Metal Shrinking Stretchers experts

[Paul.]

Inner wheel arch sections are dead easy to make, no shrinker required, this was one I did on a frogeye, dont bend an angle then try to form it, cut a flat sheet then cut the curve in it and beat the edge over, you could make a wooden former to maintain the shape, an outer repair section like the one I linked to will give you an accurate shape to work to.

Near side Before repair

Offside which was just as bad as the above photo after repair,

 

[Tupers]

Making that shape would be a piece of cake with a stretcher.

I made new wheel arch lips for my mini years ago and they took maybe 20 minutes a piece.

The suggestion of buying to tool to make them and then selling it on once you’re done is definitely worth considering if you don’t want to go for the hammer and block method.

 

[Windy Miller]

Making that shape would be a piece of cake with a stretcher.

I made new wheel arch lips for my mini years ago and they took maybe 20 minutes a piece.

View attachment 172793 View attachment 172794

The suggestion of buying to tool to make them and then selling it on once you’re done is definitely worth considering if you don’t want to go for the hammer and block method.

What happened to your Mini Tupers? I often wondered how you got on with it...

 

[Craig-SM]

Making that shape would be a piece of cake with a stretcher.

I made new wheel arch lips for my mini years ago and they took maybe 20 minutes a piece.

View attachment 172793 View attachment 172794

The suggestion of buying to tool to make them and then selling it on once you’re done is definitely worth considering if you don’t want to go for the hammer and block method.

What you’ve done is what I was trying to describe only where the lip sticks out on the Mini it would go inwards in the Shogun.
I’m now warming to idea of buying the stretcher making a few that I could sell on to recover the cost.

 

[Tom O]

They also come with a deeper throat.

 

[Craig-SM]

I’ve ordered one today and will make a few sets up and try and recoup my outlay.

 

[ian f]

i don't have a stretcher but when doing the cortina i found an effective method using just a vice

move the piece along while gently pulling on the free end (wear gloves)

all that is needed is to flatten the edge if it buckles. a bit of a bodge but it worked for me

 

[Dcal]

Good work @ian f that's not even close to a bodge, that just an excellent repair.

Mild steel is great stuff and it's amazing what you can do with it if you just have a go and start working it.

 

[steveo3002]

yeah good to see ...real skills when folk get results with minimal tools , any more tips you can share?

 

[Dcal]

View attachment 172878 They also come with a deeper throat.

Tom, whats your deep throat shrinker work like?
I was thinking of making one that uses the same jaws as my standard shrinker (looks the same type as in your photo) but I've heard it said the jaws aren't great for deep shrinking jobs.

Best thing I did with my shrinker / strecher was make it pedal operated (I put a thread up on it a while ago) but I still don't use it that much because it will only really do an edge.
Very useful tool when you need it though.

 

[pressbrake1]

Tom, whats your deep throat shrinker work like?
I was thinking of making one that uses the same jaws as my standard shrinker (looks the same type as in your photo) but I've heard it said the jaws aren't great for deep shrinking jobs.

Best thing I did with my shrinker / strecher was make it pedal operated (I put a thread up on it a while ago) but I still don't use it that much because it will only really do an edge.
Very useful tool when you need it though.

To shrink deep in a panel you need a four piece die and a lot of force

 

[Dcal]

@pressbrake1 is that the Ecklod type?
A set of jaws for one of them would probably be more than my yearly tool budget.

Are there any other options out there?

 

[pressbrake1]

@pressbrake1 is that the Ecklod type?
A set of jaws for one of them would probably be more than my yearly tool budget.

Are there any other options out there?

I made some eckold type to go in a flypress I draw a picture and yes eckold tooling is absolutely shocking and unjustified

 

[Spot the welders dog]

I think I would have opted for the repair panel Paul listed for an easier life on this occasion. Not to say you can't form a reasonable shape using a hammer, chisel and a wooden former.

Where it becomes uneconomical is using more than one after-market panel and then only using a nibble from each. That's the time to get creative!

e2a @ian f thread is worth a read.

 

[Dcal]

Where it becomes uneconomical is using more than one after-market panel and then only using a nibble from each.

Or when you can't get a repair panel.

Really tidy job and I like that you haven't polished it all up with a flap disk before posting.
Any more photos? or are you thinking of starting a thread?
Plenty on here (myself included) could learn a lot from that.

 

[Spot the welders dog]

Or when you can't get a repair panel.

Really tidy job and I like that you haven't polished it all up with a flap disk before posting.
Any more photos? or are you thinking of starting a thread?
Plenty on here (myself included) could learn a lot from that.

Or, when a panel is available but theres no way on earth you want to shell out £350 for a inner-wheelwell

No mate - this is all I got barring a few pics in my album
My attempt at a former: the word is crude; a woodworker I'm not but it was only an exercise to see how much shape I could put into the steel.

These, a small lump hammer and a body spoon I use as a slapper is what I used. The slapper to form the lower flange, the dolly and lump to create the 'bowl' and the small hammer point to define the crease.

Springback is a problem which wasn't factored into the former. I also know now that I didn't account for any vertical curvature in the former: so thats the plan if I go back to it.
A good exercise but still Interested how the OP finds the S/S works out. I know I want one but can I jusify the need!

 

[Dcal]

@Spot the welders dog I've a shrinker / streacher and it's great for jobs like shaping small angles, e.g. for a windscreen frame corner repair, but they only work on a leg that's up to about 25mm wide, after that you are back to formers and hammers.
They are really quick when they will do the job.

 

[pressbrake1]

@Spot the welders dog I've a shrinker / streacher and it's great for jobs like shaping small angles, e.g. for a windscreen frame corner repair, but they only work on a leg that's up to about 25mm wide, after that you are back to formers and hammers.
They are really quick when they will do the job.

I will remember to post a drawing how to make a eckold style shrinker to go in a flypress
You need a lathe and a shaper is handy for cutting the grips