Nice outboard engine stand max of 300hp

[phill d]

For anyone on here with outboard engines, here is a nice project i made for myself and something
that I needed but would of cost me a fortune to buy ready made from a marine outlet.
I have seen and used all the wooden types and find them not realy good enough for my use.
Plus you still have to get the engine from the boat to stand or stand to boat etc.

I looked around at outboard engine stands and noticed just how expensive they are.
Not the silly barrow types for max of 40hp to be safely pushed about, i needed one to hold a
much bigger outboard.
So in my wisdom I decided to make one that will cater for whatever outboard I might come across.
With me allways making stuff that's far to strong, I decided this must be capable of holding
a 300hp v8 outboard to work on.
First thing was obviously to get some wheels, Thanks Tesco for leaving out a few scrap trolley's.
( well I think they were scrap ).
Then I needed to clean up a load of 2x2 strong walled box section to make my base and uprights etc.
I used a grandson for the cleaning up with a flap wheel on a grinder, I found this to be very easy
for me and only cost a few bags of sweets and a flap wheel for the grinder.
The result was perfect in that I can simply unbolt the main uprights that hold the main plate
the outboard bolts to put it in garage as flat pack standing up etc.
also I made the main uprights so they can be raised of lowered so can take from shortshaft to
extra long shaft engines, this can be a difference of 10 inches.
with the large swivelling wheels it can be simply manoeuvred around and very safe to work on
a outboard engine even with engine in full tilt position.
this had to be made so the engine could be lifted from a boat to the stand, so I made a couple
of 6ft uprights to bolt on the side and the back with a hand winch to raise and lower the engine.
Once the weight it taken the normal uprights are removed leaving the engine hanging and can
be simply pushed to the rear of the boat with trolley going under a trailer letting the outboard
be fitted to the transom of the boat.. by using a geared winch this can be done nice and easy
and safely.
the engine in the pics is only 130 kilo's, but ive got a 600 kilo winch to make sure its safe.
and simply do the same in revers to get engine from boat to stand etc.
Also I made it so a couple of simple bearers can be placed across the chassis to take a 100 gallon
water butt for engine running and testing, this is a very stable outboard testing set -up especially
when the water but is full. The front step looking platform hold battery and fuel tank.

we have used this a few times and it makes life so easy, yes the engine can be lifted by 2 people to
fit it to a boat, but not in safety.
The engines are top heavy and if they fall can do damage that cost a fortune.
I have seen similar to my available in the states and they cost around £1,000.
Mine cost me a bit of mig wire, 3 bags of sweets for grandson, 3 flap wheels and a tin of
silver hammerite, so not much at all.

anyone can build this very simply and have a nice safe platform to work on the engines.
it can hold upto 3 seagull outboards or 2 x 30hp side by side or 1 x single upto a max of 300hp

here is a few pics of said outboard stand with and without a 60hp on it.


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phill

 

[roofman]

you sure thats a 100 gallon water tank

 

[phill d]

No that tank in the pic is only a 60 gallon tank that got pinched from me, but I have another tank like it that I now use that
is longer, wider and deeper that holds 100 gallon and still fits on the frame, with a tap on end to let water out when finished using it.
The tank on there in the pic got pinched by a thieving scumbag who crept up and got it the one and only night it was out.
I hope they used it in their loft as it had a leak in it

phill

 

[roofman]

No that tank in the pic is only a 60 gallon tank that got pinched from me, but I have another tank like it that I now use that
is longer, wider and deeper that holds 100 gallon and still fits on the frame, with a tap on end to let water out when finished using it.
The tank on there in the pic got pinched by a thieving scumbag who crept up and got it the one and only night it was out.
I hope they used it in their loft as it had a leak in it

phill

LOL...anyway the stand looks a great job mate

 

[lotus_esprit_s1]

Are you sure that would hold a 300hp safely? I have just fitted a new powerheadthe to the latest yamaha f250 vvt which let go last year and they are rather heavier than the "evenworse!"

