Murex Tradesmig 160 help

[eSCHEn]

Cheers for the assist Mike

 

[Mark Robinson]

yeah cheers mike and cheers to you too @eSCHEn

p.s I've learned that wire numbered 39 is live lol. Checked all the wires with my voltage testing screwdriver thingy Merbob and only 39 lights up (my

 

[mike 109444]

Home internet gone down! hope this worked on my phone

 

[mike 109444]

Looking at the list you gave they don't match the diagram !

 

[mike 109444]

Can't hack typing on phone I'm off

 

[Mark Robinson]

Thanks for that mate, although as you said some of the numbers don't match, I'll follow it the best I can and see what happens. Thanks.

 

[Mark Robinson]

ps didn't realise pic was that pic was so blurry! Numbers along top are actually 53 61 71 63
54 62 72 64

 

[mike 109444]

yeah cheers mike and cheers to you too @eSCHEn

p.s I've learned that wire numbered 39 is live lol. Checked all the wires with my voltage testing screwdriver thingy Merbob and only 39 lights up (my

Your list of numbers did not include a 39! (should that have read 29?)
This is not going to be easy to go through !
Just working it out to make it as basic as possible.

 

[mike 109444]

Couple of questions. Do you know which of the wires in your list went to the coil of the original contactor ? There should have been at least one on each side of the coil.
If you treat the top (from your image) of the contactor as the INPUTS Then the one you found to be LIVE !!! you can put in 53. ONLY DO THIS WITH POWER DISCONNECTED as it is the permanent live (may be a switch or trip in it's path) follow it down the diagram and you will see it goes to the connector block/cable 36. This is where your mains input cable will connect. If you look at the same input connector block then the other cable is your NEUTRAL and this becomes the cable 42. If you follow this cable (there maybe more than one!) till it gets to the bunch of loose wires of the original contactor. This wire(s) need to go INTO the 63.
This should now be the LIVE and NEUTRAL inputs connect to the top outer connections.
Next to identify the other connections......
IF and only IF you can find the big resistor (size of a cocktail sausage maybe) then you should find that two of the wires in your bunch go to each side of this (it's the oblong box to the right on the diagram, other side to the ones labeled 90's. These two wires of the resistor can go into 62 and 72 (does not matter which way round. This resistor shorts out the welding voltage when you release the trigger so that the wire does not stick to job by discharging the capacitor bank.
If you can follow two of the wires and they connect to the capacitor bank (will be connected to the alumium buzz bars that link the capacitors together) then these wires can be connected to the 61 and 71 does not matter which way round.
That is not all the wires sorted yet but let me know what you have left

 

[Mark Robinson]

Cheers for the input, Going to have another go now. I wired the contactor using the TXT doc you sent me and the machine doesn't come on, BUT when I push the contactor in the gas thing clunks?

 

[Mark Robinson]

not sure if this will help as the camera on my laptop is pretty crap

 

[Mark Robinson]

well the way I've been told to wore it up has left it with 2 NC connected and 4 NO conected :/ I'm getting frustrated at the thing now, Doing my ******* head in

 

[stanbester]

Is your new contactor fitted with 24 v coil? if its just standard contactor with 240 v coil it's not gonna work.

 

[mike 109444]

On the front of that contactor
NC = Normally closed - IE will let current flow when contactor coil doesn't have power supplied to it (say when the trigger isn't being pulled) - power stops flowing when power supplied to the contactor coil
NO = Normally Open - IE will not let current flow when the contactor coil doesn't have power supplied to it, power only flows when contactor coil is energised

The NC contacts are being used to shunt/short the welding voltage/capacitor charge via a resistor when trigger is released (labeled as 90's on the diagram)

 

[Mark Robinson]

Is your new contactor fitted with 24 v coil? if its just standard contactor with 240 v coil it's not gonna work.

Not 100% sure tbh, Will read the box and see, All I know is that the old geezer at the electrical supply shop said that these replaced them so just took his word for it.

 

[mike 109444]

Think Stan may have a point there ! Having looked up the spec for the LC1D09U7 it indicates it's a 240 v coil so would struggle (if it worked at all) to operate the contactor. You may have been just lucky that it did operate it or you had wrong wires on it giving it 240 off the supply ! The U7 part of the part number is what tells you it's a 240v coil. The other part of the two parts they sold you should be correct. And you lap top pic was not informative .

 

[Mark Robinson]

Old contactor says 380v and new one says 240 vca 400v 480v :/ didn't think the pic would be of any use lol

 

[Mark Robinson]

what I don't get though is I took the original contactor with me and they said it was 25 years old, Obsolete and that it had been replaced twice and the one I was supplied with is the newest apparently.

 

[mike 109444]

Think you are right there as looking at the diagrams (the up side down ones !) there is a relay that switches the 240 v feed to the contactor coil So it should be a 240v coil which the U7 version is (doing my head in looking at all these manufacture pdf's) and I keep getting distracted by the classic car program on itv4
Lotus mk1's ooo eeer

 

[Mark Robinson]

Lol. It' doing my head in too. But one thing I promise is that I will happily send some readies to the person who helps me get the beast going