Need help with a portamig 160x

[Craig dawber]

At the very least you should be able to see and hear if the contactor is operating ! As said it's the big blue and black block device and should clunk when trigger pulled and you should see the center of it move down.

Yes that is going up and down it is also clicking

 

[Craig dawber]

But as Jim says. Check that that's the right voltage. They do 12, 24, 48 and 230v types.

It says 240v 50hz

 

[Jim Davey]

240v coil then, crack on.

 

[Craig dawber]

I would like to thank everyone for all your help and your vast amount of knowledge hopefully get the old girl sorted

 

[mike 109444]

So now you know that the coil in the contactor is being "operated" then you can check IF you have any weld power being fed through. If you release the wire feed roller clamp and pull at the tip end of torch aprox 3 inches of wire out. Then reclamp wire feed roller. Now point the torch and wire onto the work ground clamp and pull trigger. The wire should fry/melt while touching clamp IF weld power is getting through the contactor. If it does melt the wire then you just have a fault with the wire feed control/supply.

 

[Craig dawber]

So now you know that the coil in the contactor is being "operated" then you can check IF you have any weld power being fed through. If you release the wire feed roller clamp and pull at the tip end of torch aprox 3 inches of wire out. Then reclamp wire feed roller. Now point the torch and wire onto the work ground clamp and pull trigger. The wire should fry/melt while touching clamp IF weld power is getting through the contactor. If it does melt the wire then you just have a fault with the wire feed control/supply.

I have tried this to no avail I have no arc or wireless feed however I do have gas supply so the gas actuator value is fine

 

[mike 109444]

The valve could be 240 (switched by the contactor) or could be a lower voltage and feed by another source (pcb or small transformer).
Need to see where the two wires that feed the wire feed motor go to (ones in black sleeve)
Also trying to figure what is in the top right of the pcb ? (is something missing?)

 

[Craig dawber]

The valve could be 240 (switched by the contactor) or could be a lower voltage and feed by another source (pcb or small transformer).
Need to see where the two wires that feed the wire feed motor go to (ones in black sleeve)
Also trying to figure what is in the top right of the pcb ? (is something missing?)

The two wires run to the contactor there is nothing missing it was working on Saturday when I was welding my transit van I have taken a closer picture of the pcb if that helps

 

[mike 109444]

That's a better pic ! it's a low voltage transformer. 240 in and probable 15 to 20 ish volts out (AC)

 

[mike 109444]

Right as the contactor is being "activated" BUT not feeding through the weld power OR the switching of the feed motor then WITH THE POWER DISCONNECTED AND UNPLUGED it should be possible to separate the two half's of the contactor. There are clips (one the arrow is pointing to see pic) and one at rear that hold the black top section onto the bottom blue section. very carefully pries clips open A BIT and the black section should start to lift off (may push up as it's sprung. Taking care not to let any parts drop out raise it up and you should be able to see the contacts/points in the base part that the top part operates on. you may see that some of the contacts are blackened/charred. If so you may be able to clean the contacts as a temp fix and once clean clip back together. If the points are to burned then it may be past repair.
I had better get to bed, work in morning !

 

[Craig dawber]

Right as the contactor is being "activated" BUT not feeding through the weld power OR the switching of the feed motor then WITH THE POWER DISCONNECTED AND UNPLUGED it should be possible to separate the two half's of the contactor. There are clips (one the arrow is pointing to see pic) and one at rear that hold the black top section onto the bottom blue section. very carefully pries clips open A BIT and the black section should start to lift off (may push up as it's sprung. Taking care not to let any parts drop out raise it up and you should be able to see the contacts/points in the base part that the top part operates on. you may see that some of the contacts are blackened/charred. If so you may be able to clean the contacts as a temp fix and once clean clip back together. If the points are to burned then it may be past repair.
I had better get to bed, work in morning !

Thanks for all your help

 

[Shedendman]

Oh btw,one i have is 48V 50Hz and looks to be only 2 pole or only 2 lots of connections either side,sorry

 

[Craig dawber]

Oh btw,one i have is 48V 50Hz and looks to be only 2 pole or only 2 lots of connections either side,sorry

Thanks for looking and thanks for the help