Yes. So slow it appears not to move!
- Thread starter brewdexta
- Start date
What tpi is your lead screw? Any link to the controller you used?
Missed that post. 
I like the simplicity of your setup with minimum material purchase. Plus if it's not slow enough there's no material waste as you can reuse the motor & controller to make a belt drive unit.
I do want to fit a handwheel to the leadscrew to give me depth setting when using the milling slide. I'll have to incorporate that in somewhere!
I like the simplicity of your setup with minimum material purchase. Plus if it's not slow enough there's no material waste as you can reuse the motor & controller to make a belt drive unit.
I do want to fit a handwheel to the leadscrew to give me depth setting when using the milling slide. I'll have to incorporate that in somewhere!
I made and fitted a handwheel to mine, but rarely used it, I felt it was too far away! So I haven't missed it really.Missed that post.
I like the simplicity of your setup with minimum material purchase. Plus if it's not slow enough there's no material waste as you can reuse the motor & controller to make a belt drive unit.
I do want to fit a handwheel to the leadscrew to give me depth setting when using the milling slide. I'll have incorporate that in somewhere!
E T
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The slowest feed rate on mine is 0.089mm/rev and that is the one I use. But sometimes you want slower and sometimes faster.
When I first had this lathe I tried it for a while with a cordless drill, but it's to hard to keep a steady feed. I did like the reduction in noise though.
I ordered some parts from amazon today and gonna do what You did. I find it no problem to change gears once in a while for screw cutting so don't need a electronic leadscrew, but changing the feed with a knob would be a nice option to have.
Thanks for the tips.
Pls let us know how it goes. I pondered for a while about an e.l.s. but I couldn't get my head around the programming. I cut threads on the lathe mainly with taps and dies for ease. But managed to surprise myself making a one off trapezoidal threaded leadcrew for my mill using single point threading and a hss tool ground by myself!The slowest feed rate on mine is 0.089mm/rev and that is the one I use. But sometimes you want slower and sometimes faster.
When I first had this lathe I tried it for a while with a cordless drill, but it's to hard to keep a steady feed. I did like the reduction in noise though.
I ordered some parts from amazon today and gonna do what You did. I find it no problem to change gears once in a while for screw cutting so don't need a electronic leadscrew, but changing the feed with a knob would be a nice option to have.
Thanks for the tips.
E T
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It's not the finish that is my main concern. For that I use emery and scotch-brite like You say.
My main concern is the long stringy chips when taking light finishing passes. I think faster feed might help that a bit, but experimenting with feeds and speeds is to much hassle with the change gears.
My main concern is the long stringy chips when taking light finishing passes. I think faster feed might help that a bit, but experimenting with feeds and speeds is to much hassle with the change gears.
brewdexta
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I'm continuing to sort through my dad's tools. I've already sorted through most of his massive collection of nuts and bolts, bearings, assorted steel stock etc. etc. Time to look at the lathe tools.
I had a few DTIs, with my dad's I have affair few, mostly broken or sticky, but probably mostly salvageable.
Quite a few dogs and clamps
Assorted marking a clamping stuff
And an assorted pile of stuff I need to go through after removing most of the rust.
I've already sorted through his lathe cutting tools.
I had a few DTIs, with my dad's I have affair few, mostly broken or sticky, but probably mostly salvageable.
Quite a few dogs and clamps
Assorted marking a clamping stuff
And an assorted pile of stuff I need to go through after removing most of the rust.
I've already sorted through his lathe cutting tools.
Very pleased it's worked out for you!The parts from Amazon arrived this week and got it mounted.
I like it. First test cuts were very promising. Feed can be changed from very slooooooow to too fast.
Thanks for the inspiration @striker.
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It's really simple and cheap, have you disengaged the banjo and change gears? The silence is bliss!
E T
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Yep, the bracket with the change gears is on the shelf with the rest of the change gears.
Next thing is to make some aluminium covers for the open ends of that tube where the speed controller and power supply sit so no swarf can get in there to short things out.
brewdexta
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I found a nice 4 jaw on the bay, looked a bit rough but under the rust and emulsion spatter however I had a notion that it was OK. Also bought a pump action oil gun, I have some ancient ones but they all leak. This probably will too but it wasn't too expensive and purports to be German made so thought I would take a chance.
