richie00boy
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I've never welded before but seen my dad do loads of gas and arc. Would this inverter welder be any good for underside patches on cars? And making things from 1 inch square tubing?
- Thread starter Bantam071
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angellonewolf
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^^^^
No stick is very/near impossible for welding cars even experienced people could only just do it and would probably not look that great
Mig is what you need Clark's machines are good and on the hobbie side of things and not to expensive but a full set up around 300/400 aprox or keep an eye out on the for sale posts
No stick is very/near impossible for welding cars even experienced people could only just do it and would probably not look that great
Mig is what you need Clark's machines are good and on the hobbie side of things and not to expensive but a full set up around 300/400 aprox or keep an eye out on the for sale posts
David Rogers
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David Rogers
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That bloke is amazing. Do you think he is doing double denim? It looks like he is using a 4mm rod
That bloke is amazing. Do you think he is doing double denim? It looks like he is using a 4mm rod and striking an arc from 2" away onto aluminium tubing. Obviously making a lazy susan with handlebars and brakes. Ideal for slowing down your chow mein if it is spinning to fast.
ronan
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That would good, thanks
Errr, I'm after the tray as per my pic.
I was in the shop today and they had an empty box. I asked an assisitant where the contents were and he couldn't find it. He said if it was found he would put it aside. I'll be there later in the week, so if they have it i'll get it.
Bill Edwards
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They can weld thicker than a small MIG (slowly, using multiple passes) without risking a cold weld.
They'll tolerate dirt, rust and paint far better when it's not practical to clean everything properly.
Plus you can weld almost anything with them by just changing the rods and not having a fortune tied up in specialist wire. For example, you have not only ordinary and lo hydrogen rods but also cellulose (6011), stainless/dissimilar and rods for cast iron available.
However, where this particular unit falls down is being only 80 amps. I expect it'll be very, very small and lightweight but a 150a unit would be worth so much more. Although 80 amps is enough to weld anything a little higher gets you up to 3.2mm rods which saves time. This unit looks great but only for hobby people who'll only really deal with thin metal or who'd have enough time to build up layers if they did meet something thick one day.
cumbriasteve
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HughF
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My dad picked one up yesterday, wants a little scratch start tig rig for some stainless stuff he wants to do again. I'll do a test/teardown and report. Initial inspection through the ventilation covers looks like a good quality build.
cumbriasteve
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123hotchef
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is scratch tig the same as lift tig?
HughF
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Nope
HughF
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I did some scratch start with it, it works fine. Dad and I were playing about with one of our many HF boxes but he's decided to go scratch start for the jobs he wants. Torch is on order, I imagine he'll have a go with it next week.
Richard.
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They are both contact ignition processes but quite different in how you make that contact.
The names are very accurate in the respect lift you gently touch the tungsten vertically to the work and lift off on some machines it's not permanently live and you operate a switch to start up. It can on more advanced units be exactly the same as HF start but with a light touch down.
Scratch more crude. Always live and if you treat it the same by touching down you'll find the tungsten sticks, snaps the point off and it's a problem. You need to flick it in. A light sharp flick across your work piece will see the arc go . To extinguish it you quickly snap out. This is a side ways flick and done properly it's a fast motion. If you do it slow you extend the arc length and let contaminants in. When you've snapped out you much quickly go back on to post flow. Don't retouch mind..... it's still live.
Once you have scratch mastered you find the better way to start up is not on the job but flick it off the filler low Down that's in contact with the job. This is a nicer way to avoid tungsten inclusion as you will always get some on a contact ignited process. Lift tig on sophisticated machines operated by the button don't require you to snap out as the release of the button will extinguish the arc.
Just in case anyone missed these last time and fancies one, they're back in store on the 6th of May.
https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/Non-Food-Offers.htm?articleId=12826
Seems to similar to the other ones, previous model PISG 80A1, now model PISG 80A2. Lets hope they didn't decide to 'upgrade' the second revision and actually make it worse
https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/Non-Food-Offers.htm?articleId=12826
Seems to similar to the other ones, previous model PISG 80A1, now model PISG 80A2. Lets hope they didn't decide to 'upgrade' the second revision and actually make it worse
