Old Petrol Compressor - Help Please

[Laspaz]

I have just picked up this large vintage compressor and need some educating if anyone feels inclined.

It has a Villiers Mk20 engine, which I have running but I need to fix the leaking fuel tap and the carb linkage is stuck.

The pump is a Broom and Wade Ltd DCL 15. It does make air, but I am hesitant to run it until I understand all the safety valves work, as I don't want to blow myself up.

I am interested in restoring this, and would like to hear any info on the age, and how it looks safety wise.

Cheers!

 

[Parm]

Can't help you with the compressor but interested to see how you get on

 

[Laspaz]

Cheers Parm, I will keep things updated if there is interest.

Just some additional info:

The pressure gauge jumps around... is that because I have only run it for a minute and it's turbulant in the tank, or should I replace the gauge?

Can anyone confirm if the twin cylinder pump is one or two stage?

 

[Parm]

Cheers Parm, I will keep things updated if there is interest.

Just some additional info:

The pressure gauge jumps around... is that because I have only run it for a minute and it's turbulant in the tank, or should I replace the gauge?

Can anyone confirm if the twin cylinder pump is one or two stage?

Always major interest on anything getting, repaired, upgraded, rejuvenated and all the othervstuff I can't think of now

 

[octo0072000]

the wheels and tow bar are not original by the looks of it
looks like it's original feet have been cut off when it was make into a mobile unit

 

[Laspaz]

That's correct Octo, I can see where the feet were cut off. It was last registered for road use in 1975.

 

[Digger6135]

Its a twin cylinder single stage compressor with unloading gear, of prime importance before you run this compressor is an internal examination of the air reciver, using a boroscope, these can be obtained quite cheaply, if internal condition is sound, then all connections should be blanked off and a hydraulic test carried out, after having first filled the receiver with water, test it to twice working pressure, if it passes test, then and only then, run it as a compressor, slacken off the safety valve then gradually increase the pressure in stages, the fluctuating pressure should be replaced with a fluid damped gauge.

Digger6135

 

[Laspaz]

Thanks digger. I shall pressure test the tank. Cheers.

 

[Digger6135]

Thanks digger. Is they hydro test something I should attempt myself? Cheers.

Yes you could do, but to have any validity it should be tested with a calibrated pressure gauge, have you any model engineering society's in your area, you might try there, they may do it for a donation to their funds.

Digger6135

 

[Laspaz]

I have taken the pressure gauge off my other compressor (I know it's good) and that is now working on this "new" compressor. I am looking into the water/grease gun pressure test method. I will look into model engineering society's, but am quite isolated. Thanks again.

 

[normspanners]

The unloader control valve is the bit sticking out the right hand side with the two pipes to and from it, the top adjuster on it is the pressure adjust so back that off and it cuts off earlier, then inside are shims to adjust the differential pressure the two unloader valves have diaphragms in them and convert air pressure to mechanical force and hold the valves open to stop the compressor pumping, when the control valve opens, they adjust by slackening off the lock nut and screwing the valve in till it is just clear of the inlet valve. it all is usually a very reliable way of controlling the pump, much better than modern designs where the pump is still being pumping and forcing air out of the unloader valve at pressure.
When pumping up my air pig with either my electric or petrol ones I hold the control valve down for a short time to get a little more pressure in as I only have a very small U reservoir on my two.

 

[Laspaz]

Awesome, thanks for that info! It's going to be very helpful for when I run her.

Can anyone ID the leftmost fitting on the 5th picture? The one on the right is a shut off, and the middle one is a water trap. The on on the left makes a bit of a click when I wind it in.

In other good news the tank has passed it's hydrostatic test of 1600kpa for 1 hour. I tried using water in a couple of my grease guns but had no luck getting above 50psi without the zerk not taking more. So I went to grease and that worked much better, other than the big clean up now.

I have pressure washed the unit down, and will get some updated photos once it dries off.

 

[normspanners]

Those old pumps just keep on pumping, they are made from decent material and are 20 times better than any of the so called 'good' new style pumps, that are a throw away item, the head gaskets are made from paper the metal is crap there is no positive oiling etc etc .

The pressure gauge jumps around... is that because I have only run it for a minute and it's turbulant in the tank, or should I replace the gauge?

you can get gylserol filled 'damped' gauges they are a little more expensive but stop the pulses.

 

[Laspaz]

I cleaned up the carb and replaced the fuel tap and line and she's running well now. Next step was to check the valves, the relief valve got a clean up and looks like ti should work ok, but I am having trouble with the governor valve. It didn't seem to do anything so I took it apart and this is what I have:

Looks like I am missing shims and a ball bearing? Hmmm

 

[normspanners]

yes there should be a ball bearing in there the shims adjust the differential pressure IE the pressure it cuts back in again IIRC removing shims reduces the differential
look here http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/broomwade-compressor.39444/page-5

 

[Laspaz]

Thanks for the link. I made up some copper spacers, but still can not get the unloader control valve working properly.

In the link above, at post #86, the poster suggests Bendix D-2 as a possible replacement. Am I right in thinking the line in would connect to the "reservoir port" and the line out to the unloaders would connect to the "unloader port"? Would I just leave the exhaust port open?

Thanks very much for all the help.

 

[normspanners]

I would think so because the air in the unloader diaphragms has to be released to free air quickly otherwise the unloader would stay holding the inlet valve open, until the pressure decayed and you would not get the snap open and snap closed.
You have to have the correct sized balls------- so to speak --- in that valve, I do have a spare one somewhere I may have a look this weekend and strip it if that would help.
I have been thinking about this and I am not entirely sure I have given you the correct info, something is nagging me ( besides the wife !!) that I have it back to front and the shims adjust the cut out pressure
BTW weird that the other guy from the link was from NZ too. Do you have the exclusive rights to old broom wades over there or should i say ------under there .

 

[Laspaz]

The trouble is everything is so expensive here in NZ, so we don't throw anything away.

I matched the correct size ball bearing as shown in the other thread, and do agree that it just provides a surface for the shaft/pin to pivot on. It also must increase the length, so maybe that's why ball bearing = shims, and no ball bearing = no shims?

I think my spring might be binding too.

I think I might just go with a D-2 governor until I can find another original one at some stage.

 

[normspanners]

found this seems cheap enough
https://www.grainger.com/product/3X818?avad=55097_dbdcb6ff

http://www.ebay.com/itm/P25G-F-Valve-Pilot-/390937012112

 

[normspanners]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CDI-CONT...374299?hash=item3ac65220db:g:Kd0AAOSw9mFWJk0C
worth the postage?????