Think I'm going to sack off any thoughts of mitre clamps, possibly look at building a layout bench. For the cost of 4 clamps at 150 a piece I could make a decent bench.
The point I tried to make earlier is I wouldn't weld out in a clamp especially on say a square frame - only tack.I use the Phier ones.
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And they are sturdy as hell, but depending on the weld sequence the part can still spring a little if you aren't careful about your weld sequence or fit up. For example if the cut isn't dead square and the metal you are welding is touching in one point but has a slight gap opening towards the other side even though the two pieces of metal are square relative to eachother the joint can pull. In that case I tend to get two strong tacks on the gap first each end to bridge the gap, I then fully weld the opposite side to the gap I tacked, allowing weld contraction to effectively try to help pull my gap open (which the tacks prevent) then weld both sides and gap last. This gives me the best result.
If the joint is perfect, you can still have issues if you don't tack all four sides before you start fully welding. A cooling, shrinking weld on a heavy wall box can exert tons of force, that's enough to pull a joint out of square if you haven't tacked it first, unless you have multiple clamps on the box at its ends as well.
I've had good service when I contacted strong-hand. Got prices and info pretty fast, but ive only had dealings once or twice so I can't say if that's the norm.
As for the clamps, they work best if bolted down, this is extra work though and if it's a one off its just not worth it.
ORMy next step is a jig table. The only way people will be persuaded to buy one Is if they see and use one so that's next on the list. A lovely 1x2 metre Seigmund table on wheeled legs.