Myford ML7

[25.4_mechanic]

Looking good! Next comes a QCTP, steadies (fixed and travelling), different tooling.... it's never ending

Thank you.

You are absolutely right! It has already started:
The lot I bought is more of a mystery than anything else. The composition doesn't make any simple sense to me.

In the universal tool holder I don't hit workpiece centre height with any of the many different tools supplied.
The smaller of the available tools might fit in the quadruple rotary holder (don't like them very much), but the required 3/16" Allen key was not included despite intensive searching at the seller's (ordered, see!).

I have no idea if the previous owner was ever able to work with it properly. The many chisels with chipping also speak rather against it ...

Carsten

--

 

[slim_boy_fat]

The lot I bought is more of a mystery than anything else. The composition doesn't make any simple sense to me.

That's a real mixed bag, much of it looks too big for the Myford. Much research you must do, as Yoda would say. . It's all part of the fun though.

 

[JMS1972]

Thank you.

You are absolutely right! It has already started:
The lot I bought is more of a mystery than anything else. The composition doesn't make any simple sense to me.

In the universal tool holder I don't hit workpiece centre height with any of the many different tools supplied.
The smaller of the available tools might fit in the quadruple rotary holder (don't like them very much), but the required 3/16" Allen key was not included despite intensive searching at the seller's (ordered, see!).

I have no idea if the previous owner was ever able to work with it properly. The many chisels with chipping also speak rather against it ...

View attachment 321841


Carsten

--

I've milled out a corner of the shank of big tools so they drop down to Myford height.
So it looks like an inverted L in cross section.
This was mainly to get access to CCMT 09 inserts for roughing.
Might be easier to sell those and buy a few tools the right size. CCMT 06 insert tools are generally about right

 

[prepman]

I thought about machine feet like the ones shown (thanks for the link ) and then discarded it:

The original "feet" on my base cabinet consist of two flat bars of 8.5x40mm.

If I understood the principle of machine feet correctly, the whole machine assembly rests on four nuts with washers over them. My concern was that this resting on four individual points - although of course well adjustable - would in the long run be too much for the rather modest flat bars and they would start to bend.

I therefore transferred the principle of the four adjustable bearing points to a level further up, the steel plate became the floor, the threaded rods became the adjustable machine feet ...

We made some brass and copper shims:

View attachment 321836

Then we started levelling the machine, using the spirit level on Junior's smartphone as a very rough guide - for now, until we get our hands on something better.

View attachment 321837

On the tailstock side we stopped with a less satisfactory intermediate result - my guess is that a (slight) distortion has come into the bed over years of incorrect assembly ...

View attachment 321838

This is the status at which we finished yesterday:

View attachment 321839

Have a successful day today,

Carsten

--

I notice you checking level on the bed directly. I would not do it that way. Instead I would put it on the cariage for 2 reasons. (There wil be purists who will no doubt disagree.)
1) the back of your smart phone might not be uniform and may not be placed in exactly the same position.
2) the run of the carriage is what matters. If you mount it on the carriage and run it the length of the bed you will get a truer indication. (with the bed spotlessly clean of course)
The carriage is where everything happens. Plus you only need to do this is if you are getting unacceptable tapers.
Did your machine not have suds tray fitted?
I'm not sure about using thick rubber as there is potential to distort the bed with tightening down. I don't have a vibration issue that I feel needs dampening.
The Colchester on the other hand is noisy in top speed 1,500rpm but they are noted for it.

 

[brightspark]

Thank you.

You are absolutely right! It has already started:
The lot I bought is more of a mystery than anything else. The composition doesn't make any simple sense to me.

In the universal tool holder I don't hit workpiece centre height with any of the many different tools supplied.
The smaller of the available tools might fit in the quadruple rotary holder (don't like them very much), but the required 3/16" Allen key was not included despite intensive searching at the seller's (ordered, see!).

I have no idea if the previous owner was ever able to work with it properly. The many chisels with chipping also speak rather against it ...

View attachment 321841


Carsten

--

all those tools will fit in the myford lathe with the original myford adjustable single tool clamp .even the bigger ones

 

[25.4_mechanic]

steadies (fixed and travelling),

did someone say something about a steady?

There are ball bearings in the tips - does that makes it travelling or does it have to travel itself to be called a travelling steady?

Much research you must do, as Yoda would say.

Sounds like he's a closet German, your Yoda ....

This was mainly to get access to CCMT 09 inserts for roughing.
Might be easier to sell those and buy a few tools the right size. CCMT 06 insert tools are generally about right

Thanks for the info!
Will look out for CCMT 06 inserts.

Can we perhaps clarify together what kind of inserts I have?

Instead I would put it on the cariage

Gosh, that's right, makes sense to me right away. After all, the position of the tool is what matters when turning.

