Bit of a weird position for the dings, effectively on the side of the bend, not underneath or on top where they normally are. Something is possibly out of alignment or there's a sharp edge at the start of the curved former? The Rigid one you've bought looks much better, I'm sure you'll be fine with that.
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graffian
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I made oil lines from it, 5/16" Kunifer that is.
I bend using a £6 bender from ebay, same as the one in your pic.
What are the Us like on the bender? My cheapo bendover was in
pretty bad shape and put dents in the sides of the tube, a few
minutes with a rats **** and it does a tidy job.
Lookin at my bender and yours, yours looks pretty posh and well finished!
I used a rigid bender to bend nitrous lines for someones engine, using stainless tube, it was a completely different
toy to the cheapo but it had cost over a hundred quid in the 1990s.
I bend using a £6 bender from ebay, same as the one in your pic.
What are the Us like on the bender? My cheapo bendover was in
pretty bad shape and put dents in the sides of the tube, a few
minutes with a rats **** and it does a tidy job.
Lookin at my bender and yours, yours looks pretty posh and well finished!
I used a rigid bender to bend nitrous lines for someones engine, using stainless tube, it was a completely different
toy to the cheapo but it had cost over a hundred quid in the 1990s.
dan.taylor.1
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JOEPRO
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Thanks for that! Looks good.
I have the Ridgid ordered anyway but do you mean you did something to improve your cheap bender?
And on another note how did you form that flare in the photo!
I could do with something similar. I do have a flaring tool to put a bubble on this 8mm pipe which I need in engine bay for bolted fuel pipe fittings. But at hose end under car your type of flare would be ideal.
8ob
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You sir are a lucky man, I have a Preston ratchet bender you can have. got that Rothenberger set now so this one is not needed, dont have any other dies though.
graffian
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The flare was made with the cobbled together thing in the picture.
It could do with some alteration to the dies, but it worked and I have flared
all the oil pipes I made from Kunifer&copper with it.
I used a Parker Rigid to make stainless nitrous pipework, it is a much better
tool than the cheap thing but that was no surprise.
The cheapy dies were nothing like round[OK half round] I did have visions of
running a ball nosed mill around them, But a few minutes with a round file and
they work.
All you need to do is knock the lumps off, mine still has low spots[black painted bits]
but as you can see it works.
It could do with some alteration to the dies, but it worked and I have flared
all the oil pipes I made from Kunifer&copper with it.
I used a Parker Rigid to make stainless nitrous pipework, it is a much better
tool than the cheap thing but that was no surprise.
The cheapy dies were nothing like round[OK half round] I did have visions of
running a ball nosed mill around them, But a few minutes with a round file and
they work.
All you need to do is knock the lumps off, mine still has low spots[black painted bits]
but as you can see it works.
dan.taylor.1
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RaceDiagnostics
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How bad are the original lines, I just stripped and painted mine. Only needed to replace a small section at the end that was badly rusted.
JOEPRO
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They are mostly OK except for a few of the most exposed areas. Which do have active surface rust.
The thing is I am fully restoring the car. 100s of hours of underbody rust repairs etc and thousands in parts. So I'm not going to skip over the fuel lines now is the time. I want that the underbody of this car is good for 20+ years over again now with little to no maintenance.
I have another w140 S500 coupe which has been garaged indoors for a couple of years. I started it up a couple of weeks ago and it flooded a couple gallons of petrol on the floor inside a minute or two. One of the steel fuel lines ruptured underneath. So it'll be next to get new Kunifer lines when I get to it!
Didn't do any damage I smelled the fuel and shut it down, disconnected the battery & cleaned up.
But not risking leaving rusted 25 year old lines in the car. I also want to take this car to Europe etc so nothing left to chance.
RaceDiagnostics
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Mine are now 44 years old but as I said, it was just the ends that were corroded. I had planned to replace with new from MB till I discovered that they supply the new steel pipes in a coil that would be virtually impossible to match the correct tricky shape.
Before.
After.
JOEPRO
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Wow that's fantastic work
Very very nice. What coating is that on the underbody? Or is that the original painted blue body colour? W126 yeah?
Yes your lines look good now. I just don't like leaving my rusted ones to chance. Knowing my luck they will rupture when 100s of miles from home!
I am also a MB nut and have done nut and bolt restos on them. It's a disease at this stage
Here is a model you may recognise from the engine bay
RaceDiagnostics
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I took the underside back to bare metal, scuffed it with 60 grit to try to key it then brushed on jotamastic epoxy, next I sprayed on a rubberised stone chip and finally brushed on 2k solid. The car is actually a metallic blue, the underside is close but not that close, I wanted it to be easy to keep clean. I'll dig out the link to a discussion on the rubberised stone chip.
I've spent quite a bit of time on this car.
I've spent quite a bit of time on this car.
RaceDiagnostics
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It was Dinitrol 447 I used, here is the thread.
Thick rubber underseal
Does anyone one know where you can get this stuff. I don't want anything with bitumen in as it is just a pita if you need to remove it. Looks like this on my 107.
www.mig-welding.co.uk
JOEPRO
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I do have a brake pipe straightener tool which I use on small brake pipes. But have to just eyeball on the 8mm unless there is a better way?
I do have OCD so will probably spend too much time trying to make it perfect but what do you do
By the time I have these 3x lines made and finished I'll be an expert on it.This photo shows the condition of the existing lines
Shox Dr
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Old skool is to Roll in between two planks of wood
graffian
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I straighten brake pipe with a couple of bits of wood bolted together with a hinge, it works great and is usable under a car.
it needs to work under a car as you stuff a pipe around a few obsticals and it needs re-straighening. Straight pipe the length
of a floor pan, no problem.
5/16" tube is much harder to bend.
I had a bit of wood with a 5/16" hole, and I hoped I could spin the wood round the
tube and straighten it. I was either being stupid or dreaming.
When the wood split I stuck a clamp on it and it actually works sortof.
I am only doing motorbike oil pipes and the pipe lenghts are not very long.
It must be much worse with cars?
it needs to work under a car as you stuff a pipe around a few obsticals and it needs re-straighening. Straight pipe the length
of a floor pan, no problem.
5/16" tube is much harder to bend.
I had a bit of wood with a 5/16" hole, and I hoped I could spin the wood round the
tube and straighten it. I was either being stupid or dreaming.
When the wood split I stuck a clamp on it and it actually works sortof.
I am only doing motorbike oil pipes and the pipe lenghts are not very long.
It must be much worse with cars?
dan.taylor.1
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For some reason I have it in my head that the rollers need to be offset rather than inline,
O O O O
..O O O O
Like that so the pipe goes between 3 rollers rather than just a pair?
O O O O
..O O O O
Like that so the pipe goes between 3 rollers rather than just a pair?
