Mk2 Escort Group 4 Rally Car

[rallyreturn]

That's looking great, makes me want to pull my finger out and finish mine.Are those rear arches monty's?

Just standard Tarmac rear arches from Rally Weld

 

[rallyreturn]

Got time today to zinc the underneath, next stage is to seam seal all the shell joints and then to stone chip using Upol Gravitex.

 

[rallyreturn]

Started to work on the doors, the passenger door has already had a new door skin at some point in it's life and is okay other then a few minor repairs, but the driver side is original. The repair that I did to the bottom of the frame has warped the skin slightly and there is also some rot so I decided to replace the skin.

Skin removed and frame preped ready fo the new skin:






I fitted the door to the shell to check the alignments and gaps and other than a some fettering and skim of fillerv here and there it's not to bad a fit.

 

[rallyreturn]

Shell and doors are now zinc primed so I seam sealed ready for stone chip and high build primer..

 

[normspanners]

That's looking great, makes me want to pull my finger out and finish mine.Are those rear arches monty's?

No they are rallyreturn's -------now
yep, they look like em to me

 

[normspanners]

what prop are you using? if large dia group 4 one piece, you might need to remove the old seat belt mounts in the tunnel for clearance on full bump-----

 

[rallyreturn]

what prop are you using? if large dia group 4 one piece, you might need to remove the old seat belt mounts in the tunnel for clearance on full bump-----

It'll be a one piece prop, be a long time before it gets fitted and I'll be dry fitting everything before painting, so if it does foul then I'll cut it out.

 

[normspanners]

The axle has to be fitted and the diff angle has to be set, that can only be set when the engine /gear box is fitted, to match the main shaft angle, before you can test the prop.

 

[stumpy75]

Fair play thats lovely theres a guy just up the road from me that Does a lot with mk1 and 2 escorts my other mate used to prepare gp4 escorts and has a gp4 book the escort bible he calls it with specifications ect

 

[lotus 1969]

wow fella good patience great work I have just put a lotus mk2 back on the road it was a real basket case but fortunately never welded prior to me owning it... well when I say never welded it only had a minimal amount of brazing but loved every minute of it knowing that I will finally get to drive an icon of the 60s and now loving the looks and the waves the sound of those twin forties nothing quite like it.........the car will be at a garage quite close to you soon in llantrisant if you want a trip round the block give me a shout

 

[rallyreturn]

wow fella good patience great work I have just put a lotus mk2 back on the road it was a real basket case but fortunately never welded prior to me owning it... well when I say never welded it only had a minimal amount of brazing but loved every minute of it knowing that I will finally get to drive an icon of the 60s and now loving the looks and the waves the sound of those twin forties nothing quite like it.........the car will be at a garage quite close to you soon in llantrisant if you want a trip round the block give me a shout

I have the patience just no time or money at the moment, I'm sure you know how much effort is needed to get these old cars back on the road!!

 

[bc30se]

just obliged to subscribe this thread... mega incredibly excellent...

good job!

 

[peppa]

What sealer did you use behind alloy arches?

 

[normspanners]

I usually use tiger bond between the arch and the car then rivet through with ali rivets

 

[rallyreturn]

Didn't use any sealer, just made sure there was plenty of zinc primer on both the panels and arches.

 

[normspanners]

Didn't use any sealer, just made sure there was plenty of zinc primer on both the panels and arches.

Problem is the muck gets blasted into the join and then shows on the body through the joint also if the arch takes a knock it tends to pull out where there arnt any rivets the tiger bond tends to support it allway round and can stop the electro action with the ally rivets. IMO

 

[peppa]

Thanks for that guys, I was already to buy some but it now certainly makes sense not to use.

 

[peppa]

Problem is the muck gets blasted into the join and then shows on the body through the joint also if the arch takes a knock it tends to pull out where there arnt any rivets the tiger bond tends to support it allway round and can stop the electro action with the ally rivets. IMO

Sorry did not read fully.....my concern with Tiger seal is later removal is needed. How easy is is to part panels once sealed with Tiger seal?

 

[rallyreturn]

It's the reason I didn't use any sealant, as a rally car I expect the arches to need replacing at some point. If I had to replace all 4 I wouldn't fill the rivets either, looks just as good with the rivet heads showing.

I plan to underseal inside the wheel wells and arches so this will seal any small gaps.

 

[normspanners]

Sorry did not read fully.....my concern with Tiger seal is later removal is needed. How easy is is to part panels once sealed with Tiger seal?

if the old arch is totally flattened, cut off where it bends up to the vertical, the end of the is pulled away you just roll the strip up cutting the sealer with a blade.
Otherwise then can be cut with flex blade.

looks just as good with the rivet heads showing.

I agree but the arches are hard to repair when pulled away and stretched you end up with a wavey joint with the rivets partially pulled out that is very hard to sort whereas if bonded the whole lip seems to stay straighter.