Moisture trap setup not working..

[conor1n]

Hey guys,

I've started using one of the other guys' compressors in the factory unit where I am restoring my Clio.

There is a moisture trap connected directly to the outlet of the compressor. After some use the moisture trap is foggy with condensation, but no buildup of water. When I press in the drain plug underneath it releases air but no water. Now, when I pull the hose from the filter outlet. moisture laden air blows out from the hose... (you can see damp runs wherever that compressed air hits).

I had always been curious about the setup considering I see the correct way is to have a bunch of pipe between the compressor and the moisture trap.. I guess now I know why.

My question is, is this incorrect moisture trap filter simply down to the lack of distance as described above? I will need to sort this out before I start spraying.

I have ordered a 3-stage filter for my spray setup which I will use with this same compressor. The current setup is a considerably long air hose, that came with that compressor. I then add my relatively new hose to that hose for even longer length (not strictly required, but I put a T piece at the union so others can use it at same time, if needed.

I'm guessing if I put that 3 stage filter after the long length of hose it should fine.. Online I would see some guys install a drain fitting in the pre filter hose. Is this strictly necessary as it would be awkward to fit on a floating hose (not hardline).

Thanks a lot.
Conor

 

[MetalMonkey]

I think you have probably diagnosed the problem - need to get that water trap further away from the hot outlet of the compressor so the water has a chance to condense out.

 

[Brad93]

Coil your extra pipe up, Chuck it in a big bucket full of water, ice and salt. Poor mans dryer.

 

[Brad93]

Also, You could put a desiccant dryer on the end before your whip to the spray gun. They can be made fairly cheaply.

If you could cool the air and then trap the moisture in a water trap, then run it through desiccant, then regulate your pressure down. That would give you a very good spraying setup.

Have you drained the tank on the compressor?

I'd take your mates water trap off, coil up the existing pipe, Chuck it in the bucket and move the trap between the end of the now chilled pipe, you can drain the water here or have a slow bleed off.

If you make a desiccant dryer place it after this water trap, then plug your new regulator in after the desiccant.

 

[Munkul]

The moisture traps are not a perfect solution, they let plenty past them, even much further up stream. The "correct" way to remove moisture is to refrigerate/cool the air specifically, or use dessicant.

Having said that, I just use those moisture traps myself, works well enough for small volume painting and plasma cutting, although I will burn up plasma tips faster than someone with properly dry air.

Type of compressor has an effect - smaller compressors IME run hotter and cause more moisture problems.

 

[James1979]

Desiccant dryer made from a water filter works well. There’s a picture of mine on here somewhere

 

[conor1n]

Thanks guys, looking into all this now.

So what's the theory with cooling? Compressed air = hot and humid. Cooled air condenses that moisture back to water.

Also, I see plenty of guys building what looks like a square wave out of piping. I would assume that is to cool the air.. then at what would be the trough of the wave, there are outlets... is there where the water collects due to gravity. If that is correct then how do I drain the water from a hose that has been coiled ad dropped in cold water?

For dessicant drying, I am looking at just getting one of those snakes.

Is it possible to just run the soft hosing along a wall and create a dip in it, where the water will collect then just add a release valve there?

 

[not done it yet]

The clue is in the name - it’s probably a trap, not a drier.

Automatic traps collect the water then get rid automatically. Is yours a trap or a drier? First you need to cool the air, to condense the water, remove the water, then warm up the air afterwards - before feeding the spraygun.

Relative humidity changes with both amount of water vapour and the temperature.

 

[James1979]

Water build up in da sander.

Is it normal to see this much condensation/water building up when using a da sander? The air valve under the operating lever is sticking open so the sander won’t shut off. I know this is a common problem on sanders because my next door neighbour had the same issue. I have my water trap bolted to...

www.mig-welding.co.uk

Post 4/5

 

[conor1n]

Water build up in da sander.

