Newbie now with TIG.

[dazza]

I probably should have stuck with MIG, but after seeing all the great TIG welds on here i thought i would try it.

Purchased an old EWM AC/DC machine from ebay.

Richard offered to test the machine for me but i messed up the logistics and its being sent to Spain.

I've purchased

A15 TIG Rods - 1.0mm
Ceriated TIG Tungstens Pack of 1.6mm From weldequip.

And some rhino gloves from Tom Orrow L.

I know i need cups etc, but have no idea on the torch (are there different fittings?).

I got 20l of gas for the MIG not sure if i need such a big bottle for the tig?

 

[brianblock]

You'll need pure argon for the tig
Have you a photo of the torch?

 

[dazza]

You'll need pure argon for the tig
Have you a photo of the torch?

No pic of the torch, i'm going to be like a kid at christmas so would like to have everything i need. I may get a small bottle of argon just incase i'm rubbish/welder does not work.

 

[dazza]

I have a esab warrior lid the lowest shade is 9 will this be ok?

 

[brianblock]

I use 9 mostly

 

[Jim Davey]

Give me a shout if you run into any difficulties with it.

 

[dazza]

Went and got gas today there was only €8 difference between the 10L and 20L, so i went for 20L. Hopefully i get on with TIG as i don't think i really need TIG and MIG.

 

[Richard.]

I have a esab warrior lid the lowest shade is 9 will this be ok?

I'm never at lower than 11 and usually 12. Everyone finds a sweet shade to suit them selves.

 

[zx9]

Good move on the 20L Argon, as a beginner doing lots of practice beads you will get through gas quite quickly. I hope you enjoy the welder when it arrives.

 

[dazza]

I'm never at lower than 11 and usually 12. Everyone finds a sweet shade to suit them selves.

I always have it on shade 9 with MIG and struggle to see what i'm doing.

Will 1mm rods be ok? tried to pick up some 1.6's local and they only sell the in 5kg packs. As they are 1m long shipping them from the uk costs a bit.

 

[KingMT]

I have a old helmet that I don't remember a day that 9 didn't seem really dark. I thought it was just my eyes bad. I bought a new helmet probably about a year ago now that 9 isn't all that bad.

 

[Richard.]

I always have it on shade 9 with MIG and struggle to see what i'm doing.

Will 1mm rods be ok? tried to pick up some 1.6's local and they only sell the in 5kg packs. As they are 1m long shipping them from the uk costs a bit.

Try a darker shade you'll be surprised at what you can see.
It's a common misconception that the lightest shade allows you to see more where as in actual fact it tends to elaborate more around the arc which for me is a distraction. 9 on AC with 100amps behind the arc would be difficult for me. I'd see more of the arc and what the arc is illuminating and struggle to focus on what I need to see. (Joint/pool/rod).
1mm a15 is perfect for 20-50 amps (0.5-1.5mm steel) 1.6 is good for 70-100 amps 2-3mm steel. 0.8mig wire and 1.2 tend to bridge those gaps
Once you get going you'll find you widen the range a filler can be used for by filling and traveling at different rates. I don't keep every size I make sizes work with a slightly wider range within there limits and just keep a few.

 

[Richard.]

Shade is a personal thing. Start high and work down

 

[Brad93]

I use shade 10 for up to around 100 amps on dc, shade 12 for AC.
Sometimes have to go to 9 on low amps.

 

[dazza]

Try a darker shade you'll be surprised at what you can see.
It's a common misconception that the lightest shade allows you to see more where as in actual fact it tends to elaborate more around the arc which for me is a distraction. 9 on AC with 100amps behind the arc would be difficult for me. I'd see more of the arc and what the arc is illuminating and struggle to focus on what I need to see. (Joint/pool/rod).
1mm a15 is perfect for 20-50 amps (0.5-1.5mm steel) 1.6 is good for 70-100 amps 2-3mm steel. 0.8mig wire and 1.2 tend to bridge those gaps
Once you get going you'll find you widen the range a filler can be used for by filling and traveling at different rates. I don't keep every size I make sizes work with a slightly wider range within there limits and just keep a few.

I have a bit of 2mm plate, will this be ok with the 1mm rods?

 

[Jim Davey]

I'd say 1.2 would be better, 1.6 probably a little too much. A larger filler will help to absorb a little heat and prevent holes, this is a common problem for beginners as they tend to travel far too slowly building up masses of heat. So using a bigger rod can help a little. You'll really have to motor along on 2mm with a 1mm filler.

 

[dazza]

I'd say 1.2 would be better, 1.6 probably a little too much. A larger filler will help to absorb a little heat and prevent holes, this is a common problem for beginners as they tend to travel far too slowly building up masses of heat. So using a bigger rod can help a little. You'll really have to motor along on 2mm with a 1mm filler.

What would be best get some thinner plate or thicker rods? What easiest for a newbie? I just want to run a few beads and see if the machine is working.

 

[Paul.]

2mm is nice for learning on, you should keep a few rods of each size for different types of joint, a 1mm or 1.2 will run nice neat fillet welds butts and laps but will you may find them a bit small for open (outside) corners.

 

[dazza]

Trying to suss out these controls.

There are two DC-?

Negative torch and negative torch with ignition taking place with positive polarity.

The switch at the bottom right is not in the manual is the HF/LIFT.

So DC - around 60amps for 2mm? If someone could suggest what i do with the rest of the buttons that would be great.

 

[dazza]

The Welder has arrived.

It has a WP 26 Torch and number 6 cup.

A brand new parweld reg. Luckily i have a parweld flow meter i bought for my other reg. Just a pity my bottle has a side exit.

The earth clamp is a little bent and by the looks of it someone has had a mess about with the power lead (where it goes into the back of the welder).

It powers up. What next i have no idea what i'm doing