 

[roofman]

pics of my old bad boy...XR2 Merc. Sorry for thread hijack but talks of boat engines get me sparked

 

[phill d]

my stand will hold that v6 merc dead easy. and my simple crane will lift it not problem
to test my crane I swung on the 60hp engine while my friend used the winch, I weigh 115 kilo and engine weighs around 130 kilo.

here is a similar one for you to look at that's made by k&l in the usa . mine is stronger than their one, no silly thin plates holding it together.
There are tubes inside the corner pieces on mine to give it extra strength, cannot afford to have an outboard falling on me.
I built it with the thought of a 300hp extra long shaft 25 inch model possibly being needed to be on it for service work.
Have already had a 150 optimax on it and a ficht 150 and they were no problem at all.
need to fit a couple of extra removable stabilisers for when the larger engines are on full tilt, it was not a problem but looked a bit scary to be honest.

watch the video on this site, notice the size of engine at the end !! and notice the removable side stabilisers

http://www.klsupply.com/JACKSANDSTANDS/STANDS/KLDREADNOUGHTOUTBOARDENGINESTAND.aspx



phill

 

[the snooper]

pics of my old bad boy...XR2 Merc. Sorry for thread hijack but talks of boat engines get me sparked

nice engines those, but shaft length is too short for that boat, the cavitation plate should be level with the bottom of the transom, it would have gone even better had it been level or within an inch or so

 

[the snooper]

No that tank in the pic is only a 60 gallon tank that got pinched from me, but I have another tank like it that I now use that
is longer, wider and deeper that holds 100 gallon and still fits on the frame, with a tap on end to let water out when finished using it.
The tank on there in the pic got pinched by a thieving scumbag who crept up and got it the one and only night it was out.
I hope they used it in their loft as it had a leak in it

phill

I never had a problem with the stand I left it attached to the boat and used water muffs to run the engine out of water, I regret getting rid on a nice summers day when the water is flat

 

[phill d]

lotus,
the yam 250 don't even weigh 300 kilo, so yes it would very easily carry the yam 250. the heaviest 350 yam only weighs 370kilo so even that would be no problem.
the wheels are rated for 500 kilo per set of 4 , the tube box section is very thick wall not flimsy stuff.

 

[phill d]

people who think the merc is too short for that boat do not know about fast outboard boats.
a level cav plate is for slow stuff, that engine is making the boat ride high in surface mode. by having it up as high as possible there is very little gearbox drag
and you cant see it properly but its got a different gearbox with a nose cone and low water pick up.
The idea is to get as little amount of drag as possible, and getting the prop up and running surface piercing mode to gain highest possible speed.
Also less chance of prop causing chine walking and blow out.
an idea point of height would be the centre of the prop level with very bottom of boat.

here is an example with my small dory and 60hp rude , first pic is "normal" height as in cav plate level with bottom of transom,
second pic is with a 4.5 inch set back and a 5 inch jack plate to raise it up. (note the semi-cleaver over hub prop for surface ).


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phill

 

[the snooper]

people who think the merc is too short for that boat do not know about fast outboard boats. phill

really ?
when a boat is on the plane the bottom of the boat skims the water much as a water ski will, if the outboard is high up the transom it will be further out of the water then it should be and can start to cavitate of pull in air from the atmosphere.

don't think that's right ? im sure there will be info on google

 

[phill d]

sorry snooper but you realy are not up to scratch on the quick boat stuff.
the boat as you say is skimming the surface of the water, but having a prop down so low is not going to give you top performance.
The whole idea of using surface props is to get air into the prop and run the prop high so as less drag is happening.
and you only want a tiny bit of boat touching the water

just watch this little video and see what a quick boat looks like when running the engine high.
this little 14ft boat can do 100mph every day of the week, on a good day 115mph !!!

