Mitsubishi Shogun chassis repair

[scottmk1]

I need to do a couple of repairs to a mate's Mitsubishi Shogun chassis, it's of 2004 vintage. What thickness of steel would it have been originally? Is it worth useing zintec steel or is plain mild steel the preferred choice?

 

[winchman]

Most people just use normal stuff as the coated stuff is harder to weld, remember if you weld it and paint it properly the rest of the car will be rotten by the time the repair rusts
Just measure the old stuff and put the same on I assume you know most repairs have to seam welded? The only exception I believe is if you replace an entire panel that was spot welded then you can spot weld it back on.

 

[scottmk1]

Thanks. Yes I would have seam welded it anyway. It's one of those jobs where the aim is to make it last another 3 years as he got a loan to buy it.

 

[winchman]

Thanks. Yes I would have seam welded it anyway. It's one of those jobs where the aim is to make it last another 3 years as he got a loan to buy it.

Might be worth a chat with your local MOT man so you know exactly what he wants so it will pass.
We have a chap here who will weld your car and guarantee a pass in 12 months time or he will weld it again for free!
Did my Disco and its still fine 3 years on.

 

[scottmk1]

Unfortunately my mate can't afford to pay someone to do it, that's how I got the job. Apart from materials he won't have to pay me.

 

[pedrobedro]

16 gauge is enough to repair chassis and if you go any thicker you will struggle to cut and bend it. MOT tester will not be bothered as long as he can't poke his finger through it.

 

[scottmk1]

Thanks. I'll cut and bend stuff no problem, just not sure what thickness to use as it's not something I tend to do. I'm sure it will all go smoothly if I keep telling myself that.

 

[MoreWellie]

I would be using 3mm if it was a land rover chassis

if it has been waxoyled it will be a pig to weld unless you clean it thoroughly

 

[pedrobedro]

I would be using 3mm if it was a land rover chassis

But what would you weld it to ? It's Mitsi anyway, where did Waxoyl come into it ?

 

[scottmk1]

I think it seen some waxoyl once, from a distance.

 

[MoreWellie]

where did Waxoyl come into it

I don't know that it has but offroad vehicles often get waxoyled underneath.

 

[123hotchef]

shoguns are not too bad to weld, what part needs welding? don the fire extinguisher because mine has been regulary waxoiled inside and outside been shultz the inside can burn too! 3 or 4 mm steel will do for the chassis I think I used 5mm for my bump stop buffers

 

[Bill Edwards]

3mm tends to be the normal choice for chassis repairs. Any thicker tends to be hard work and unnecessary.

MOT man will be fine provided it’s all fully welded and there’s no holes anywhere, 1mm would pass but certainly would not be safe! The test is not actually very good.

I would not use zinc sheet as it would have to be ground off for welding, any zinc left will make a mess and cause more spatter to land in painful places and the weld areas won’t have any protection so it might as well be done with normal steel.

 

[scottmk1]

Ok thanks. I thought the zintec was supposed to be good for welding? As it's not properly galvanized or something. Anyway I think I will use plain mild steel, I have plenty 3mm hot rolled sheet as well. Here is a couple of photos of the rot. It's the offside front where the gearbox cross member bolts on, and the outrigger for the body is there too.

 

[Shedendman]

I'd give that area(pic 3) a good clean up 1st and then inspect more,and have another think,IMHO you're going to be chasing those holes.
Thats been patched before,if its gone again then its double the trouble

 

[scottmk1]

Those patches are basically tin so I'm not surprised they rotted out again. I've needle gunned that whole area so I think I have found all the holes.

 

[Shedendman]

Those patches are basically tin so I'm not surprised they rotted out again. I've needle gunned that whole area so I think I have found all the holes.

You'll still need to find good steel to weld to,needleing the front wont tell you whats behind

 

[scottmk1]

Yes that's true, I will be cutting out the crap stuff until it's back to decent material, rather than just patching those holes.

 

[Beeezer]

Looks like plenty of work there!!

 

[MoreWellie]

Thats been patched before,if its gone again then its double the trouble

looks more like patched twice before

at least it doesn't look to have been waxoyled but I can see a lot more metal disappearing before you feel happy with what's left