Plumbing advice

[chunkolini]

I will pop in tomorrow to two plumber suppliers and see what they have in stock.
Long term it has to be remove the pipe and replace it.
the wiring is of a similar quality. But lovely house, loads of space and in a nice spot and soo cheap.

 

[Mick - Ford Focus]

Will Milliput Be Okay/Set In Contact With Water - Brother Uses On Models - WW2 Tanks Etc.

M

 

[Johnseat]

I'd open up a jubilee clip and wrap it around using a small piece of rubber to seal.

 

[chunkolini]

No way of getting a screwdriver on a jubilee clip.
Mr Fuzzy that also looks the ticket. I will get photos of where the pipe runs, replacing it would be a comedy job!

 

[chunkolini]

Photos tomorrow of where it might go.

 

[Justme]

Can you not get at it further along?

Just put a bypass in.

2 x lead to mdpe adapters & some mdpe pipe.

 

[Rrunnach]

If it isn't a problem ie: going to flood your home, I would leave it. Then look at a final fix, solution. If you do decide to do a temp repair, make sure you have the correct spec solder. I know this as I have been where you are right now, easier fix, though. I sweated copper to lead, I then arranged to have the whole lot removed (didn't know it was there, was a main running under my kitchen concrete floor, to supply the house next door.

Living the dream in an 250+ listed building.............can be a nightmare at times!!

 

[hunter27]

If the soil pipe is plastic (it does looks a bit rough) and if all else fails you could cut out a section carefully, sort out the lead pipe and then replace the section cut out with 2 slip sockets http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-110mm-Black-Soil-Pipe-Slip-Coupling/p/435224
look here at around 3 minutes in

I would cut out a fair bit of the soil pipe so you can get access to the leak, cut it as straight as possible and reuse the pipe you cut out, well lubricated and with the edges chamfered.
Strictly speaking you are no longer allowed to solder lead potable water pipes as there is to much lead in the grade D solder . You may be able to bodge it with lead free but it is as runny as tap water, we had to use lead lock's to connect onto lead they are like a large compression fitting with a grab ring and an O ring inside.

It does look a pig of a job though.

Ps make sure no one uses the upstairs toilet if you do remove the soil pipe

Pete

 

[bump]

LS-X would be my choice. Sticks to everything and is approved for repairs by Diversey (SC Johnson industrial division) on their installs.

 

[Wendelspanswick]

This sounds like a job for...
Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure!
http://www.captaintolley.com

 

[chunkolini]

I will have a go with this stuff this evening or tomorrow morning http://www.screwfix.com/p/fernox-ls-x-leak-sealer-50ml/23614
Plan A, feed a bunch of cable ties up the back of the pipe, cut a strip of inner tube to go half way round the pipe, put a thick smear of the goop on the inner tube, roll it over the pipe and do the ties up. Tight.

 

[Cobbler]

If you can get cable ties around the pipe, what's stopping you opening a jubilee clip & getting it round? With that Fernox it would be as good as a permanent repair. I've used the Fernox as joint sealant & it's good stuff.

EDIT just seen, no access for a screwdriver, can you tighten it with a small spanner? There normally have a hex head as well.

 

[zx9]

I will have a go with this stuff this evening or tomorrow morning http://www.screwfix.com/p/fernox-ls-x-leak-sealer-50ml/23614
Plan A, feed a bunch of cable ties up the back of the pipe, cut a strip of inner tube to go half way round the pipe, put a thick smear of the goop on the inner tube, roll it over the pipe and do the ties up. Tight.

The Fernox ls is very good, I don't think you will need to bind the repair with rubber or any other material.
Try to keep moisture off the end of the tube of ls, it will set rock hard in the tube given half a chance.

 

[octo0072000]

can you get enough access to screw in a tek screw one of these using extensions and a socket set

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROOFING-T...hash=item41a16192cc:m:mIseJHO7MeaJMhYSzVChOpg

 

[MattF]

Fold a piece of lead sheet and just hammer it in there to cover the hole?

 

[rich r]

I'd be tempted to turn off the water, cut the pipe on the toilet side and where you can get to it on this side, then join with MDPE pipe and adapters. I've used epoxy putty on leaks, and it does work - but won't seal if there's any water pressure present.

We had the iron pipe supply pipe rust through just before the stoptap in the house. Ended up having to smash a hold in the kitchen floor so it could drain into the foundations whilst Yorkshire Water tried to find the stoptap off the mains - being an old farmhouse not in a town, he finally tracked it down (with radio signal injector and metal detector) to being buried a foot down in the verge about 100m from the house.

 

[chunkolini]

Sorted I used the Fernox stuff and sacrificed a bottle of Timotei, (handy having a regular female visitor) I used a strip of that coated in the sealant secured with two cable ties. Access bloody bear impossible. I also found how to use my stopcock which is handy. I may do a long term repair one day. Sure ......

Second shot shows where the pipe comes from.
The stop cock is in the street behind the shed.
Pipe runs across that terrace, then down to the second terrace which is about 10ft above the ground floor of the house, then down a couple of feet and appears out of a wall, below the bathroom by the soil pipe.
Photo taken from bathroom window.
The reckoning is there about four or even five stages of extension of the property. not a single straight or square surface.

 

[chunkolini]

Oh and thanks all for advice and contributions.
Aaaah another happy ending