New 50 L Compressor takes 2 mins 9 secs to fill - is that OK?

[Submariner1]

Just checking if my new compressor is working correctly.
So, I did a timed fill from empty to 10 Bar. (coldish today, in an unheated garage).
It took 2 mins and 9 secs = 2.166 mins
Are my calculations correct.
50L x 10 Bar = 500L = 17.66 cubic feet.
17.66 cu feet / 2.166 mins = 8.15 CFM. (would that be FAD?)

Nuair Spec. Is :
Belt Drive, Dual Piston Pump B2800B @ 1250 rpm.
3 HP Induction Motor 2.2 KW @ 2,850 rpm
76 db.
12 CFM (marketing blurb ) says 12.5 CFM 355 LPM on Tech specs.
People tell me FAD CFM generally equates to 2/3 of Tech Spec, so 12.5 CFM? = 8.33 CFM FAD.
Per Marketing 12 CFM 2/3 = 8 CFM FAD.

Note for the first 14 seconds it is partially venting around the pressure switch thingy, until it reaches 1 or 2 Bar. Then the partial venting stops and allows the pressure to build up more quickly.
I guess it partially vents at the start, to let it have an easy start up, and allow it to run on a 13A plug??
If you knocked 7 seconds off the initial start up time to allow 50% for the partial venting in the first 14 seconds, and therefore assumed it would fill to 10 Bar in 2 mins and 2 seconds; then the estimated FAD would be 8.614 CFM. So better than the spec.

Yes the head does get warm to touch, but definitely not hot.

As a total newbie, I think this all sounds in the right ball park, and the unit is performing as it should?
I am generally pleased with it, especially as it is a lot quieter, than say the direct drive ones. Except When it hits 10 Bar, there is a VERY Loud Hiss as it vents the tube from Pump to Pressure Switch. (Apparently to facilitate an easy startup).

Am I right, that its all working fine?
Only asking as some say their 50L compressors fill in 1.5 mins, but they may have direct drive V configurations running the pump at 2,850 rpm etc.

 

[Bullet2012]

That’s perfect ................................... unless , somethings wrong.

 

[hotponyshoes]

The hiss when it hits target pressure is normal.
I'm not so sure about it venting during start-ups though. None of mine have ever done that.

Does it say anything in the manual about running it in? The last one I got had to have the oil put in then run for 30mins unloaded. I presume it was to bed the rings in or something.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Sounds close enough.

The vent at startup is to reduce load on the motor so it can actually start without tripping out your power supply.

 

[Submariner1]

The hiss when it hits target pressure is normal.
I'm not so sure about it venting during start-ups though. None of mine have ever done that.

Does it say anything in the manual about running it in? The last one I got had to have the oil put in then run for 30mins unloaded. I presume it was to bed the rings in or something.

There is nothing in the manual about the start up partial venting, but it does it every time for 13 seconds from empty.
Maybe I should ask them if this is “as designed”?

I can’t see anything in the manual on running in, but it does say you MUST tighten the head before using the first time (to 24-28 Nm. I went for 27 Nm ... 5 headbolts “clicked” and the 6 th bolt moved the tiniest bit, circa 1 degree. So I would say they were tightened properly.

 

[Submariner1]

Sounds close enough.

The vent at startup is to reduce load on the motor so it can actually start without tripping out your power supply.

Thanks, that is what I assumed.
Very Reassuring you think it sounds about right.
Especially as its my first Compressor, and I haven't a clue about them - other than this belt driven one at 76 db seemed a lot quieter than the direct driven ones with 98db ... very pleased that it is in practice pretty quiet. In my small garage, which backs onto a Neighbours back lawn 98 db is horrible. I have a Router with 98 db and that is hideous ... needs ear muffs IMO.

... and for me it was pretty expensive. Just hope if looked after well, it will last a fairly long time, with low usage.

 

[Wildefalcon]

You know to drain it, right?

Change the oil soon, then once a year, if you don't use it much.

 

[Wallace]

My Clarke vents on start up from empty and the one at work, I vaguely remember looking at mine when it was new and one of the valves needs pressure before it closes.

Edit: This valve on the exhaust, it stays open to allow the pump to get up to speed and closes around 20-30psi. Once closed, the pressure builds up in the exhaust tube until it exceeds the tank pressure keeping the tank non return valve closed.

 

[Submariner1]

My Clarke vents on start up from empty and the one at work, I vaguely remember looking at mine when it was new and one of the valves needs pressure before it closes.

Edit: This valve on the exhaust, it stays open to allow the pump to get up to speed and closes around 20-30psi. Once closed, the pressure builds up in the exhaust tube until it exceeds the tank pressure keeping the tank non return valve closed.

View attachment 262347

Thanks sounds like mine, good to know.

