Plumbers putty on soil pipe

[Danez]

oreyt apolgoies for yet another plumbing question

basically had a leak in my original waste pipe which came from the bath

the part with the white bend isn’t an issue and i can easily sort but it’s the bend where it connects to the main soil pipe/vent which is the ballache.

i managed to remove it but i then noticed a crack in the 110mm soil pipe itself

Now i’m not sure if that’s been there for a while or i caused that in removing the old bend via percussive persuasion

either way replace that will be a massive ballache

so to my question

would plumbers putty be ok to sort that crack out? something along these lines

Flomasta Plumbers Putty 750g - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Ready-mixed and permanently flexible non-setting sealant for sanitary joints. Suitable for downpipes, guttering, sinks and vanity units. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

cheers

 

[Danez]

Also once this crack has been dealt with i’ll still want to remove that bend as that’s where the original leak is

it’s stuck fast so not sure how i could remove it while being able to replace it with a new bend in the same place

was thinking of replacing it with this if i can get the old one off

McAlpine Mechanical Pipe Boss Connector Black 40mm - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Connects to 110mm soil pipe and will accept waste water or condensate discharge via a 40mm waste pipe. Simply drill a 57mm hole in the soil pipe and attach the connector. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

edit: or would i be better off removing the old 40mm bit of pipe from the connector and solvent welding some new pipe in there and surrounding it with the putty?

 

[Kram]

Im not sure how you replace a joint on a solvent weld bend as its essentially now one peice. Im not a plumber...

Solvent weld glue would likely fix the crack. Theres also a bitumen tape for repairing soil pipes, just incase it fails. I wouldnt trust sealant putty as its not in a joint, theres nothing to hold it in the crack.

If you have any blockage, soil pipes can fill up under pressure. You dont want that to burst and flood poo everywhere!

 

[gaz1]

your just about to find out why i hate solvent fittings

I dont think you will seal it and certainly not with plumbers putty

even with tape

Denso 75mm Tape 8101103 | at Zoro

Denso - 75mm Tape available at Zoro.co.uk - UK's Leading Supplier of DIY Tools and Supplies'

www.zoro.co.uk

it would still leak but yeah you could seal for a while just wait till you get that stuff on your hands

the alternative is layering with solvent glue though i must admit id rather use grp instead

of coarse grp would seal it if it was thickened up by a former

or its cut out buy fittings and replace so pick your punishment

 

[Danez]

Im not sure how you replace a joint on a solvent weld bend as its essentially now one peice. Im not a plumber...

Solvent weld glue would likely fix the crack. Theres also a bitumen tape for repairing soil pipes, just incase it fails. I wouldnt trust sealant putty as its not in a joint, theres nothing to hold it in the crack.

If you have any blockage, soil pipes can fill up under pressure. You dont want that to burst and flood poo everywhere!

good point there at the end!

i’ve had a change of plan tbh

cut into the horizontal 110mm pipe coming from the toilet and insert a boss with a t for the bath and sink waste

then i’m not using that bend with the crack at all then and can still seal it as best i can with silicone or putty or solvent weld as you say

surely that’d suffice!

 

[Danez]

your just about to find out why i hate solvent fittings

I dont think you will seal it and certainly not with plumbers putty

even with tape

Denso 75mm Tape 8101103 | at Zoro

Denso - 75mm Tape available at Zoro.co.uk - UK's Leading Supplier of DIY Tools and Supplies'

www.zoro.co.uk

it would still leak but yeah you could seal for a while just wait till you get that stuff on your hands

the alternative is layering with solvent glue though i must admit id rather use grp instead

of coarse grp would seal it if it was thickened up by a former

or its cut out buy fittings and replace so pick your punishment

i was thinking of not even using that joint anymore and cutting a boss into the horizontal 110mm waste from the toilet. surely if i don’t use that bit anymore and seal it the best way i can it would suffice?

the ultimate punishment would in fact be removing it!

