Screwdriver
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The other thing to consider if you have room is a belt linishing machine. You can cut angle iron as rough as you like and linish it to perfection in a few seconds!
I am finding it hard to picture in my mind you got a photo or link to a video if what you mean mateThe other thing to consider if you have room is a belt linishing machine. You can cut angle iron as rough as you like and linish it to perfection in a few seconds!
Cheers mate. I have one but with a 2 inch belt. But its just a motor and pulley. I might try and adapt it so I can use both sizes of belt.One a these:
Mines an old six inch, had to spend some time restoring it but it's earned its space in the workshop ten times over. The bed can be set to any angle and you can use a guide in the slot for compound angles.
What it does best of all is to square up stock, quick and easy depending on grade of belt. I bought some 36 grit belts which will turn steel into dust in next to no time!
S.
This was my effort from 20odd years ago, usually sits behind my computer monitor doing sterling work as a business card holder nowadays. The bottom brass square had to fit all ways with no gaps, the whole thing was filed, scraped and chiselled from proper old scaly metal. The one saving grace was that during workshops there was no revision for exams so you could go out and get plastered.There will be others here somewhere that have also done apprentice or exam pieces like the one you describe. It was a standard piece of work, years ago
Hacksaw blades are just not what they were, too many cheap imports. I suspect that even "big names" import crappy blades to compete with cheapies. A lot of them blunt quickly and often just lose teeth. The 'Stanley' frame that I've had for 46 years now needs an extra washer to tension the blade and I am suspicious that the cheaply blades actually stretch over time.
Are we talking about the same type of band saw though?
I do the same and make up blades for my 10" hacksaw out of whats left drill the holes in the end with a reground masanroy bitI keep an eye on eBay for industrial length blades, buy them cheap and then cut and weld them to the correct size.
I bought 3 Starrett bimetallic blades for £15, each blade was 5m long so after modifying I ended up with 9 blades of the correct length for less than £1.70 each.
. I would say you must of bought a real duff one to call it "DIY". Those 6x4's are generally good tools apart from the stands. Mine has been through some steel faultlessly. Angles are certainly as good as a chop saw will achieveJust a cheapie Northern Tools bandsaw, bought for one off job, which it did do ok, albeit taking a long time. Main advantage of a proper cold saw is angles can be cut accurately, time after time, but even used ones are generally a lot more money than DIY type bandsaws.
No I saw someone mention a band saw and flat plate and wondered if they meant an upright/vertical bandsaw.Just a cheapie Northern Tools bandsaw, bought for one off job, which it did do ok, albeit taking a long time. Main advantage of a proper cold saw is angles can be cut accurately, time after time, but even used ones are generally a lot more money than DIY type bandsaws.
My personal preference is the mechanical hacksaw (if I had one), but AG does for larger stuff and simply manual hacksaw for small.So as the title says.
What is your preferred method for cutting box and angle iron.
I've used a mates makita cut off saw and apart from it being easy to use and the speed of the cut the accuracy wasn't brilliant and the finish was bad with lots of burring...
Would an electric hack saw or band saw be better for the job?
Strange I had powered hacksaw and found it ok but I would much prefer a bandsaw first then cold saw and power hacksaw if I did not have either of the others.My personal preference is the mechanical hacksaw (if I had one), but AG does for larger stuff and simply manual hacksaw for small.
. I would say you must of bought a real duff one to call it "DIY". Those 6x4's are generally good tools apart from the stands. Mine has been through some steel faultlessly. Angles are certainly as good as a chop saw will achieve
No I saw someone mention a band saw and flat plate and wondered if they meant an upright/vertical bandsaw.
That's the down side to my horizontal bs it takes up space. More so now it's sat in a large tray on a beefy stand. It's never gonna be the quickest of tools but God it cuts well. I love the fact when it's slowly cutting away I can leave it and hear myself think.My old Eisele cold saw cost £100, and does all I ever need in the way of sawing tubes and angle. I can trust it to cut angles perfectly, and while its tatty looking, its really well made. Best thing about it though is it takes up a lot less space than a 6x4, which is a good thing as it doesnt get used that often.
I'm now seriously thinking about one of these as I've discovered the weight and shipping cost of a power hacksaw is beyond reach.That's the down side to my horizontal bs it takes up space. More so now it's sat in a large tray on a beefy stand. It's never gonna be the quickest of tools but God it cuts well. I love the fact when it's slowly cutting away I can leave it and hear myself think.
I like them a lot and they suit the type of work I use it for. It's not the fastest way of chopping metal and they need a little time spent on them to get them set up.once set up they are very accurate and never need touching again. They are solid machines but with one weak point. The worm drive and gear needs checking every now and then that it is well lubed up with gear oil. With the right mods they are transformed from a decent tool to an excellent tool. Mine was free but in a bad way when I got it and took a while to get her up and running. Link to thread http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/freebee-in-need-of-tlc.55416/ if you wanna see about some real simple upgrades for them.I'm now seriously thinking about one of these as I've discovered the weight and shipping cost of a power hacksaw is beyond reach.
I like them a lot and they suit the type of work I use it for. It's not the fastest way of chopping metal and they need a little time spent on them to get them set up.once set up they are very accurate and never need touching again. They are solid machines but with one weak point. The worm drive and gear needs checking every now and then that it is well lubed up with gear oil. With the right mods they are transformed from a decent tool to an excellent tool. Mine was free but in a bad way when I got it and took a while to get her up and running. Link to thread http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/freebee-in-need-of-tlc.55416/ if you wanna see about some real simple upgrades for them.
Well I don't know how well detailed you read the thread. It is a monarch and very old but the bow is an old seally bow I swapped all the monarch parts over and fitted them on the seally bow as they were much much better. I only swapped the bow because the worm drive was worn on the monarch. It's a great saw still going strong. I've cut a lot of metal on it now. Love it.Good read, thanks. From what I gather, yours is a Monarch? So, def worthwhile getting an older one and rebuilding, rather than a cheapy one now.