I simply had in mind what I saw when the machine setters came in the companies for which I programmed and organised.
I took that for granted.

So of course I will do both from now on. I wanted to take down the cross support anyway, because it seems to have been greased instead of oiled or preserved with grease beforehand, and Junior's phone won't have to serve as a stopgap for much longer anyway, because this is on its way to me:

Did your machine not have suds tray fitted?

Nope, no tray, no blocks.

I'm not sure about using thick rubber as there is potential to distort the bed with tightening down.

Clearly, I did not explain sufficiently what I was thinking and doing, which is not surprising because I did not think of it for a long time - I could just as well have been completely wrong.

I have modified my little emergency drawing from yesterday:

Think of a workshop on the ground floor, with the cellar below.
The thick red line across the picture is the floor ceiling, everything below it is of no interest (as long as the ceiling doesn't collapse into the cellar, of course).

The machine is firmly anchored in the threads in the steel plate, its machine base, the fact that the floor below is insulated (rubber padding) does not affect the stability of the machine on its anchorage, the steel plate.

If the bolts in the feet of the machine are tightened, then they are tightened against the steel plate, not against the base cabinet. If we loosen the bolts and put shims underneath, then it is in relation to the steel plate, not necessarily against the base cabinet.

The fact that the same bolts (threaded rods) go a bit through the floor slab into the basement (the base cabinet) is of no consequence, nor do the nuts with rubber washers screwed on from below have anything to do with the machine above, they are quite loose.

If I haven't explained this sufficiently now, then I probably haven't understood it myself ...

all those tools will fit in the myford lathe with the original myford adjustable single tool clamp .even the bigger ones

The only surprising thing is that the shims required for this are not to be found in the whole hodgepodge.
None of the thick tools are on the centre line of the workpiece.

If these tools ever ran on this machine, then either there must have been shims for them that are not present now or the predecessor did not know about the necessity of the exact height and always wondered why turning never really worked out for him.

He was a factory electrician in a large engine plant and his survivors said that no one really understood why he wanted such a thing so badly ... that can now say everything or nothing ...

I simply have to make my own shims, that's all, wilco!


Carsten

--

 

[slim_boy_fat]

does that makes it travelling or does it have to travel itself to be called a travelling steady?

That one would be fixed to the carriage and move along the workpiece with it, hence"travelling".

A fixed one is just that - fixed to the lathe bed. There is a threaded hole in the bed for the purpose.

Do have a copy of The Myford book?

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Do have a copy of The Myford book?

This one?

 

[JMS1972]

did someone say something about a steady?

View attachment 321912
There are ball bearings in the tips - does that makes it travelling or does it have to travel itself to be called a travelling steady?


Sounds like he's a closet German, your Yoda ....


Thanks for the info!
Will look out for CCMT 06 inserts.

Can we perhaps clarify together what kind of inserts I have?

View attachment 321914

View attachment 321915


Gosh, that's right, makes sense to me right away. After all, the position of the tool is what matters when turning.

I simply had in mind what I saw when the machine setters came in the companies for which I programmed and organised.
I took that for granted.

So of course I will do both from now on. I wanted to take down the cross support anyway, because it seems to have been greased instead of oiled or preserved with grease beforehand, and Junior's phone won't have to serve as a stopgap for much longer anyway, because this is on its way to me:

View attachment 321917


Nope, no tray, no blocks.


Clearly, I did not explain sufficiently what I was thinking and doing, which is not surprising because I did not think of it for a long time - I could just as well have been completely wrong.

I have modified my little emergency drawing from yesterday:
View attachment 321922
Think of a workshop on the ground floor, with the cellar below.
The thick red line across the picture is the floor ceiling, everything below it is of no interest (as long as the ceiling doesn't collapse into the cellar, of course).

The machine is firmly anchored in the threads in the steel plate, its machine base, the fact that the floor below is insulated (rubber padding) does not affect the stability of the machine on its anchorage, the steel plate.

If the bolts in the feet of the machine are tightened, then they are tightened against the steel plate, not against the base cabinet. If we loosen the bolts and put shims underneath, then it is in relation to the steel plate, not necessarily against the base cabinet.

The fact that the same bolts (threaded rods) go a bit through the floor slab into the basement (the base cabinet) is of no consequence, nor do the nuts with rubber washers screwed on from below have anything to do with the machine above, they are quite loose.

If I haven't explained this sufficiently now, then I probably haven't understood it myself ...



The only surprising thing is that the shims required for this are not to be found in the whole hodgepodge.
None of the thick tools are on the centre line of the workpiece.

If these tools ever ran on this machine, then either there must have been shims for them that are not present now or the predecessor did not know about the necessity of the exact height and always wondered why turning never really worked out for him.

He was a factory electrician in a large engine plant and his survivors said that no one really understood why he wanted such a thing so badly ... that can now say everything or nothing ...

