need advise - welding metal sheet with stick:/ has ended up like this:D

[rich r]

As above - you need to get all that slag out, and both bits of metal back to being flat and shiny clean. You might have to reshape the edge of the new bit so it fits better too - either trim it down or build it up and file it back so you've got less than 1mm gap.

 

[stuvy]

use a die grinder or dremmel if you cant get your angle grinder closer to it

 

[Drains]

You can't weld that! Get all the crap off. All of it.

If this forum had an epic fail bin, that welding would be in it. And I'm sorry to say oil in the metal isn't the problem. It's the terrible welding. Sorry if that seems mean, but I'm being honest.

You have to learn how to weld before you apply it to something real.

 

[snowcat]

Drains has pretty much said what I was going to.

There is no point in trying to reweld that sump until you can weld (really weld) running before walking springs to mind.

 

[penfold]

Er, what they just said. ^^^

 

[the]

yep,. that looked really *****

though, i did some testing with 6013 1.6mm - honestly - layin down a straight line is no problem - have to keep as short arc as possible and the bead is consistent with slag comin off easily.. though ! - doin a T-joint / fillet with these tiny rods seems impossible..! just to clarify - straight lines or even connecting two sheet metals next each other is ok...

but T joint... why? I get slag all over it yet the other side dont even get weld on it in some sections... is it neccesary to have 0mm space between the vertical and horizontal part? is there any special movement to get connection on T-piece with such ****** small rods? or those rods I am using are junk?
btw I tried 7014s on t - 2.5mm - much easier and better lookin weld than with 6013 (though need more amps to run than 6013 of the same size... - yet burns trough slower than 6013s...

(no wonder that thing ended up like this after grinding it off shoiuld have practised those tiny rods before I started with it...

 

[Lawnmowerboy]

The problem with the little rods is that you end up with more slag/flux than metal going down, 2.5mm rods might be beasier and decent branded rods might help too.

 

[dannyp]

thats the type of thing a MIG or TIG is for

small rods like 1.6mm are just hatefull things they put down so much slag in relation to the amount of weld.

IMO useing any rod smaller than a 2.5 is a waste of time also as the rods get smaller quality seems to matter more

i can pick up a box of cheep and nasty 4mm rods that have been sat outside getting rained on and going rusty for weeks and get a resonable weld out of them without much bother. a fresh box of the same make 2.5's takes more effort to get a resonable weld from. i hate to think what cheep 1.6's are like

 

[Drains]

doin a T-joint / fillet with these tiny rods seems impossible..! just to clarify - straight lines or even connecting two sheet metals next each other is ok...

Ferra start, when you're practicing, do the runs so each one sits on the side of the previous one. That'll give you your first easy practice approximating a fillet. Doing a run on it's own is a doddle and unreal. Doing run on run gives you an indication of whether you're set up right - you want to have no slag inclusion between each weld. If you do, you need to check/change amps, rod angle, travel speed, arc length. You might also (this is very important) learn to distinguish the slag from the weld, which you're welding. They are different shades, and you should get that in just a few runs as long as you're looking for it. Then you can see when you're getting slag inclusion as it happens and act to rectify it - which might mean stopping and changing current, or slowing or speeding up your travel, or closing the arc length or even flicking the slag out with the end of the rod.

Stick welding is a very simple process but it requires finesse in order to make it work, much like plastering or hanging wallpaper or hitting in nails with a hammer. It's only when you have a go that you realise how hard it is to be a pro.

As Danny says - 1.6s are not easy. They do have a place with thin materials though. If your material is 2mm thick you should be able to use 2.5mm rods and it will be much easier. If you are using a DC welder, run electrode negative and the weld will wet out better with less chance of burning through.

 

[Abdulyaqs]

Holder of international diploma in plate welding

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