 

[Wedg1e]

Hey I don't care who's right or wrong, that is impressive, and I'm not a fan of boats

 

[roofman]

nice engines those, but shaft length is too short for that boat, the cavitation plate should be level with the bottom of the transom, it would have gone even better had it been level or within an inch or so

Iff you know your Mercs you would have seen it had a low water pick-up on the gearbox (cle)..bullet end level with the bottom and surface props like a good old cleaver or Yam drag dont like deep water...forget the cav plate on these type of set-ups as it means nothing

 

[roofman]

really ?
when a boat is on the plane the bottom of the boat skims the water much as a water ski will, if the outboard is high up the transom it will be further out of the water then it should be and can start to cavitate of pull in air from the atmosphere.

don't think that's right ? im sure there will be info on google

Mate believe me your wrong on this one

 

[the snooper]

Mate believe me your wrong on this one

this is what ive always known to be the case, and ive just googled it and all the sites i have looked on say the same thing here is a screen shot of one of them

 

[roofman]

this is what ive always known to be the case, and ive just googled it and all the sites i have looked on say the same thing here is a screen shot of one of them View attachment 60184

LOL with all respects matey your not getting the picture here...race boats as in my pics dont have a normal set up regarding cav plates,they basicly fly as apposed to sail the water. My props on all my boats and ime talking phantoms..rings..marshans ect dont chop deep water,hence the name "surface pierce props". Now the gearbox...The XR2 was a full factory race engine that never even came with a warranty and was aimed for the 2 litre racing class,the water pick-up on my paticular engine was at the forward facing bullet shape in the form of 3 small holes with the normal side vents blocked off,hence another name "low water pick-up box" or CLE..google that too iff you must. I fully understand what your on about with the cavitation plate at the bottom of transom and yes thats fine for pleasure craft but the pics i posted of one of my boats has in fact the motor too low as that w/end we were going skiing so i wanted stability so i must say again please know the game before you start spouting off your right

 

[phill d]

SNOOPER
WHAT BOAT AND WHAT ENGINE DO YOU HAVE OR HAD ?

it can be very hard for people who have only ever gone a "normal" set up to understand how quick boats work.
The difference is chalk and cheese when it comes to fast boats.

BUT every boat can benefit from raising the outboard a certain amount even with the "normal " props.
The average level cav plate as just a starting point, especially if you only have a cheap aluminium prop on the engine, these are crap.
if you want to cruise off plane then level is pretty good as it will give the boat a decent attitude and be a sort of good all-rounder.
But once you start getting on plane everything changes big time.

For this with normal longshaft engines there are things called jack plates, these can be manual as in the one in pic with outboard engine raised up to a set height.
For the more serious and those with a few quid who want to get it perfect, you get a hydraulic or electric jack plate.
These just like power trim can be operated from the driving seat.
You set the plate at its lowest setting and that is with a level to bottom of boat cav plate.
Once the boat gets on plane you raise the outboard up and when the revs are at maximum and the boat stops gaining speed this is the height you want.
This speed will be far more than with the anti cavitation plate level with bottom of the boat and you gain performance and save on fuel big time

Now my little 4 metre dory is nothing like a race boat hull and my boat only reaches around the 40 to 45 mph range. but even mine needs to be up 3 inches
to get it past 37mph !!!
3 or 4 mph might not sound much, but it is a lot when you think its 10% gain on a boat with a hull like a shed..

my boat was only designed with a maximum speed of 34mph, and running with a level cav plate and average prop that is about all she will do.
But put a decent prop on it and its a different ball game.

Now I have just drilled one of my props,( another thread has more about this) this is another thing that many people will not know about, venting a prop
for better hole shot (acceleration).
the prop below is a 13 inch diameter by 19 inch pitch stainless omc sst prop. with the new vent holes the prop will perform like a 15 inch pitch on
pull away but still give the same 19 pitch performance once on plane.

here is a couple of pics of a vented prop of mine now.

Here it is after drilling the prop. perfect vents in the RIGHT place ...
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Below is the pull away with a 15 inch pitch prop.
But I want this pull away but with more top end speed, so I have to vent my 19 to get this same holeshot.

when do you see a 4 metre Orkney dory's pull away like this ? only 37mph top end but zero to plane under 3 seconds. 13.5 x 15 omc ali prop .

phill

 

[phill d]

here is the difference between a normal stainless prop and a surface piercing prop.
Both are my props the normal one (first pic) is 13x 19 pitch sst thru hub exhaust prop.
2nd pic is a 13 3/4 x 23 pitch omc silver streak/srx over hub surface piercing semi -cleaver prop.
Both props fit the same gearbox/engine. but each prop needs to run at a different height to get max performance from it.

Below is the silver streak / srx over hub exhaust prop.