Moisture trap setup not working..

[Brad93]

1 micron doesn't make something breathable air. You need to put your air line through a large activated carbon Filter and a particulate filter for that.

 

[conor1n]

1 micron doesn't make something breathable air. You need to put your air line through a large activated carbon Filter and a particulate filter for that.

I think you might have misread that. I specified 0.01 Micron, which I believe is breathable air.

The three stage air filter I have been referring to cleans the air to this level.

 

[Brad93]

I think you might have misread that. I specified 0.01 Micron, which I believe is breathable air.

The three stage air filter I have been referring to cleans the air to this level

I'd still want an activated carbon filter personally.

Anyways, you'll be changing filters after a few hours if you don't sort your water issue out. No point throwing hundreds at filters if your air is still full of water.

 

[carbon]

I'd still want an activated carbon filter personally.

I’m not sure what filters @conor1n has but usually three stage breathing filters have an activated carbon element as the last stage

 

[conor1n]

Fair point @Brad93 - will still need to dry out the water.

Correct @carbon My three stage will have an activated carbon in it. The air fed visor also has a carbon filter.

I'm currently looking at this filter https://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/i...e-breathing-air-set.html#sthash.3nhf0MsI.dpbs

A burning question I have is that if I have a coil of hose in the water and the air cools and condenses the moisture. Where does it collect and how do I drain it out? Would it not collect in the coil and be hard to drain?

 

[the snooper]

You need your water trap at least 18 feet away from the compressor outlet so it remains cool and condenses the vapor in the air back to water, once it warms up it stops condensing

 

[bricol]

I fitted a PCL Dropout some years ago and forgot about it. No water has ever appeared at any outlet since.

 

[carbon]

Where does it collect and how do I drain it out? Would it not collect in the coil and be hard to drain?

It will collect at the lowest point, that’s why several on here have made diy versions with copper pipe with drains at the low points

 

[conor1n]

Ok guys. Thanks for all of your input... I have been thinking about this and various approaches.

I think I may aswell go and build a proper dryer/condenser unit as it's not really mad money and will be fun.

I have come up with the following draft plan after some feedback on here and inspiration from @RaceDiagnostics

The following setup from points 1 to 2 is about 14.5 FT, so I think I need to add another 10 - based on the magic number of 25 FT.

I plan on using the "solder ring" type copper fittings.

Some questions:

1. From the tee piece to the drain valve, should there be a reasonable length of pipe to collect the water, otherwise it just get's pushed further into system?
2. What fittings would you put a section 1 and 2 of the cooler?
3. I've gone for 1/2" copper pipe all around as opposed to 15mm on offer by Screwfix, I assume that's a standard choice?
4. Is 1/2" high enough flow?
5. What do you think of the design in general?

Thanks a lot guys.

 

[Brad93]

Get an auto drain from eBay for your tank. Bit expensive, run on a timer and plug into 240v

 

[8ob]

I have had no problems with moisture in the airlines since I piped up the whole airline circuit in 25mm , I assumed its down to reduced air speed in the system allowing moisture traps to work rather than air howling through them on smaller pipe.

Bob

 

[bricol]

15mm copper pipe, modern stuff, is pretty much the same diameter as 1/2" old stuff - the older stuff has thicker walls, but the burst pressure of the modern half hard stuff is way in excess of what your compressor can produce - somewhere above 800 psi.

Out of interest - how much does your pipe, fittings and valves add up to?

Small PCL dropout is £130 on that well known industrial supplies site . . . Amazon.

They claim: The unique design allows it to efficiently remove >99.9999% of liquid water and remove other contaminants down to 1 micron.

I have no complaints about that claim - I have seen no water since fitting it.

 

[vw1]

15mm copper pipe, modern stuff, is pretty much the same diameter as 1/2" old stuff - the older stuff has thicker walls, but the burst pressure of the modern half hard stuff is way in excess of what your compressor can produce - somewhere above 800 psi.

Out of interest - how much does your pipe, fittings and valves add up to?

Small PCL dropout is £130 on that well known industrial supplies site . . . Amazon.

They claim: The unique design allows it to efficiently remove >99.9999% of liquid water and remove other contaminants down to 1 micron.

I have no complaints about that claim - I have seen no water since fitting it.

Hi out of Interest where in your system did you put your pcl dropout please ? I have looked at them on gt air but are £200.

 

[conor1n]

Get an auto drain from eBay for your tank. Bit expensive, run on a timer and plug into 240v

How does that work though - isn't the theory that the air that close to the outlet of compressor is still hot enough to hold the water as gas, there is currently a manual drain on the tank that just fills with steam when in operation, which is why I have gone about pursuing this makeshift "condenser".

I have had no problems with moisture in the airlines since I piped up the whole airline circuit in 25mm , I assumed its down to reduced air speed in the system allowing moisture traps to work rather than air howling through them on smaller pipe.

Bob

Interesting. I like the idea of the wider diameter pipe alright. I'm trying to estimate the trade off between cost of larger diameter and just more narrower stuff. I think the latter might offer more surface area for cooling.

15mm copper pipe, modern stuff, is pretty much the same diameter as 1/2" old stuff - the older stuff has thicker walls, but the burst pressure of the modern half hard stuff is way in excess of what your compressor can produce - somewhere above 800 psi.

Out of interest - how much does your pipe, fittings and valves add up to?

Small PCL dropout is £130 on that well known industrial supplies site . . . Amazon.

They claim: The unique design allows it to efficiently remove >99.9999% of liquid water and remove other contaminants down to 1 micron.

I have no complaints about that claim - I have seen no water since fitting it.

Ok, that's interesting looks like 1/2 is cheaper than 15mm by about 1 euro.

I did a quick recce on parts and it was coming in about €55 euro from screwfix - that was everything to get between stage 1 and 2 in the diagram (minus the points 1 and 2 which are unconfirmed parts) not sure what fittings to put there? Would I just put barbed pieces there and then fix on flexi line with Jubilee clips? No need for quick release.

I've heard nothing but great things about the PCL auto drains/dropouts.. May I ask about the installation? What is between the dropout and the compressor outlet, distance?

Thanks a lot.

 

[conor1n]

Ok, so I have come up with a design based on a number of others online. There will be 24ft of copper and a number of ball valves to relieve the moisture. I am happy with the theory at least and that it should remove an amount of the water.

Out of the cooler/condenser I will have my 3 stage filter for breathable air and then another for an optional moisture trap and oiler for tools in general.

It should work well enough I believe and cost €76 (increased length on last price) on Screwfix. Which is not bad at all. That's for everything between the condenser input and output inclusively.

Conor

 

[bricol]

My current Dropout is something like 14ft from compressor - compressor is under the house, the Dropout where the line comes into the garage.

 

[mtt.tr]

Also need to be cautious of co and co2 which filters will not remove.

These are created by the compressor getting hot a burning of the oil.

 

[conor1n]

Also need to be cautious of co and co2 which filters will not remove.

These are created by the compressor getting hot a burning of the oil.

That's fair. How can I check for that.

To be honest though, i've not come across that anywhere so I think the risk might be minimal, no?