Powered Feed addon to Tom Senior Light Vertical

Shox Dr · Jul 21, 2016

So this bunch of stuff is going to turn into a powered feed for the Light Vertical I rebuilt.

Unlike the Horizontal Machines, it's rare to find LV with powered feed. In any case all their machines were powered in one direction only, so not much use on the vertical any way.

I bought this a while back, but wasn't keen on the horizontal fitting, so never used it

A few basic measurements taken, scribed out to get an idea. Edge finder in. DRO from now on

Centre drilled comfirmed hole were in the right place :whistle:

The a rota broach cutter was used to open up for a brass bush, to hold the feedscrew and the bevel gear

Like butter

Boring head was then used to open up to size, loctite applied and a few taps home

More later....

Shox Dr · Jul 22, 2016

Got a bit more done last night. I'like these cutters, even used it to open it up :whistle:

Brass bush opened up to carry the end gear.

And a quick mock up

Needs cutting down and cleaning up. Then the dreaded wiring.... :scared:

Shox Dr · Jul 25, 2016

Cut down, and cleaned up, it's looking little better.

Next is the limit stops. The idea is to mount a rod to the saddle, via the adjustment nut, for sliding stops. Sensors can then be fitted to the New end mount.

Problem is Im not sure on what to use. Microswitch or Magic eye or....

Any suggestions

Robotstar5 · Jul 25, 2016

Shox Dr said:
Problem is Im not sure on what to use. Microswitch or Magic eye or....

Any suggestions

If it's acting as an "ultimate" limit to prevent mechanical damage then a micro switch/limit switch is safer than a non-contact type like proximity etc.

Pete. · Jul 25, 2016

I would agree and I would fit some kind of friction clutch too. Belville washers compressing a bronze friction disc would do it.

Robotstar5 · Jul 25, 2016

Looking at the bevel drive, could you replace the bolt with a shear pin?

Shox Dr · Jul 25, 2016

Robotstar5 said:
If it's acting as an "ultimate" limit to prevent mechanical damage then a micro switch/limit switch is safer than a non-contact type like proximity etc.

Thanks I must have been having a brian fart

I think the rotary roller, will work the best. With locking collars on the rod, they will act as work and limit stops.

Pete. said:
I would agree and I would fit some kind of friction clutch too. Belville washers compressing a bronze friction disc would do it.

Something else to ponder over, no space for it between motor and first gear, but very doable betwixt 2nd and feedscrew

Shox Dr · Jul 25, 2016

Robotstar5 said:
Looking at the bevel drive, could you replace the bolt with a shear pin?

Very cheap

It needs to disengauge as well for manual use and adjustment, I had thought of using a spring behind one of the gears, the tq could be set by spring tension, bit hit and miss though, and still requires a method of free wheeling; Making the motor slide to mesh the gears, is one way.

Pete. · Jul 26, 2016

A simple sliding dog clutch with ball and spring detent with a shear pin on the driven side would cover both bases, or even better a friction clutch with star wheel tension like you see on old south bend lathes would work as well. Wind off the star wheel for manual use, tighten it for power drive. If you did a good job with the star wheel you could set the drag so it slips when you hit a positive stop.

Shox Dr · Jul 28, 2016

So I'll made a couple of disicions :whistle:

(kicks swarf around with foot) :laughing:

I'm extending the bracket, to give me some more room underneath, to get a clutch in. It will also get round the encoder cable been sqashed at full travel :whistle:

. (In my defence, idea was to sell the machine as a manual).

So in with a block of aluminium, annnnnnnnnnd that's where the secound decision was made :whistle:

It such a nice machine I'm keeping it :clapping:

Shox Dr · Jul 28, 2016

I think it's fair to say that's on the money

Pete. · Jul 28, 2016

You could put a clutch direct on the motor shaft like this or similar.

Large green part is keyed and pinned to the shaft, yellow is bronze washer and blue is the bevel gear both free to turn. Thin green part is pressure plate keyed to shaft and sliding. Red is stack of belville washers as a spring and pink is the star wheel threaded into the end of the motor shaft.

Shox Dr · Jul 28, 2016

I like the design Pete....but :whistle:

I've been inside the reduction box, and I really don't fancy taking it apart to slot the shaft. I also might as welll make it the means to engage drive. You could use a yoke instead of the prenut. (Rubs chin)

Shox Dr · Jul 30, 2016

So the block gives me 60mm more to play with. I'm going to make/use a cone clutch, the block also allows for a greater dia clutch as well.

I've been racking my brains the last few days trying to remember where I've seen a cone clutch, and it's only in the 5mins I've remembered, and whats even better is they are adjustable and electric :clapping:

.

Oh they're used inside straping banders

Shox Dr · Dec 19, 2016

Its been a while. I couldn't make my mind up. Until I saw a jackshaft assembly for a hammer drill, they use a dog clutch to engage hammer.

So 10quid later and some heat to pull it all apart.

I only need these bits

The shaft is slightly worn, (I've ordered a peice of drill blank 7.2mm)

To do; Male refit to new d/blank along with a bigger bush, to fit inside the bevel gear.