Is it normal to see this much condensation/water building up when using a da sander? The air valve under the operating lever is sticking open so the sander won’t shut off. I know this is a common problem on sanders because my next door neighbour had the same issue. I have my water trap bolted to...

www.mig-welding.co.uk

Post 4/5

Very good idea. I am getting a 3 stage filter. I think i'll get a cheap water trap also and add some desicant like you have shown in the post. Thanks.

 

[conor1n]

I think this will work well, will it? £18

https://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/i...-trap-filter-ilf-se.html#sthash.ZVuarD3A.dpbs

I still need a run of hose before this and the 3 stage. That run should be somewhat cooled. If it ends up being a coil of pipe either just sitting on ground outside of in an IBC of water, how can I drain the water out of said pipe?

Thanks

 

[Brad93]

That isn't going to do any more than the wAter trap in your three bank filter is going to do. You're just going to restrict flow.

 

[conor1n]

That isn't going to do any more than the wAter trap in your three bank filter is going to do. You're just going to restrict flow.

Ok, so what are you saying then. Not to use that inline trap - just use the 3 stage filter far away from compressor?

 

[Brad93]

Ok, so what are you saying then. Not to use that inline trap - just use the 3 stage filter far away from compressor?

Yes.

and coil the hose in a bucket of water.

 

[Brad93]

Or by a refrigerant cooler

 

[carbon]

An aftercooler between the pump and the receiver can make a big difference to the amount of moisture. I have an ingersoll rand ABC 6 fitted on mine. Aftercoolers.

 

[brightspark]

i just use a secondary tank on the end of the flexible air hose then fit the water seperator and hose of that to whatever you are using .it stops the water when you are blasting using 28cfm of air at full blast. keep it simple

 

[conor1n]

Thanks for all the responses guys. It feels like I am getting there, but also I feel some advice is either confusing to me or conflicting, probably the former.

Also, You could put a desiccant dryer on the end before your whip to the spray gun. They can be made fairly cheaply.

If you could cool the air and then trap the moisture in a water trap, then run it through desiccant, then regulate your pressure down. That would give you a very good spraying setup.

Have you drained the tank on the compressor?

I'd take your mates water trap off, coil up the existing pipe, Chuck it in the bucket and move the trap between the end of the now chilled pipe, you can drain the water here or have a slow bleed off.

If you make a desiccant dryer place it after this water trap, then plug your new regulator in after the desiccant.

That isn't going to do any more than the wAter trap in your three bank filter is going to do. You're just going to restrict flow.

@Brad93 i'm a little confused by these two responses. It seems they conflict.

One thing for certain is I need to install the three stage filter as it will bring the air down to 0.01 micron for breathable air.

Perhaps the introduction of the three stage has confused things.

-------------------------------------

Should I be aiming for a generally dried air setup by cooling the air and introducing a mechanism to drain the water from the system, with the possibility of adding a desiccant after the trap. So for this general setup I have the following ideas:

1. Compressor -> length of hose to cool air -> moisture trap with drain -> whip line -> air tool

2. Compressor -> length of hose to cool air -> moisture trap with drain -> DIY desiccant filter -> whip line -> air tool

This will give me "relatively dry" air for my tools and spray gun, great.

----

For breathable air, when would and where and what modifications do you suggest I introduce the three stage filter?

.. Also, I note the breathable mask product page states - "Air must travel from the compressor to the mask through high flow type connectors e.g. euro, NOT standard British." All the fittings being used at the moment are the standard British fittings.

I am bit concerned about your comment about restricting airflow, which I don't understand, as I see loads of peoples set ups with a bunch of various filters.

 

[mtt.tr]

Problem with DIY desiccant is lack of purging which is needed to dry the desiccant.

 

[conor1n]

Problem with DIY desiccant is lack of purging which is needed to dry the desiccant.

But didn't somebody say that I can remove and bake in the oven. I won't be doing a huge amount of work so it won't be an issue for now anyway.

Heck, can I not just add a desiccant line and be done? This isn't a permanent job, for now it's just to enable me to paint my car.