 

[gaz1]

best way is to measure

beaware theres different sizes of soil pipe so measure it correctly

buy another fittings

2 straight joints, 1 slip joint and 1 tee and buy a boss strap with insert 1 1/4" or 1 1/2"

you will need some soil pipe as well

or you replace the run to the toilet if a short run saves buying a straight fitting

the one thing you will have fun with is cutting that fittings off


i dont know whats above via the black connection so cant advise correctley as cant see properly so would need a wider photo of the area in height and width

 

[Danez]

best way is to measure

beaware theres different sizes of soil pipe so measure it correctly

buy another fittings

2 straight joints, 1 slip joint and 1 tee and buy a boss strap with insert 1 1/4" or 1 1/2"

you will need some soil pipe as well

or you replace the run to the toilet if a short run saves buying a straight fitting

the one thing you will have fun with is cutting that fittings off


i dont know whats above via the black connection so cant advise correctley as cant see properly so would need a wider photo of the area in height and width

i think the best bet would be to cut into the toilet waste with a boss fitting for the sink and the bath waste to connect to and seal off the **** corner joint which started all this hassle

the black bend goes to the outside and is in place via mortar (moved the vent from an internal one to an external)

 

[gaz1]

then i’m not using that bend with the crack at all then and can still seal it as best i can with silicone or putty or solvent weld as you say

surely that’d suffice!

i was thinking of not even using that joint anymore and cutting a boss into the horizontal 110mm waste from the toilet. surely if i don’t use that bit anymore and seal it the best way i can it would suffice?

the ultimate punishment would in fact be removing it!

well if you think you know better by all means do what you think is best

but as a warning the flow from the toilet is high enough to push or shove against something

you have enough flow hitting at that t point square on

 

[dobbslc]

It looks like at least 2 other holes in the grey pipe just below the black one, one siliconed up and another cracked hole on the right?
Clean out the crap in the floor to see what you're dealing with first. Can you reach the pipe from below the bathroom? If you can then cut the whole lot out and start again.

 

[Kram]

Is that at ground level or celing level?

The tape, (edit, the stuff gaz1 linked above) dont know the proper name or where to buy it but, its shown here 12 mins in and how to use it.

 

[Danez]

well if you think you know better by all means do what you think is best

but as a warning the flow from the toilet is high enough to push or shove against something

you have enough flow hitting at that t point square on

just wanted to weigh up my best options which don’t involve removing the entire 110mm joint which would be the best/proper way to deal with it but it’s just a big job i’d like to avoid if possible

It looks like at least 2 other holes in the grey pipe just below the black one, one siliconed up and another cracked hole on the right?
Clean out the crap in the floor to see what you're dealing with first. Can you reach the pipe from below the bathroom? If you can then cut the whole lot out and start again.

annoyingly access isn’t great, directly below that is the kitchen and the soil pipe is in-between the wall and the boiler

and yeah no idea what that siliconed hole is all about will need to sort that out too

 

[Danez]

Is that at ground level or celing level?

The tape, (edit, the stuff gaz1 linked above) dont know the proper name or where to buy it but, its shown here 12 mins in and how to use it.

ceiling level

looks like proper good stuff that does
although the where the crack is it could be awakened to wrap tape around? i was considering solvent cement after cleaning it up

 

[Kram]

If you can get a saw under the horizontal pipe and chop it off.. then you should have enough access to clean it up and slide a new solvent weld T peice on. Doesnt seem like a massive job but certainly not a pleasant one.
I imagine a decent plumber would have that done in an hour (if you can find one, plus charge a whole day for it).

