Myford ML7

[brightspark]

there ok for light milling on small parts mainly used for model making if u haven't a mill

 

[25.4_mechanic]

You need a lot of patience.

there ok for light milling on small parts mainly used for model making if u haven't a mill

Yes, ok, light milling when you have to help yourself, a lot of patience in all operations - it is not a manufacturing machine.

Got it.


My oilers

are completely gummed up by the looks of it.

Along with the not so nice sound when trying the lathe out, my impulse is to take them out, disassemble and clean thoroughly - including in an ultrasonic bath.

Are there any dangers to these things in the process?

Thanks!

Carsten

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[Pete.]

Don't put them in yuor ultrasonic. Just flush them with light oil like duck oil or even wd40 then empty them out nd fill with whatever spindle oil is specified.

You shouldn't run that machine spidle unlubricated. Even if you remove the oilers and pump the oil into the screw holes it would be something.

 

[brightspark]

once you clean the oilers out and refit fill with oil lift the pins up vertical and turn the screws till you get a consistent drip of oil down through the bottom sight glass in to the spindle. it only needs a couple of drops a minute .then just shut the top lever over when finished running

 

[Richiew]

You've bought a lathe and are now firmly on the slippery slope (Contradiction in terms there). Just buy a mill and have done with it. It is easier in the long the term if you just succumb.

 

[25.4_mechanic]

You shouldn't run that machine spidle unlubricated.

I kept the running really, really short and couldn't change anything at the visit/collection either.

Sure, "keep it greasey so it'll go down easy" (FZ).

oil lift the pins up vertical and turn the screws till you get a consistent drip

Is that so? I thought with the lever flipped, the nozzle needle would be lifted and the way for the oil would be clear .... ?!?

Or have I installed a different type of oiler?

Should I even try to take the oiler apart?

You've bought a lathe and are now firmly on the slippery slope (Contradiction in terms there). Just buy a mill and have done with it. It is easier in the long the term if you just succumb.

Once you interfere with the internal affairs of another country, you are on a slippery slope ... Who said that?

Yes, when milling starts to make up a strong part of the activities, it would be consistent to buy a milling machine ... Hey, I just bought a lathe that I could afford, if I could afford a milling machine in addition, I probably wouldn't have picked that particular lathe?!??

I get it, take the machine for the job that is most suitable - But not exactly the motto for the Unimog driver either, is it?

Carsten

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[25.4_mechanic]

once you clean the oilers out and refit fill with oil lift the pins up vertical and turn the screws till you get a consistent drip of oil down through the bottom sight glass in to the spindle. it only needs a couple of drops a minute .then just shut the top lever over when finished running

You were right, I was wrong: It is also the case with my oilers that the little levers in the upright position lift the needle and allow oil to flow.

And after filling with Ballistol oil, it is now also dripping again, but the discoloration is still there for the time being.

Carsten

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[25.4_mechanic]

Finally!
The ML7 is up in the house and connected (SWMBO is still with me):

But, the work is just beginning: I see which important gears are missing or defective, I have to get them; still I turn steel only conical, I have to reinforce the placement of the machine, the original base cabinet is pretty and nice to have, but way too flimsy - I'm thinking of a strong steel plate, the extra height will come in handy.

Carsten

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[Pete.]

Let me know what gears you are mising and I will check my collection.

 

[brightspark]

the myford cabinet is well strong enough bolted down on to something solid and at the correct height for working they wouldn't make them if they wernt

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Let me know what gears you are mising and I will check my collection.

Hi Pete,
thank you very much!
PM coming soon.

the myford cabinet is well strong enough bolted down on to something solid and at the correct height for working they wouldn't make them if they wernt

I got the impression from comparing pictures and catalog excerpts that there were several similar looking, yet different base cabinets.
Maybe different sheet metal was used for export?!?

If I hang a light source behind the machine and make a small oil pool on the base cabinet, then I can see the vibrations and also larger movements there quite well when the machine is running.

Certainly does not help that I have used the rubber washers of the previous owner under the machine again - they definitely fly in the trash ...

because since today there is this:

Am further grateful for any advice, tip, offer,

Carsten

--

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Let me know what gears you are mising and I will check my collection.

Pete,
did you get my PM yesterday?
Thanks.

Carsten

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[Pete.]

Pete,
did you get my PM yesterday?
Thanks.

Carsten

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I did - but I did a 22 hr day so didn't have the energy to reply

i'll have a read now I've started functioning again.

 

[JMS1972]

Hi Pete,
thank you very much!
PM coming soon.




I got the impression from comparing pictures and catalog excerpts that there were several similar looking, yet different base cabinets.
Maybe different sheet metal was used for export?!?

If I hang a light source behind the machine and make a small oil pool on the base cabinet, then I can see the vibrations and also larger movements there quite well when the machine is running.

Certainly does not help that I have used the rubber washers of the previous owner under the machine again - they definitely fly in the trash ...

because since today there is this:

View attachment 321429

Am further grateful for any advice, tip, offer,

Carsten

--

They did an industrial stand and a hobby stand. There was also an optional drip tray which would add another layer of stiffness.

You might need to increase the height somehow if you are taller than the average 1950's Brit.

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Mine has mounting blocks between the lathe and the stand which is different to yours, in that it has a coolant tray built-in.

They did an industrial stand and a hobby stand. There was also an optional drip tray which would add another layer of stiffness.

You might need to increase the height somehow if you are taller than the average 1950's Brit.

Is this in the picture what you are talking about?
Definitely looks professional, but might be for something bigger than an ML7?!?

Just offered here, seller is talking 120kg for this base with coolant reservoir and pump....

Carsten

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[JMS1972]

Is this in the picture what you are talking about?
Definitely looks professional, but might be for something bigger than an ML7?!?

View attachment 321495

Just offered here, seller is talking 120kg for this base with coolant reservoir and pump....

Carsten

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I've not seen one with raising blocks that big. But if the lathe fits that looks pretty sturdy.

In fact it looks like a stand for the Mini-Kop from Myford.

Photo halfway down this page
"Myford Mini Kop Lathe" http://www.lathes.co.uk/myfordminikop/index.html

Which was a hydraulic copy lathe aimed at industrial customers.

 

[Pete.]

Far as I know Myford didn't make any lathe bigger than the 7. I like those riser blocks though.

 

[JMS1972]

Far as I know Myford didn't make any lathe bigger than the 7. I like those riser blocks though.

The 254 had a bigger swing not sure if was any longer.

 

[Rannsachair]

Mine was on Myford raising blocks and I bolted the base to a sheet of plywood as I am 6' 3"

I found the original Myford stand with the drip tray rigid enough though shimmed the lathe to level it.

 

[brightspark]

if your getting vibration the motor may not be resiliently mounted