The chuck cleaned up well, after removing the jaws and the rust I gave it a good clean out with parafin, then meths and and airline, re-oiled it and it is now very smooth
There is some chatter on various Myford forums about 4 jaw chucks larger than 100mm diameter causing vibration, But this is usually because they are huge Chinese lumps with a big backplate so more to stick out. This was made for the ML7 and is 150mm diameter
It seems to run nicely. The serial number on the jaws match the body etc. No obvious damage except when some tool got too close with a tool and scored the surface a little
I haven't tried the oil gun out yet, I'll wait until I need a shower
The chuck cleaned up well, after removing the jaws and the rust I gave it a good clean out with parafin, then meths and and airline, re-oiled it and it is now very smooth
There is some chatter on various Myford forums about 4 jaw chucks larger than 100mm diameter causing vibration, But this is usually because they are huge Chinese lumps with a big backplate so more to stick out. This was made for the ML7 and is 150mm diameter
It seems to run nicely. The serial number on the jaws match the body etc. No obvious damage except when some tool got too close with a tool and scored the surface a little
I haven't tried the oil gun out yet, I'll wait until I need a shower
Forget about the oil gun, they are a waste of time! Swap all the oil connectors for 2BA grease nipples, modify a lever grease gun for oil & use that to oil the lathe!
https://www.spridgetguru.com/TA0124.html#
Minimal leaks & will do all nipples except the one for the back gear.
https://www.spridgetguru.com/TA0124.html#
Minimal leaks & will do all nipples except the one for the back gear.
brewdexta
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I tried the oil gun out, it works on all but one nipple, but I doubt its longevity, it will do for now.
I like that Idea, I'll put that on the mod list along with the windscreen washer motor driven carriage
brewdexta
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The new tool post finally arrived. Its a 250-000 gib type toolpost, often called Machifit but the whole of China seems to be making them. I originally ordered them via a Banggood seller but they kept putting the delivery date back by a couple of weeks, then a month so cancelled that and had another look around and found a seller on AliExpress. They are all the same, just a market place, payment, shipping notification doo dah.
I ended up buying 8 standard tool holders 250-001, 2 with grooves for boring bits, 250-002, 2 with a hole for a boring bits 250-004 (takes 3/8" and 1/2" with a sleeve) and there's one more 250-005 on its way with an MT2 hole in it. I don't think I will be short of holders, although a couple I may use to hold DTI etc.
I had already bought the stud from ArcEurotrade that meant it should be easy to mount. I wanted to know if it now allowed me to use 12mm tooling, so although I'm supposed to be fitting some wardrobes and a bathroom in the youngest daughter's bedroom, I thought I better check . The tool holders can take 1/2" but does it get low enough?
Putting the tool post on should be a doddle, but the base of the stud caught on the top slide when I reassembled it so I had to skim about 1mm off of the base of the stud, didn't take long.
Now mounted, the ArcEurotrade stud comes with a thrust bearing and the chrome knob so no tools are needed to move the toolpost or to swap the holder. I put a centre in the chuck to check the depth of tooling it allows.
I don't have any 12mm indexed tooling (yet ) so I used a standard HSS 12mm tool with a flat top as a guide, As you can see there's a couple of mm under the centre.
I adjusted the tool to be on centre and you can see there's daylight under the tool holder
So that suggests that it will take 12mm tooling with room to spare centre wise. 12mm tooling only just fits into the holder so that's the limit. I'll have a proper play later.
Cheers
Andy
I ended up buying 8 standard tool holders 250-001, 2 with grooves for boring bits, 250-002, 2 with a hole for a boring bits 250-004 (takes 3/8" and 1/2" with a sleeve) and there's one more 250-005 on its way with an MT2 hole in it. I don't think I will be short of holders, although a couple I may use to hold DTI etc.
I had already bought the stud from ArcEurotrade that meant it should be easy to mount. I wanted to know if it now allowed me to use 12mm tooling, so although I'm supposed to be fitting some wardrobes and a bathroom in the youngest daughter's bedroom, I thought I better check
. The tool holders can take 1/2" but does it get low enough?Putting the tool post on should be a doddle, but the base of the stud caught on the top slide when I reassembled it so I had to skim about 1mm off of the base of the stud, didn't take long.
Now mounted, the ArcEurotrade stud comes with a thrust bearing and the chrome knob so no tools are needed to move the toolpost or to swap the holder. I put a centre in the chuck to check the depth of tooling it allows.
I don't have any 12mm indexed tooling (yet
) so I used a standard HSS 12mm tool with a flat top as a guide, As you can see there's a couple of mm under the centre.I adjusted the tool to be on centre and you can see there's daylight under the tool holder
So that suggests that it will take 12mm tooling with room to spare centre wise. 12mm tooling only just fits into the holder so that's the limit. I'll have a proper play later.
Cheers
Andy
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