pete.
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Lovely job there Rick - much nicer than the one I made. I'm of the opinion that equal-length runners are nowhere near as important for a turbo manifold as for a NA tuned engine, though I did design mine to keep the runners as equal as possible given the space I had. Oh to have the room you get in a car engine bay 
Awesome job, very impressive stuff.
Will be having a go on manifold for a Zx12 mini project when I get round to it.
Where do you get the bends from ?
Hope it turns out as good as yours
Awesome sounds like an interesting project for sure!
I get them from a local company, PM me when your ready and i'l get you the details.
Lovely job there Rick - much nicer than the one I made. I'm of the opinion that equal-length runners are nowhere near as important for a turbo manifold as for a NA tuned engine, though I did design mine to keep the runners as equal as possible given the space I had. Oh to have the room you get in a car engine bay
No, they aren't as important as obviously there is pressure so your not after the same scavenging effect.
I did notice this, i think its more down to my "downslope" (read me comming off the pedal too quickly) If i back the pedal off slower these are obviouslly avoided, I try to keep fairly large pulses as it's much quicker and allows me to move my foot a bit slower
So you're 'pumping the pedal' rather than carrying the puddle? Can't really increase the pulse frequency if pulsing via a pedal but tightening up the filler additions/not moving as far forward between pulses will fix it. This is what i'm talking about...
With a slow pulse that freezes the puddle there's nearly always some crater defects (from fish eyes through to full on pin holes), overlapping the filler additions by at least 50% will remelt them but you need more like 70 - 80% overlap to get a smooth root profile usually
With a slow pulse that freezes the puddle there's nearly always some crater defects (from fish eyes through to full on pin holes), overlapping the filler additions by at least 50% will remelt them but you need more like 70 - 80% overlap to get a smooth root profile usually
rswinburne
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I think Jonus's record in that car was 8.3 at 248kmh or something similar on that setup.
Haha, i don't think another manifold in/around the house would go down well
Yes, big filler just for around the flanges, maybe a little dab here and there, maybe if there is a small gap.
I used a 1.6mm then switched to a 2.4mm, no real reason, i was just on 1.6mm for a real tight job but switched back when i had to sharpen, as i usually use 2.4mm red bands for everything.
Collector looks ok, i'm guessing you did it on a dry job saw?
Simon's car is horrendous off the line, but it was built more to be a good all round car not drag car. It might be better this year.
I've seen that vid before. What times does that Audi do?
Yes i understand what you mean, i back the pedal off to move to the next area. Using this method i can get 100% penetration without overheating the material. Mainly because there is a slight pause as the puddle freezes.
With a 70-80% overlap like you mention i can't keep the weld shielded without stopping and starting all the time, maybe a trailing purge would help, but would make things awkward.
Awesome times, do you have a link to more information about it?
rswinburne
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Sorry. couldn't find the project thread for this car. it's old news. He's building a new car. audi A8 with the audi 4.2L V8 Turbo converted. Aiming for 1700hp
a few teaser pics
http://www.gatebil.no/index.php?id=1909&pageid=116&page=1
a few teaser pics
http://www.gatebil.no/index.php?id=1909&pageid=116&page=1
I've never had a problem with cracking (touch wood), but only ever made bike and n/a manifolds out of thin wall tube. When i first got thin wall i realised it was never going to be strong enough for a turbo manifold to last during normal day to day use.
304 is generally the choice of most, it's 25% cheaper and 316 doesn't offer any real advantages other than its better corrosion resistance.
There are more important things to consider when choosing your pipe though, you should ask for a "breakdown" on compare by looking up each property.
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Looks more like a work of art, we had to make do with the Long Centre Branch manifold for the Mini's in the 70's!
