New shed: Condensation drips are killing my power tools and rusting my steel

[roofman]

with standard power washer nozzles to boot.
Made the 2" pvc pipe nozzle myself by heating and forming over a piece of wood.

Yes i see that, colour coded ones too. Nice job Fred

 

[gaz1]

as ive already said fit light guage steel to the walls dosnt matter if its level

this is wall stuff 3"-4" then expanding foam gun at rear of it will help

its strong enough for just insulation

seal those edges

then fit the wall bearings as ceiling bearers this is your false ceiling

to finish off plastic clad the hole lot of it using silicone to seal the edges and also the runs

Hollow Soffit Board - 300mm x 10mm x 5mtr White

Hollow Soffit Board - 300mm x 10mm x 5mtr White

www.pvccladding.com

and white screws to screw to the metal

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Self-Drilling-Roofing-Screws-Sealing-Painted/dp/B0B5XMQD69/ref=asc_df_B0B5XMQD69?mcid=66b8c4f7b91b3aaaaeb2b89c642e299e&tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=697201798947&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6945185978835722834&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046690&hvtargid=pla-1888672143962&psc=1&gad_source=1

or its wood batten the sides use 3x2s across wall to wall insulate it and board it

remember seal the ceiling stop any heat getting near that roof

as yours is rented at least you could take it down afterwards when you move and refit elsewhere

 

[zzr1200]

Greetings to all, hope this finds you well. I moved into a new house, rented, and there is a little shed. The roof of the shed is just a single layer of box profile roof sheets, very much like the pic below

View attachment 474116

The issue is that when it gets frosty (every day) the water seems to pool and drip under the sheets, and when it starts to fall its almost like its raining, inside the shed

View attachment 474117

View attachment 474118

Anyone got any ideas how I might deal with this, please?

I'd be inclined to take the roof off carefully and number the sheets.

Then lay OSB board down you may have to put another roof purlin in place for support, then lay Tyvek (?) waterproof membrane sheet, then some 2" x 1" across on top above the purlins, to create an air gap/space.

Buy/make (out of studding?) some longer Roof Hooks, refit the tin sheets in order carefully, reinstate the roof edging in tin or wood and fit some air vent covers..

Depend on one's/friends working locations the ability to acquire new waste building materials as in "Thrown In the Skip"......

Probably the biggest outlay would be the OSB boards.....

Purely my thoughts....

 

[Erie Fred]

I'd be inclined to take the roof off carefully and number the sheets.

Then lay OSB board down you may have to put another roof purlin in place for support, then lay Tyvek (?) waterproof membrane sheet, then some 2" x 1" across on top above the purlins, to create an air gap/space.

Buy/make (out of studding?) some longer Roof Hooks, refit the tin sheets in order carefully, reinstate the roof edging in tin or wood and fit some air vent covers..

Depend on one's/friends working locations the ability to acquire new waste building materials as in "Thrown In the Skip"......

Probably the biggest outlay would be the OSB boards.....

Purely my thoughts....

I have similar, but I don't see the need for the purlins for an air space.
My house was re-roofed with steel, and it's simply down on the wood surface separated with the approved underlayment material, a product called "Sharkskin" in this instance.

 

[zzr1200]

I have similar, but I don't see the need for the purlins for an air space.
My house was re-roofed with steel, and it's simply down on the wood surface separated with the approved underlayment material, a product called "Sharkskin" in this instance.

I suspect it get a bit wet where Ned lives , also the wind lifting the roof panel might rub through the Zyvek layer, our tin roof's do flap/move a bit at times...

 

[Erie Fred]

I suspect it get a bit wet where Ned lives , also the wind lifting the roof panel might rub through the Zyvek layer, our tin roof's do flap/move a bit at times...

Use more screws.
Tin should be down tight.

 

[zzr1200]

Use more screws.
Tin should be down tight.

This true when you have a timber framed building, but brick/block work walls and steel angle iron purlins it's a bit different..

 

[Erie Fred]

This true when you have a timber framed building, but brick/block work walls and steel angle iron purlins it's a bit different..

Really ?
so your roofing tin just flaps up and down and you don't get any leaks ?

My buildings are steel, with steel purlins.
we put screws on 16" center to hit the purlins, and one next to each rib, every 9".

The low slope we add a sticky tape product under the overlapping rib.

 

[Popcorn]

You could always chuck the screws away and bolt it down, that's what I did and they don't move now.

 

[nickk]

I had the same problem after building my steel building,got fed up with the drips,especially melting frost,in 1999, I lined it ,like a drip tray of OSB,nailed to the underside of the purlins,successful apart from the GRP roof lights,cheap as.