richie00boy
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That would be fine. Epoxy primer would be better, but it is more hazardous and you need a good mask.
- Thread starter TazN
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Hi Steve, I'm just over by Stowmarket. I'd be more than happy too come over your way and have a chat if your free at some time. Righto will keep an eye on the moisture front for the primer. So do I take it, it would be better to get the basecoat down asap after the primer has dried?
Richie, I will still be buying the best mask I can afford, are there any recommendations? I was looking at a half face one by Gerson, the 9000 series I think it was called. Then find something to cover the eyes that I can still wear glasses under. Was also given a tip to use vaselin on the exposed parts of the face to stop the paint getting onto the skin and turning you the colour your spraying...
Richie, I will still be buying the best mask I can afford, are there any recommendations? I was looking at a half face one by Gerson, the 9000 series I think it was called. Then find something to cover the eyes that I can still wear glasses under. Was also given a tip to use vaselin on the exposed parts of the face to stop the paint getting onto the skin and turning you the colour your spraying...
richie00boy
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That Gerson mask is good. I have a Moldex 8000 series half mask with ABEK rated filters which is also good. I don't wear glasses so use swimming goggles to protect my eyes.
You can get full face masks, maybe this could be an option if you want to protect your eyes and wear glasses.
http://www.farmchem.co.uk/moldex-full-face-masks-225-c.asp
You may also have success using normal chunky cheap safety goggles over your glasses with a half mask.
You can get full face masks, maybe this could be an option if you want to protect your eyes and wear glasses.
http://www.farmchem.co.uk/moldex-full-face-masks-225-c.asp
You may also have success using normal chunky cheap safety goggles over your glasses with a half mask.
You can get uv and oil resistant 1k clear coats now days.
I fully accept 2k products are very hard wearing but the thing is how come there are many old cars which the paint has lasted many decades without it? There are cars which have never seen paint which were built in the 1920's - 1930's and a lot of value on them is that they have never seen new paint. I accept they have had an easy life on the really old cars that have never seen new paint but never the less they still have the paint on and look good.
Which makes you think on this too surely the latest tech on the 1K is better compared to what they were using in the 1950, 1960, 1970's? The main problem with those cars anyway wasn't how bad the paint looked after 5 years but the fact of poor rust protection and the design of the car induced rusting.
Just some thoughts.
I fully accept 2k products are very hard wearing but the thing is how come there are many old cars which the paint has lasted many decades without it? There are cars which have never seen paint which were built in the 1920's - 1930's and a lot of value on them is that they have never seen new paint. I accept they have had an easy life on the really old cars that have never seen new paint but never the less they still have the paint on and look good.
Which makes you think on this too surely the latest tech on the 1K is better compared to what they were using in the 1950, 1960, 1970's? The main problem with those cars anyway wasn't how bad the paint looked after 5 years but the fact of poor rust protection and the design of the car induced rusting.
Just some thoughts.
steveo3002
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old paint and primers was high in lead content , half the problem now is everything has to be so eco friendly so all the good stuff is taken out
makes no odds really , we cant go back in time and use whatever they had in the 1920s
makes no odds really , we cant go back in time and use whatever they had in the 1920s
steveo3002
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yes soon as , but in reality its gona need 24-48 hours for the primer to sit and dry then you need to sand it all smooth , in a ideal world would be in a warm dry workshop , but at least try and keep it out of the rain etc as it will just soak up damp from the atmosphere
ajlelectronics
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Just use the epoxy primer. Then you can put anything you like on it without issue.
steveo3002
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wont stop further products taking on moisture though
ajlelectronics
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True enough, however, it will stop the moisture being absorbed before the topcoat goes on. Also, it can be left for a reasonable amount of time before topcoating, unlike conventional primers. It is this absorbtion that leads to microblistering the first time the sun comes out. I believe also that the epoxy primer forms a waterproof barrier, so the fibreglass remains protected, especially if both sides of the panel are painted.
I have a small amount of fibreglass experience due to being a Reliant man. ;-)
I have a small amount of fibreglass experience due to being a Reliant man. ;-)
Righto, ajl I think you've convinced me to go for an epoxy primer. I've done some reading of various ones and they sound ideal for fiberglass and helping to prevent moisture getting through and causing problems in the top coat.
Are there any particularly good ones to look at?