I simply have to make my own shims, that's all, wilco!


Carsten

--

That style of steady is normally the fixed type. Travelling steady has only two points of contact.

Not sure about the inserts. DCMT maybe and T something for the triangular....

 

[slim_boy_fat]

@25.4_mechanic As promised, a pic of my lathe 'feet'. Made from length(s) of threaded bar welded to a steel plate. Fully adjustable - what looks like a rubber washer beneath the washer is just a shadow, there's a nut under the washer for height changing/locking off.

Not the best view, but I'm sure you get the idea - serves me well enough.

 

[prepman]

This one?

View attachment 321933

did someone say something about a steady?

View attachment 321912
There are ball bearings in the tips - does that makes it travelling or does it have to travel itself to be called a travelling steady?


Sounds like he's a closet German, your Yoda ....


Thanks for the info!
Will look out for CCMT 06 inserts.

Can we perhaps clarify together what kind of inserts I have?

View attachment 321914

View attachment 321915


Gosh, that's right, makes sense to me right away. After all, the position of the tool is what matters when turning.

I simply had in mind what I saw when the machine setters came in the companies for which I programmed and organised.
I took that for granted.

So of course I will do both from now on. I wanted to take down the cross support anyway, because it seems to have been greased instead of oiled or preserved with grease beforehand, and Junior's phone won't have to serve as a stopgap for much longer anyway, because this is on its way to me:

View attachment 321917


Nope, no tray, no blocks.


Clearly, I did not explain sufficiently what I was thinking and doing, which is not surprising because I did not think of it for a long time - I could just as well have been completely wrong.

I have modified my little emergency drawing from yesterday:
View attachment 321922
Think of a workshop on the ground floor, with the cellar below.
The thick red line across the picture is the floor ceiling, everything below it is of no interest (as long as the ceiling doesn't collapse into the cellar, of course).

The machine is firmly anchored in the threads in the steel plate, its machine base, the fact that the floor below is insulated (rubber padding) does not affect the stability of the machine on its anchorage, the steel plate.

If the bolts in the feet of the machine are tightened, then they are tightened against the steel plate, not against the base cabinet. If we loosen the bolts and put shims underneath, then it is in relation to the steel plate, not necessarily against the base cabinet.

The fact that the same bolts (threaded rods) go a bit through the floor slab into the basement (the base cabinet) is of no consequence, nor do the nuts with rubber washers screwed on from below have anything to do with the machine above, they are quite loose.

If I haven't explained this sufficiently now, then I probably haven't understood it myself ...



The only surprising thing is that the shims required for this are not to be found in the whole hodgepodge.
None of the thick tools are on the centre line of the workpiece.

If these tools ever ran on this machine, then either there must have been shims for them that are not present now or the predecessor did not know about the necessity of the exact height and always wondered why turning never really worked out for him.

He was a factory electrician in a large engine plant and his survivors said that no one really understood why he wanted such a thing so badly ... that can now say everything or nothing ...

I simply have to make my own shims, that's all, wilco!


Carsten

--

I've an electronic copy of the original Myford Manual. But I can't attach it as it is too big. You're welcome to it if there's away to upload. I don't use 'cloud' storage in any form for a variety of reasons.
I've tended to use DCMT07 inserts as a preference. I can get right into the shoulders and good for copper alloys.
I tend to produce my own bronzes. But I'm running out of our old copper pipes to smelt. Ali/Bronze = Carling Budweiser (changed my drinking habits) cans + copper pipe. For bearing bronze add a pinch of lead and a sprig of manganese to taste. Don't have an Xray-fluorescope so they are approximate.
If you want to see a skilled man at work then watch 'myfordboy' on youtube. Although I don't agree with the de-gassing procedure.

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Myford Manual. But I can't attach it as it is too big. You're welcome to it if there's away to upload. I don't use 'cloud' storage in any form for a variety of reasons.

Thank you very much for your kind offer.
We will find a way, even without the cloud - which, by the way, I also do not use for a variety of reasons.

We'll work it out via PM, I'm sure!
But first, please let's clarify whether I already have it.
Does the cover of your copy look different from this cover and doesn't have 62 pages?

I've tended to use DCMT07 inserts as a preference.

Thanks for that advice!

watch 'myfordboy' on youtube.

Great, thank you, wilco right away.


Wow, you're making up your own bronze!


Good night everbody

Carsten

--

 

[prepman]

Thank you very much for your kind offer.
We will find a way, even without the cloud - which, by the way, I also do not use for a variety of reasons.

We'll work it out via PM, I'm sure!
But first, please let's clarify whether I already have it.
Does the cover of your copy look different from this cover and doesn't have 62 pages?

View attachment 322132



Thanks for that advice!




