Newbie now with TIG.

[Richard.]

Well do you have any metal?
Have you connected everything up?
1st off press the torch switch and make sure you have gas and Hf (on Hf start mode) if you hear clicks and buzzes this is a good sign.

 

[dazza]

Well do you have any metal?
Have you connected everything up?
1st off press the torch switch and make sure you have gas and Hf (on Hf start mode) if you hear clicks and buzzes this is a good sign.

The metal is prepped and the tungsten is sharpened the best i could .

But the reg i got with it does not fit my gas bottle. Going to try and get one later.

Trying to get the machine settings set.

Ive set it to Latching.
ls 0
Up slope 0
l1 60amps
down slope 2s
l2 0
Post Gas 5 Seconds
DC- (not the one with the star)
Torch is plugged into negative.

Not touched buttons next to the DC two are on 0 and the other is on 75hz.

What cup(s) would be best this one looks a little manky.

 

[dazza]

Here is a better pic of how i have it set.

 

[eSCHEn]

Lol that's not manky Daz, you'll get them a lot worse than that

If the exit hole is clean and not full of bits of crap then just use it. If it is full then give it a scrape out with something, just as you would with a MIG but a wee bit gentler as it's ceramic and more brittle.

Number 7 or 8 is pretty much "standard" for most stuff but a 6 isn't really going to hurt to learn on.

When I got the TIG (also EWM) I worried about damaging the ceramics but really they're quite tough and I've only managed to kill one by doing a very very close butt joint and didn't give the ceramic room to cool at all. They crack lovely

Collet bodies last through all sorts but if you go down the gas lens route then don't do scabby welding with them - nothing galv for sure. They bung up quite easily with that stuff.

 

[brianblock]

Just twist flowmeter 90deg
Dial will be fine horizontal, I have my mig and tig just like that

 

[dazza]

Just twist flowmeter 90deg
Dial will be fine horizontal, I have my mig and tig just like that

That was the plan but this reg has a male fitting and i need a female.

Was going to use the reg from the mig but the pipe is very thin and has a different fitting.

 

[brianblock]

Your argon cylinder has a male thread? Not seen one of those before

 

[dazza]

Whats the Is for the manual states variable ignition current (search arc)

 

[dazza]

Your argon cylinder has a male thread? Not seen one of those before

 

[Hood]

Your argon cylinder has a male thread? Not seen one of those before

Possibly the NEVOC cylinder fitting, I use them, the bottle I have is 300 bar and something like 9 cubic meters from a half size bottle.

 

[Hood]

Yes that is a NEVOC fitting.

 

[Richard.]

Yes that's a nevok fitting.
You need a nevok reg. no tools required just hand tight.

 

[dazza]

So far so good. Went to get a reg but they wanted €96 so i got a smaller gas fitting for the welder so i can use the reg and tube from the caddy mig.

Gas flows and it makes a buzzing noise if i hold the button down. Also got a number 7 and 8 cup and a few free stainless and alu rods.

After i put the kids in bed i will be burning some holes .

Do the other settings look ok? don't want to break it.

DC neg and torch negative?

 

[dazza]

Stacking some dimes

I cant feed the rod have to stop as i get to close. Also trying to keep the rod close to the gas and it melts.

Is the soot normal?

At least the work bench looks nice.

 

[Richard.]

If that's your first go you should be pleased with that. Your machine appears to be doing as it should.
Decrease your arc length that should clear the soot.

 

[dazza]

If that's your first go you should be pleased with that. Your machine appears to be doing as it should.
Decrease your arc length that should clear the soot.

Thanks Richard. The welds got worse as i got on to the second test plate, think i had a bad earth, then i destroyed the tungsten tip a couple of times.

I can really see how much wider the arc is when the tungsten in not sharp.

Ignore the L and R on the plates i was planing on using both hands but kept the torch in the right hand.

The torch handle/button turns which is annoying as i get comfortable then the torch moves then i struggle to press the button to stop.

Is it normal for HF to be hard to start if tungsten not sharp?

Thats enough for one day.

 

[Richard.]

Is it normal for HF to be hard to start if tungsten not sharp

Yes.
If the tungsten is contaminated the striking will be effected. It does vary though from machine to machine. Some are stronger than others.
I had a mls2300 and that thing was unreal for striking through any contamination on the tungsten. Better striker than any other I've used. My Rehm on the other hand will only tolerate so much before it simply won't strike.
Clean tungsten and it will jump an inch gap. It's very normal.

 

[dazza]

Thanks again Richard, can i use a stainless rod on mild steel? I struggle feeding the rod so would like to try a thicker one.

 

[Richard.]

Yes you can while your laying beads on plates and developing the technique. It doesn't really matter. What will be noticeable though if your SS rod is thicker than suitable for the current your using you will feel it stick in the pool and it will chill it too much. You if your plate can take it turn up the current for the thicker rod.

 

[dazza]

A bit more practicing this morning. Some of these are with the thicker SS wire @ 80 amps.

Keep getting a tickle from the HF as my knee is touching the bench .

Any pointers appreciated.