I have had a look through the tech sheets for Jotun's penguard, it's a HB 2 part epoxy - I cannot see any mention of isocyanates in the health sheets for either part.
I've also looked at some of the House of Kolor epoxy primers and one by rustbuster, the custom epoxy 421.
Many thanks for the help everyone, I very much doubt I'd be able to get my head around some of this without this guidance!
Are there any particularly good ones to look at?
I have had a look through the tech sheets for Jotun's penguard, it's a HB 2 part epoxy - I cannot see any mention of isocyanates in the health sheets for either part.
I've also looked at some of the House of Kolor epoxy primers and one by rustbuster, the custom epoxy 421.
Many thanks for the help everyone, I very much doubt I'd be able to get my head around some of this without this guidance!
ajlelectronics
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I use Jotun 87 but I believe that others recommend Lechler products. I THINK that Rustbuster is rebranded Jotun.
steveo3002
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i agree that jotun does appear to be very similar to the rust buster , just cheaper to buy
richie00boy
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Where are you seeing the Lechler epoxy with isocyanates in? I'm sure it's a mistake, it's a different technology to epoxy.
Richie I think you are correct here, I might have got mixed up with something else I was looking at. I found the hardeners msds on a new zealand suppliers site here.
I'm not sure if I'll need a high build primer over the epoxy as well (the panels are pretty decent so hopefully not) but the lechler 2k HB primer looks suitable hardener msds here.
Will be ordering a spare bootlid tonight so that I have a spare panel to test the methods/products without potentially ruining a panel that is needed.
I'm not sure if I'll need a high build primer over the epoxy as well (the panels are pretty decent so hopefully not) but the lechler 2k HB primer looks suitable hardener msds here.
Will be ordering a spare bootlid tonight so that I have a spare panel to test the methods/products without potentially ruining a panel that is needed.
richie00boy
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You seem to want to avoid isocyanate products, but that high build primer is an iso system? Spraying primer doesn't create as big a cloud as topcoats, so you would probably be OK with the mask you have chosen.
To be honest epoxy is pretty bad too. Just take precautions and either technology should be fine.
To be honest epoxy is pretty bad too. Just take precautions and either technology should be fine.
This is why I should learn to double read things. It does have isocyanate so will give it a miss if I can. I have ordered a spare panel to test the products and methods out before stripping down the car.
Once again thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread, it's been most informative!
Once again thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread, it's been most informative!
Well I don't like to leave a thread open ended. I had 2 weeks holiday to use or loose so today was the last of those 2 weeks. Can you guess what I've spent it doing?
Prep, prep and when I got bored and didn't think I could hurt anymore I did some more prep. Then used the epoxy primer (BIG thank you on that it's fantastic stuff) basecoat and cleared - project complete!
I have to say I'm genuinely happy with how the result has come out. The primer stuck like nobodies business and went on thick enough to sand flat and get ready for the colour. The basecoat was very nice to put down, I got a few runs which I was going to leave as it was just a test but thought I'd just be annoyed after all the prep that had gone into it so far. Sanded them back and re painted it this time without any problems! Then the clear went out as well, that has now dried and is in the back room with a window open to cure for a few days before I handle it too much. The u-pol 1k clear was a dream to spray, it is nearly void of any orange peel - on my first time spraying.
Anyway these threads are useless without pics so here are 2. One before clear so nice even satin finish all over and then with the fresh clear on.
Prep, prep and when I got bored and didn't think I could hurt anymore I did some more prep. Then used the epoxy primer (BIG thank you on that it's fantastic stuff) basecoat and cleared - project complete!
I have to say I'm genuinely happy with how the result has come out. The primer stuck like nobodies business and went on thick enough to sand flat and get ready for the colour. The basecoat was very nice to put down, I got a few runs which I was going to leave as it was just a test but thought I'd just be annoyed after all the prep that had gone into it so far. Sanded them back and re painted it this time without any problems! Then the clear went out as well, that has now dried and is in the back room with a window open to cure for a few days before I handle it too much. The u-pol 1k clear was a dream to spray, it is nearly void of any orange peel - on my first time spraying.
Anyway these threads are useless without pics so here are 2. One before clear so nice even satin finish all over and then with the fresh clear on.
richie00boy
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Looks good. Glad to see a nice result.