Great, thank you, wilco right away.


Wow, you're making up your own bronze!


Good night everbody

Carsten

--

You already have the manual, so don't need another copy. Yes it's 62 page. Started making my ali-bronze for my old 24ft sailing yacht. Zinc alloys and seawater don't get on. Couldn't get parts for the cutless bracket. So called because bearing arrangement is 'cutless' by the rotating shaft, tends to be colloquialised into 'cutlass' by seafaring folk.That was turned and theaded on the Myford from the bronze slug in the previous pics. As I said earlier I have made a lot of stuff on the lathe. Originally bought to refurbish electric blower motors.
I'm sure that you will enjoy it over the years.The only limitiation is the size. I moved on to bigger stuff and the Myford wasn't up to it. Still use it for smaller parts.

 

[prepman]

Thank you very much for your kind offer.
We will find a way, even without the cloud - which, by the way, I also do not use for a variety of reasons.

We'll work it out via PM, I'm sure!
But first, please let's clarify whether I already have it.
Does the cover of your copy look different from this cover and doesn't have 62 pages?

View attachment 322132



Thanks for that advice!




Great, thank you, wilco right away.


Wow, you're making up your own bronze!


Good night everbody

Carsten

--

Just had an epiphany! Can you turn anything at the moment? If so, just turn a test bar. If that's OK, then everything else is unnecessary.

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Just had an epiphany! Can you turn anything at the moment? If so, just turn a test bar. If that's OK, then everything else is unnecessary.

Thank you!

Well, after the set of inch Allen keys I ordered turned out to be rubbish (see here) I had filed down a 5mm Allen key to 3/16" (thanks IKEA!) to be able to use the Myford rotating four-way tool holder.

Now I have to pick out from the jumble of completely different turning tools that I got together with the machine those that are not only not completely broken, but with which I can also reach the centre height of the workpiece.

The beginning doesn't look very promising:

10mm shaft: too high!

8.5mm shaft: too high!

8mm shaft: still too high.
(The marks on the front side of the round material are cautious attempts - the middle looks like this because I had to shorten the bar with the hacksaw in the end after all )

So, the answer to the question of whether I can turn at the moment is unfortunately: No.

I will continue to search in the smorgasbord for something suitable in small and if I don't find it, I will continue with the Myford universal tool holder until I know what works ... And - more important - what I actually need ...


But Snooker is about to start and later there will be F1 ... let's see how far I can get today ...

-

As promised, a pic of my lathe 'feet'. Made from length(s) of threaded bar welded to a steel plate. Fully adjustable - what looks like a rubber washer beneath the washer is just a shadow, there's a nut under the washer for height changing/locking off.

Not the best view, but I'm sure you get the idea - serves me well enough.

Thank you!
But these "feet" look considerably more substantial than the ones on my base cabinet:

Have a nice Sunday afternoon everybody

Carsten

--

 

[Richiew]

What you need is a mill to shave a bit of height off those turning tools...

 

[prepman]

What you need is a mill to shave a bit of height off those turning tools...

I've just used a mini angle grinder.

 

[prepman]

Thank you!

Well, after the set of inch Allen keys I ordered turned out to be rubbish (see here) I had filed down a 5mm Allen key to 3/16" (thanks IKEA!) to be able to use the Myford rotating four-way tool holder.

View attachment 322170

Now I have to pick out from the jumble of completely different turning tools that I got together with the machine those that are not only not completely broken, but with which I can also reach the centre height of the workpiece.

The beginning doesn't look very promising:

View attachment 322171

10mm shaft: too high!


View attachment 322174

8.5mm shaft: too high!


View attachment 322178

8mm shaft: still too high.
(The marks on the front side of the round material are cautious attempts - the middle looks like this because I had to shorten the bar with the hacksaw in the end after all )

So, the answer to the question of whether I can turn at the moment is unfortunately: No.

I will continue to search in the smorgasbord for something suitable in small and if I don't find it, I will continue with the Myford universal tool holder until I know what works ... And - more important - what I actually need ...


But Snooker is about to start and later there will be F1 ... let's see how far I can get today ...

-



Thank you!
But these "feet" look considerably more substantial than the ones on my base cabinet:

View attachment 322179

Have a nice Sunday afternoon everybody

Carsten

--

If that isn't a tipped tool, then just grind the tip down to centre it.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

But these "feet" look considerably more substantial than the ones on my base cabinet:

I'd say your's are the same as mine looking at the two pics together, although slightly different shape [maybe a previous owner of mine modded it? ]. I made the oblong 'speader' plate on the floor from scrap steel.

 

[brightspark]

your using the wrong tool for cutting and facing thats a parting tool .use a left hand cranked tool with a very slight radius on it to give a good finish or use a strait cutting tool with a slight radius tool . easy enough to grind them up being hss