push button stop/start single phase motor

[smashweld]

No but the coil voltage is likely 400v

ok...question...A1 and A2 is live and neutral on 'modern' contactors, there's only the 3 phases (and earth) in the original contactor coming in, still 2 connections to the coil

basic answer will prob help with what to research...

@daleyd that's just a pic of the original contactor that was used before someone fitted a single phase motor

 

[brightspark]

uhavent a contactor

ok...question...A1 and A2 is live and neutral on 'modern' contactors, there's only the 3 phases (and earth) in the original contactor coming in, still 2 connections to the coil

basic answer will prob help with what to research...

@daleyd that's just a pic of the original contactor that was used before someone fitted a single phase motor

yes the coil is taken of 2 of the phases 415 volt coil

 

[Brad93]

If you use your own switches and contactors the world is your oyster. You can get as fancy as you want with individual red/green buttons, combined buttons like these, lights, etc etc.

I built this to replace some right dodgy wiring on one of my customers machines. Using the schneider buttons like this simplified everything.

 

[Barking Mat]

@500e , here.

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/starters.128153/

@smashweld it's your lucky day.

 

[daleyd]

I might have an overload suitable for that size motor, I’ll check tomorrow

 

[Alan Reynolds]

It is, but I was assuming from the post that the op had either some arrangement that warranted separate switches (eg the contactor sites away from the switches) or some bits he could utilise - but looking at the picture of the contactor then probably be as well buying a ready made dol starter.

That’s the joy of a bit of brainstorming. I post questions because I know that someone, somewhere on here will probably come up with a gem of an idea or solution!

 

[daleyd]

@smashweld if you are using your own contactor and switches to make your own starter I have one of these overloads if you want it, should be suitable for your motor as it goes to 12amps.

 

[smashweld]

cheers @daleyd not sure on exactly what to buy yet but that should work fine

uhavent a contactor

yes the coil is taken of 2 of the phases 415 volt coil

understand on a 240v coil it's live and neutral but what are the 2 connections to the coil on the old 415 contactor coil? 2 of the phases in series, and the other neutral?

 

[daleyd]

cheers @daleyd not sure on exactly what to buy yet but that should work fine




understand on a 240v coil it's live and neutral but what are the 2 connections to the coil on the old 415 contactor coil? 2 of the phases in series, and the other neutral?

For a 3 phase motor there’s no neutral - the original contactor would pass 3 phases directly through the contacts when energised, with the coil being supplied by 2 of the phases (hence it being a 415 volt coil, the 2 phases are 415 volts apart) - 1 phase on one side and the other phase the opposite end of the coil.

With your new arrangement you will need a contactor with a 230v coil, supplied by your single phase and neutral. The contactor will pass the single phase and the neutral through the contacts when energised.

 

[Erie Fred]

If your going to the trouble of wiring up a nice panel, how about a reversing switch as well ?

 

[Turbo]

Just to cofuse you further, if you are using a 3 pole contactor/overload/DOL starter you should use all 3 poles for the overload to operate properly.

 

[smashweld]

I went el cheapo and bought a Heschen contactor and Sweideer! push buttons with LED lights (red NC and green NO) from Amazon

assuming wiring is like the pic below - wiring the red light between 13 and 14, and green between A1 and A2 'works' so that red shows there's power/motor stopped and green shows it's running

I doubt it's the proper way, does the coil take so much power/light so little the reason the the red light works the way it does?

thoughts?

 

[Dave-sparks]

I doubt it's the proper way, does the coil take so much power/light so little the reason the the red light works the way it does?

The LEDs will have something in them to limit the current and this limited current isn't enough to fully energise the coil and pull the contactor in so it doesn't start the motor in normal conditions.

Definately not the proper way as if the red light was to fail short circuit then it will latch the contactor on permanently (unless the stop button is held in or the overload trips)

It would be much better to get a N/C auxilliary contact for the contactor and use that to switch the red LED. These are normally just a clip on device fitted to the front or side of the contactor and probably cost pennies.


There is also a slim chance that with variations in temperature or voltage fluctuations the red LED might just cause the coil to energise and start the motor randomly at other times.

 

[smashweld]

wouldn't have thought of any of that tbh, thanks!

 

[Turbo]

I'd put the red between L1 & N mains connection and the green between the 2 output wires going to the motor.

 

[daleyd]

Have you got a picture of the contactor? There may be spare contacts unused already that are not shown on drawing (unlikely but you never know) that you could use.

 

[smashweld]

it's this one...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Heschen-Contactor-CJX2-2510-220V-Normally/dp/B07MCX4TP9/ref=pd_ci_mcx_mh_ci_mcx_mr_mp_m_3?pd_rd_w=udu4V&content-id=amzn1.sym.28313fad-16ab-47c0-bfc2-6c61aa1ecc77&pf_rd_p=28313fad-16ab-47c0-bfc2-6c61aa1ecc77&pf_rd_r=JPRMM0QBY4H5JYTDZEC7&pd_rd_wg=sT7M8&pd_rd_r=6b009ded-c9f9-42aa-a504-800673a4af90&pd_rd_i=B07MCX4TP9

is there a standard for aux contactor blocks? I see there's front and side mounted,, do they differ depending on manufacturer, size etc?

 

[Dave-sparks]

is there a standard for aux contactor blocks? I see there's front and side mounted,, do they differ depending on manufacturer, size etc?

They are unique to each manufacturer,

 

[daleyd]

Manufacturer specific, if your lucky you might find some from the place you got the contactor from, or if it's a knock off of a branded manufacturer type then that type might fit, but it's a lottery if it does.

Looking at the picture there is no spare contacts so out of luck on that front too. Might be worth trying as Turbo said above, another way would be to remove the wire between 4(contactor)&3(overload) and place the wire going to 3(contactor) into 3(overload). That gives you a spare contact free to play with on the contactor (I'd double check what I said works because I've only briefly glanced at it !). Edit - that only works if they are separate units, if they connect directly one into the other then you can't do that.

Depends how desperate you are to get the lights working!

 

[smashweld]

Depends how desperate you are to get the lights working!

It doesn't really matter but may as well now I have them

Found this....stated 'works with CJX2 contactor' , googling CJX2 shows lots of brands/rebranded CJX2 contactors, so hopefully works

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07R498PNP?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

It has electric shock mode!