 

[Danez]

If you can get a saw under the horizontal pipe and chop it off.. then you should have enough access to clean it up and slide a new solvent weld T peice on. Doesnt seem like a massive job but certainly not a pleasant one.
I imagine a decent plumber would have that done in an hour (if you can find one, plus charge a whole day for it).

that’d be a good shout it’s just a matter of removing that bend without further damaging the soil pipe as it’s solvent welded…

i could possibly carefully cut into the solvent socket length ways and try to pry it off

or leave it be and patch up the crack with two part epoxy or the plumbers solvent which ever would be better and then add some waste pipe with a stop end to the bend

 

[DAPPH]

Had a similar mess in my bro house , he'd attempted to make repair .& they didn't work so in his kitchen behind a new £26 K kitchen , the leak progressed across the floor & up stud walls . He tried to put a collar over the soil pipe but hadn't left enough plastic to get a good fit as well as screwing up the clip on waste water from the kitchen sink he'd used to old hardened moulded to shape sealing ring / washer which should have been replaced . The main waste down pipe also carried the bathroom and toilets waste , the pipe from the kitchen sink poked deep into the down pipe making a great place to make blockages on a regular basis . His 40 yr old son also tried to stop the leaking with out success whilst making a lot of mess.
There are no easy cheap short term cuts to getting a decent job done .

I made a simple pair of calipers so I could get the right pipe diameters ...drew the pipe workout on paper and then planned what I was going to do . All the DIY stores tend to have their own size pipe & fittings which can make using them problematic . Knowing this & with several decades of hard bitter experience under my belt I went to a PlumbSure outlet with a shopping list .

I cut the lot out , properly & correctly replaced with the right size pipes and solvent weld them . Having numerous compression joints in several slightly different sizes was just asking for a disaster ..which my bro got .

Had to chip the screed out where the soil pipe went below the floor to get a neck of foul waste pipe to sleeve it with a rubber connector . If you have to sleeve any of the pipes chamfer both inside & outside edges and use a decent rubber sleeve & proper stainless steel jubilee clips & some lube to ease any sleeving on . In fact it's always wise to carefully chamfer all pipe work on both edge to prevent any little bits of plastic hooking up / picking up long hair or fibres. Be sure that the pipes you use are the correct size and if solvent welding that they are all the right sort of solvent weldable plastic . Dry fit and mark the depth of the fit before gluing them up .

Leave the glued joints about 10 min to cure

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

It's possible with a multitool and a steady hand to cut through the wider diameter flange and remove the joint.

I've had to do it on occasion when fitting poking just through kitchen unit. not doing it would require removing a kitchen unit

 

[DAPPH]

It's possible with a multitool and a steady hand to cut through the wider diameter flange and remove the joint.

I've had to do it on occasion when fitting poking just through kitchen unit. not doing it would require removing a kitchen unit

That reminded me of a time I used a multi tool to carefully cut to a scribed line on middle of a foul waste pipe collar , got a surprise when I found there was less than 3 mm of badly cut un chamfered pipe in the lower part of the collar no wonder things were leaking

Made a cut in some new pipe so it was split north to south and kept gently taking the cut out to make it a blade cut wider each time till the bit of pipe made a perfect slip in sleeve . Cleaned everything out with meths , let it dry and very careful chamfered all the cut faces , gave the vertical cut a generous coating of solvent weld & put a 2 inch wide ring of it round the insert and slipped it in place to give me three inch stub above the joint . Then when it had cured & I'd had a disinfectant wash & sandwiches I put it all back together .
It made me realise the value of pushing a pipe fully into a joint marking the depth with a sharpie & checking how deep it is in the joint .

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

That reminded me of a time I used a multi tool to carefully cut to a scribed line on middle of a foul waste pipe collar , got a surprise when I found there was less than 3 mm of badly cut un chamfered pipe in the lower part of the collar no wonder things were leaking

Made a cut in some new pipe so it was split north to south and kept gently taking the cut out to make it a blade cut wider each time till the bit of pipe made a perfect slip in sleeve . Cleaned everything out with meths , let it dry and very careful chamfered all the cut faces , gave the vertical cut a generous coating of solvent weld & put a 2 inch wide ring of it round the insert and slipped it in place to give me three inch stub above the joint . Then when it had cured & I'd had a disinfectant wash & sandwiches I put it all back together .
It made me realise the value of pushing a pipe fully into a joint marking & checking how deep it is in the joint .

I always mark pipes 150mm from the cut Gives me a reference to check depth

 

[angellonewolf]

had the same problem a few years ago most repairs will be just that a temp repair cut and replace