Old surface grinder (help identify)

[caveman]

Hi guys

i've purchased a old surface grinder from the bay as a project,
It has no makers plates on it just a model number plate and casting marks im trying to identify the model to track down the tooling used to remove the wheel as it has a very odd way of removing the stone.
As usual any help gratefully appreciated. Caveman

 

[roofman]

i was watching that...the final price was a bargin

 

[Maker]

I saw a few of these on eBay, what are they used for?

 

[roofman]

I saw a few of these on eBay, what are they used for?

super super acuracy that a milling maching cant achieve...talking of, where is it then i have,nt slept all night???

 

[caveman]

I'm based in coventry do u know what the name of it is?

 

[roofman]

I'm based in coventry do u know what the name of it is?

Iff ime honest mate i dont...have you asked the seller of its history,maybe you can back track and find out.

 

[caveman]

Iff ime honest mate i dont...have you asked the seller of its history,maybe you can back track and find out.

No joy there.

 

[MattF]

Any more photo's of the bit in question? Seems like that's just a standard nut on the end of the shaft?

 

[caveman]

Any more photo's of the bit in question? Seems like that's just a standard nut on the end of the shaft?

in the photo with the drill bit in, on the shaft you can just make out a thread the nut with the drill bit in has holes spaced all around it and so does the rest of them you have to tighten all these down to remove the reversed nut that holds the stone on.

 

[caveman]

I have found a similar one on practical machinist and its called a superior v type but is slightly different to mine as it has a third handle for the z axis,but can find nothing on google for it.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/antique-machinery-history/very-old-surface-grinder-181712/

 

[MattF]

So is it the spanner needed for those collars which you're wondering about, (that'll likely be a C spanner you want), else the fact that they need loosening which is what you're wondering about? Looks like if you're needing to loosen those, all you're doing is taking pressure off the wheel which then makes the nut easier to remove. That's just hypothesising from the photo's though.

 

[caveman]

pretty much on the money.i think it should of had a plate covering the cam and collars i would like to dowload a manual for it and find out exactly what model it is.
it has a 19mm shaft and 31.7mm bras bush over it to accept the stone so i am off to the bay to find some stones.

 

[Wendelspanswick]

pretty much on the money.i think it should of had a plate covering the cam and collars i would like to dowload a manual for it and find out exactly what model it is.
it has a 19mm shaft and 31.7mm bras bush over it to accept the stone so i am off to the bay to find some stones.

As its an old imperial machine its going to be 3/4" and 1 1/4" for the shaft and bush size.

 

[octo0072000]

the brass plate with WO i think means War Office machine no 11490 so originally procured for militery use

 

[Flapdisk]

Knowing nothing about this sort of thing I have a question, how come, if say you were re surfacing a car cylinder head, it doesn't become slightly sloped as the grinding wheel goes from one side to the other due to the wheel wearing down slightly as it's grinding?

 

[Wedg1e]

Knowing nothing about this sort of thing I have a question, how come, if say you were re surfacing a car cylinder head, it doesn't become slightly sloped as the grinding wheel goes from one side to the other due to the wheel wearing down slightly as it's grinding?

Well there's flat and then there's flat
Maybe it averages out...

 

[Wedg1e]

So is it the spanner needed for those collars which you're wondering about, (that'll likely be a C spanner you want), else the fact that they need loosening which is what you're wondering about? Looks like if you're needing to loosen those, all you're doing is taking pressure off the wheel which then makes the nut easier to remove. That's just hypothesising from the photo's though.

I wonder if the two locking collars just set up preload on taper roller bearings at the wheel end of the shaft... although the drip-feed oilers might suggest plain bearings. Hmmm.

 

[Bill Edwards]

Knowing nothing about this sort of thing I have a question, how come, if say you were re surfacing a car cylinder head, it doesn't become slightly sloped as the grinding wheel goes from one side to the other due to the wheel wearing down slightly as it's grinding?

Simple.
Most of the cutting will be done by the leading edge of the wheel - the work moves across and most of the wear will be on a certain side of the wheel, with the remainder having very little to do so won't wear much,
But more importantly, when you've ground off 99% of the material you dress the wheel and then take the final cut. For this final cut you will be taking such a small amount off combined with starting with a perfect wheel that you really can't measure or notice any imperfections!


As an aside, I don't think many people would use a surface grinder for a cylinder head, you don't want the finish to be too fine. A cutter on a milling machine is better suited, you need some roughness to bite into the gasket and form a seal.

 

[DanielW]

Its a superior type "V" ? Er i think beacon tools made it?

 

[DanielW]

I saw a few of these on eBay, what are they used for?

Good for taking a few thou of a cylinder head or basically grinding metal flat as die.