Mouldy gap near window frame

[gaz1]

yours looks bottom and being sucked up by the plasterboard

youve siliconed the outside but you havent done the bottom sill

like welder pauls you dont have a silicone down the d bead either water can still get behind there as only superglued onto the frame in dash and dabs

water is then tracking backwards on top of the dampcoarse

if you siliconed in winter you will have to wait till summer when its the drier time to find out if cured but any wet times it will show at high speed with mold

 

[6ply]

Thanks for your reply.

Could you explain further?

like welder pauls you dont have a silicone down the d bead either water can still get behind there as only superglued onto the frame in dash and dabs

 

[gaz1]

outside pic



the d bead is the trim running down the side its just superglued on but still needs silicone otherwise water will get in welder pauls is the same as i noticed the gap on hos pics as well

the bottom the bit running out past the brickwork still needs siliconing as it will allow water inbetween the wall dropping onto the damp coarse and therefore can track back into the innner wall as all they do is use one complete damp coarse layer under the door window

if your plasterboard is touching that damp coarse it will track up the plasterboard hence the reason why it became wider at the bottom of the wet patch on your inner picture

 

[6ply]

@gaz1 Silicone here?

 

[6ply]

How about this horizontal gap? Or is it made to drain freely?

 

[gaz1]

yes

i wouldnt advise it across the front if it has drain holes in then it cant escape butthe side d bead wants silicone brown to match and you want a run to the side to the front

 

[6ply]

yes

i wouldnt advise it across the front if it has drain holes in then it cant escape butthe side d bead wants silicone brown to match and you want a run to the side to the front

Thanks