 

[Submariner1]

You know to drain it, right?

Change the oil soon, then once a year, if you don't use it much.

You know to drain it, right?

Change the oil soon, then once a year, if you don't use it much.

thanks yes I drain it everytime I use it , and leave it open. Plus I drain off the water/air filter.

I planned on changing the Oil mid year ( to allow it to run in on the supplied mineral oil) and then replacing with synthetic oil every year.
When you say “change it soon” how soon did you mean and was that to get rid of any debris from the initial run in?

 

[Wallace]

I would stick with the recommended weight mineral oil, it's not a modern high revving engine with a pump to pressure feed the bearings.

 

[Barking Mat]

My Clarke vents on start up from empty and the one at work, I vaguely remember looking at mine when it was new and one of the valves needs pressure before it closes.

Edit: This valve on the exhaust, it stays open to allow the pump to get up to speed and closes around 20-30psi. Once closed, the pressure builds up in the exhaust tube until it exceeds the tank pressure keeping the tank non return valve closed.

View attachment 262347

I stick my thumb on the same valve, when well empty or it takes ages, mines 200l mind.

I hold my thumb their 30 seconds till it stops venting.

Don't let it get empty is my trick.

 

[Submariner1]

I stick my thumb on the same valve, when well empty or it takes ages, mines 200l mind.

I hold my thumb their 30 seconds till it stops venting.

Don't let it get empty is my trick.

Nice trick, sadly this valve is “hidden” somewhere under the Platform. Nice that some of the pipework is shrouded against accidents, but not so practical when it comes to maintenance.

On the idea of not totally emptying the tank. Will one still get still get all the water out?
I assume it would as the force of air should blast it out.

 

[Barking Mat]

Nice trick, sadly this valve is “hidden” somewhere under the Platform. Nice that some of the pipework is shrouded against accidents, but not so practical when it comes to maintenance.

On the idea of not totally emptying the tank. Will one still get still get all the water out?
I assume it would as the force of air should blast it out.

I empty mine once a month if I remember. Or every three months?

 

[Wallace]

On the idea of not totally emptying the tank. Will one still get still get all the water out?
I assume it would as the force of air should blast it out.

Make sure the drain is at the lowest point and open the tap. Be prepared for smelly water spray! You will probably find that the support feet height is set so the tank is at a slight angle so the water pools around the drain tap.

 

[Submariner1]

I would stick with the recommended weight mineral oil, it's not a modern high revving engine with a pump to pressure feed the bearings.

I was going to use Ingersoll Rand’s “ALL SEASON SELECT” Fully Synthetic Multigrade. Apparently designed for ‘reciprocating’ piston pump compressors.
Hoping it would help in the winter (ref an unheated garage) and still perform on hot summer days. And get the wear protection of fully synthetic

I used Mobil 1 0W40 on my first Honda Lawnmower GXV140, had it 30 years and sold to neighbour, who has run it for 13 years more and on my newer Honda GXV160 engine which is now 13 hears old. Both have run well, no issues, and start first pull.
Apart from the initial mineral fill to run them in, synthetic oil still looks like golden syrup at their bi annual oil changes. Over the total 43 years neither engine ever needed the tappets adjusting, always spot on. In my (admittedly mechanically untrained) mind that means there can be very little wear.

after all the fill is only 0.65 L so its not like you are buying 10L needed on my 5.5L Mercedes

As a newbie, I’ll admit I haven't a clue if these compressor pumps are very fussy, or other principles apply. Maybe I will learn the hard way. But FPS are selling the bare pump new for £145. So if I get problems, I’d sell the old (well pretty new pump for say £45 to someone who could repair it and splash out £100 more) ... and learn the lesson LOL.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Get pump oil, no need for fancy, and probably not suited. It's got no combustion by products, doesn't get near car engine temperatures, so no need for long chain hydrocarbon or synthetic.

Mineral oil suits the bearings and seals, thicker film at the pressures and temperatures an air pump works at. I'd actually avoid synthetic, too thin.

If you run it daily, change it after a month. If weekly, 6 months. Thereafter once a year, unless running all the time.

I use Smith and Allen compressor pump oil, it's fine.

I use the air line to drive any undrained oil out of the sump, gets a more comprehensive flush.

 

[skotl]

You know to drain it, right?

Change the oil soon, then once a year, if you don't use it much.

Oh shoot - I never even thought of that. Time to change it on mine, then

 

[Wildefalcon]

Yep, mine is slightly overdue. No more than a decade. But not used much as have not been doing much air stuff, as no air system in new workshop

That's about to change.....

 

[Barking Mat]

Oh shoot - I never even thought of that. Time to change it on mine, then

Good point, did our big one at work five years ago...